tapping noise from top of engine After timing belt was replaced

Hi- I need help! DESPERATELY! I own a 2001 Kia sportage- base model- 2.0L- 4 cyl- DOHC engine. about 98k miles on it and some what mechanically inclined.
Purchased it used- Changed the oil- replaced the thermostat. I was driving and the engine stopped- NO noise when it stopped and I figured it was the timing belt- had it towed to a local garage. There was about 4 -6 teeth missing. They replaced the belt and said it started right up- nice and quiet- ran for a little bit(no clue how long they ran it) BUT… I go to pick it up and starts up- but I notice alittle tapping noise- I go in- ask the shop- they said she was quiet- ok- maybe it was because it was cold. I drove to the bank(aprox 10 miles) the noise got LOUDER- you could hear the belt slipping or spinning… my poor little kia sounds like a “generator or sewing machine”. People look @ me like I have NO oil in it. The oil and temp is fine- I took it back to the shop and they said the timing is “FINE”- they took off the head- there is enough “clearance” and Nothing is touching- they are stumped(not great mechanics- but NOW I find out..ughh). What could cause the engine NOW after running quiet to sound like this? Is this an interference engine? did I do damage to it? OH- they did tell me- when they turn the crank shaft by hand- you can hear the noise!? HELP! I live in the country and a single mom with little $$$ and an active son in sports and scouts- I NEED MY CAR:( and really like the gas mileage… HELP- almost 2 wks with NO car!!!

Response:
Yes, this is an interference engine. The most common cause of this noise after a broken timing belt would be bent valves. A simple compression test on each cylinder should be able to determine which cylinder/s have the bent valve/s. Onec the located, simply replacing the valves should correct the issue and remove the noise.

TSB 2009 Caravan/Town and Country Squeak at Low Speed Maneuvers and Over Bumps

Subject: Squeak at Low Speed Maneuvers and Over Bumps

Vehicle Involved: 2009 Caravan/Town and Country. This bulletin applies to vehicles built before February 9, 2009

Condition: Some sway bars may be rubbing against the heat shield during low speed maneuvers and over bumps.

Repair Procedure: This bulletin involves removing, modifying and re-installing the power steering gear heat shield.

Inspect the heat shield to sway bar clearance, if there is rubbing between the sway bar and the heat shield, perform the repair procedure.

1. Raise the vehicle
2. Remove the power steering gear heat shield.
3. Remove the two bolts and clips that retain the heat shield to the vehicle.
4. Cut the heat shield along the line indicated in (Fig. 1).
5. Install the power steering gear heat shield. When installing the push pins replace them with new pins
6. Lower the vehicle

2005 Honda CR-V vibration on sharp turns

Customer complained about a noise and or shuttering when turning into a tight parking spot. The shudder is there everytime but only on sharp turns at slow speeds. The CR-V only has 52,000 miles on it.

SHop:
test drove and could duplicate the exact issue as described by the customer. Pulled into shop and put up on rack for further inspection. The vibration is in fact coming from the rear differential. With the engine off and holding one tire still and turning the other tire slowly you can reproduce the vibration and watch the rear differential jump around.

All research points to changing the differential fluid and Making certain to use Honda Dual Pump Fluid Only! According to the operaters manual the differential fluid is due to be changed at 60,000 miles. Unit holds 1.3 qts of fluid.

FIX:
Drained and replaced fluid with Honda Dual Pump Fluid II, that I got at my local auto parts store, and test Drove. Problem solved.

Chevy Venture noise from the engine

I have a 2001 Chevy Venture with 140K miles on it and over the past two months, I've noticed a medium pitch "turbine" type noise from the engine. This only occurs after I've been driving the car for about 10 miles. The pitch of the noise changes with the engine rpms, not the vehicle's speed. So if i take my foot off the gas, the noise goes away. But as I rev the engine higher, the pitch gets higher though the pitch is never very high. The noise does seem to be getting louder over time.

I bought this car used about 4 years ago and since I bought it, i've had the head gasket replaced because of a coolant leak and the AC system replaced, the bearings replaced and the brakes replaced.

Recently, I noticed that the car overheats at idle and there wasn't any obvious leak but the radiator was low while the resevoir was full. I changed the radiator cap and that seemed to fix that problem.

I was hoping that would fix the noise but it did not. I was thinking that maybe the water pump was making the noise since the pump is connected to the engine via the serpentine belt and engine rpms would affect the pump. I dont see any leaks at the pump and it seems to be spinning fine and when its at idle i can't localise the noise.

Anyone have any ideas?

Response:

It may be that your power steering pump resivior is low on fluid. Would be the first thing I would check. If all your fluids are good, then I would remove the belt to make certain the noise wasn't internal in the engine.

It is possible for it to be the water pump, but not as likely as it would be the power steering or the alternater going out. In my shop I use a stethescope(sp) type devise to listen in close for noises, the old timers used to use a long screw driver and touch it to part of the engine and the other to their ear..... some use a piece of garden hose.... you an try those at your own risk....

What is that squealing noise?

Driving a 96 Nissan Quest minivan.

In the last week a new problem has cropped up. I leave for work around 6:30 in the morning so most of my neighbors are still asleep. I hate to make a lot of noise, but my car isn't cooperating.

I pull out of the driveway and as I turn onto the street there comes a horrendously loud squealing noise from under the hood. I've heard other cars that do this and just shook my head. Now it is happening to me.

I don't know much about cars, so I really don't know what is causing it to make this super loud, high pitched noise. It only lasts about 15 seconds, thank God. But that sure seems like about 15 seconds too long when I'm in the car at 6:30 in the morning.

I'm thinking it could be something to do with the power steering. Or maybe it is a v-belt squealing. All I know for sure is I need to fix it asap, or my neighbors will probably lynch me.

Any ideas what it could be?

Response:
it is most likely your belt for a temporary fix you can spray lubricate on your belt but sooner or later The Belt will need to be replaced. i had a van that did the same thing and this is what i did.

Baffled on 08 Chevy harmonic balancer noise!

I have a problem with a '08 chevy Silverado pickup,80,000 miles,with a 5.3L Vortec V-8 engine. It has a chirping noise coming from the front end of the engine that continues even after removing both drive belts. It is coming from the harmonic balancer OR possibly something else behind it,toward the engine block.
I closely inspected the balancer for rubber ring cracks/breakage as well as for any movement/slack. I didn't see any rubber deterioration or detect ANY side to side/up or down movement.
The harmonic balancer center bolt was also very tight and it has no apparent wobble, it appears to be physically correct.
I would appreciate any info. or knowledge of this engine harmonic balancer. I did an online TSB search and there is none pertaining to the engine harmonic balancer.
I am baffled at this point as to how the balancer could be causing this chirping noise w/o drive belts???

Response:
1) Sounds like a bad bearing to me. I have worked as a machine builder in the past and have seen bearing do this. Sometimes it is caused by poor lubrication and sometimes the bearing just go bad due to defects in the bearing itself or improper installation of the bearing. If it is the bearing it will only get worse.

1996 lincoln town car (help)

well the car has 118 thou on it. The rear end air bags where replaced with springs and struts but the check air suspension light stays on, washer fluid light came on and shorty after every once in a while a buzzing noise comes from under the dash. some where usually when i let off the gas peddle.  i was thinking it was becouse i needed to replace the washer fluid so i did and it stopped but outta the blue a couple hours later its doing it again and honestly its driving me crazy.  Any advice would be great. annoying ringing sound coming from under the dash sounds like a ringing the ear but louder, goes away when i accelerate this is driving nuts please help...

Response:
1) Sounds like a relay. Find it while it's making the noise and you will find a part nimber on it. Go to your local parts store and have them cross reference it or go to the dealership to find out what it controls.

2) What you are describing sounds like a vacuum leak. Check your heater control harness where it cinnects.

squeaks terribly when driven with most of the noise coming from the front

I have a 200 Eddie Bauer Expedition. It squeaks terribly when driven with most of the noise coming from the front. It sounds like an old spring mattress. It makes the noise when going straight or turning. I think the power steering might also be making some noise as well, but it is hard to tell

Answer:

More than likely your squeak noise is coming form the lower ball joints. This is a common failure part for the ford trucks/suv's. Have both replaced and the noise should no longer be an issue. With the vehicle parked, you can push up on the door frame in order to get the vehicle rocking and the noise will occur. This is a clear sign of the lower ball joint failing.

If the noise changed when turning I would say it might be a Hub Bearing

99 olds alero is shuttering when the brakes are applied

99 olds alero is shuttering when the brakes are applied. I have replaced rotors and pads and still shakes. It does have a broken wheel stud on one of the front wheels. Also has 147,000 miles. Would wheel hubs need replacing?

Answer:

There may be an issue with the hub bearings. There are two ways to check a hub bearing. One is to swerve a bit left than right while driving about 15-25 mph and listen for a whirring noise and the noise will change pitch as you swerve. For hub bearings that are in worse shape, Simply jack up the front end and grab hold of the tire and try to wiggle it top to bottom, any play or movement at all is from a failed hub bearing. Another thing that can cause this is a bad spot on a tire. Rotating the front tires to the back and test driving it should let you know if this is the case. One missing wheel stud will not cause an issue.

when I am driving or sometimes start the car I hear metalic clicking.

CV Half Shaft

when I am driving or sometimes start the car I hear metallic clicking. It doesn't happen all the time but mostly when I accelerate. It coming from the left side when I am driving and it sounds like its coming from the tire area. Would you point me in the right direction. Answer: It will be a worn cv shaft joint. You can probably hear it under sharp turns.

the transfer case was hummimg and has gotten very loud

I own a 1996 6 cyl Jeep Grand Cherokee 4X4, it has just over 200 thousand miles on it, the transfer case was humming and has gotten very loud. How many different things can be wrong in a transfer case and should I just try to find an entire transfer case(used) to replace it or could it be something simple and cheap(LOL) that I could check first?

Answer:

A loud transfer case humm is in most cases is a bad bearing. First thing to do is a transfer case service drain the fluid and check color. Also check the magnet for bearing shavings.If this is a bad bearing the transfer case will need to be taken apart and reared.

Auto Repair Made Simple - Basic Diagnostic Techniques

1. Start off by determining what it is you need to repair Noise : what does it sound like to you and where is it coming from Electrical : Something electrical has quit working (ex. Windows, lights, radio) Light on Dash : Check engine light, brake light, low coolant light, battery light No Start : just clicks, cranks over but won't start, no dash lights, repeated clicks No Power : when you press the gas the engine revs high but won't move or slow Brakes : The car doesn't seem to stop as normal, brake pedal feels spongy Air Conditioning : Blows hot, doesn't blow at all, blows cold out one side only Tires : Flat tire, worn uneven, alignment, leaking air slowly Parts : where can i get auto repair parts online for my car or truck Smell : Sweet smell, fuel smell, burning smell, rotten egg smell 2. Now that you have figured out what the issue is you need to repair, you can MORE Auto Repair Resources No Start Diagnostic Chart Alternator Repair and Testing Engine Overheating Diagnostics Engine Control Sensor Testing Electrical Wiring Problems Electrical Testing With a Multi-meter Air Conditioning Troubleshooting Brake Repair Diagnostics and Repair Check Engine Light Trouble Codes Checking Your Fluid Levels Fuel System Diagnostics

1996 Chrysler Town & Country started making a noise after I hit a pothole

My 1996 Chrysler Town & Country started making a noise after I hit a pothole and thought my tire was flat. Tires are fine, but they still make a small thud noise. There is no real noise when I accelerate, however, as soon as I take my foot off the gas, it makes a very loud growling sound like sticking something metal in a fan blade would sound. Thought is was CV joints, but everything I'm reading says the noise happens when you accelerate, not when you stop accelerating. What do you think?

Answer:

That sounds like your exhaust is hitting the frame. When the car decelerates the motor tilts back, the can cause the exhaust to rub or bad against the frame or car. There are rubber hangers that are supposed to prevent this from happening, but they tend to wear out. I would check all the hanger of the exhaust as well as the transmission mount and motor mounts. All these are rubber and known to go bad, which would cause noise while decelerating.

Blower Motor is rubbing and vibrating the whole dash board

Question:

I have a 2003 Chevy Impala and the blower motor is rubbing on something and it vibrates the whole dashboard bad can i fix this and how?

Answer:

You can fix it by replacing it with a new one, but make sure the one that is already in there has all the retaining screws (no empty holes). I have added the replacement procedures below. Heater System Blower Motor Removal & Installation

To Remove: 1) Remove the insulator from under the right side of the dash. 2) Disconnect the electrical connector from the blower motor. 3) Remove the blower motor retaining screws. 4) Remove the blower motor.

To Install: 1) Install the blower motor. 2) Install the blower motor mounting screws. 3) Connect the electrical connector to the blower motor. 4) Install the under dash insulator.

2006 Chevy Silverado - Rattle in steering column

Question:

I have a 2006 Chevy Silverado and I have a ratling noise in the steering column. It only has 13,000 miles on it.You do not have to hit a bump to get it to rattle. It has not been wrecked. What could this be?

ANSWER:

There is a TSB on this that refers to the steering shaft as the cause of the problem. There is a new design that needs to be installed and should be covered under your warranty.

TSB #000235003N -- CLUNKING NOISE UNDER HOOD AND CAN BE FELT IN STEERING WHEEL AND/OR STEERING COLUMN (REPLACE UPPER INTERMEDIATE STEERING SHAFT [I-SHAFT] ASSEMBLY). *PE (NHTSA ID #10025148, APRIL 01 2008)

2004 Suzuki Forenza and recently I have heard a knocking sound

QUESTION: I have a 2004 Suzuki Forenza and recently I have heard a knocking sound that increases as i accelerate, do I have a rod knock or could it hopefully be something else? ANSWER: What you have described is a classic description of a rod knocking. The engine is done. Its time to replace or rebuild it. If you choose to have it replaced, I recommend Jasper Engines as they come with a 3 yr/100,000 mile parts and LABOR nationwide warranty. This means if there is a problem you pay nothing. If you have a junk yard engine out in and there is a problem, you will have to pay the labor again.

wierd wawawa..sound coming from back tires

QUESTION:

weird wawawa..sound coming from back tires,had to get it tagged and licensed, it passed the safety inspection .and only I hear it!the guy that safety inspected it said, the only thing he could think of would be the tires .wearing unevenly?Got those at Big O and they overcharged me,afraid to take it there anymore>>1985 Mazda 626

ANSWER:

The best way to check to see if it is the tires would be to move the rear tires to the front and see if the noise follows. If it does, you may be able to have the tires replaced under warranty if they are fairly new.

My car is making a loud tapping noise when I start it

Question: 2004 Chevrolet Impala 3.4 : My car is making a loud tapping noise when I start it, but it fades as the car runs. I've been told I have bleeding lifters and there's nothing I can do out side of changing the lifters and it's no guarantee it won't happen again. What are my options can I buy something to add to my oil to stop this? Changed the oil every 20,000 miles. ANSWER: You can try an additive that is called "lifter quite". What it does is clean the passage ways so the oil can get through easier and it cleans what may be letting the lifters bleed down. This may be called something else where you live but if you ask your local auto parts store I'm sure they can get you something like this. In the future I recommend changing your oil every 3,000 miles on all your vehicles. This will be the cheapest money you ever spend on your engine.

Chevrolet Silverado - clicking noise coming from the passenger side vent.

Question: 1994 Chevrolet Silverado (5.7 Liter) 258,000 miles...runs awesome, but I have a clicking noise coming from the passenger side vent. My thought is that it must be a limit switch that could possibly be connected to the damper door. The clicking occurs when placing the ignition into the position prior to starting and then again when turning the ignition off. The clicking last approx. 15-20 seconds. While running the AC and switching to the max the clicking also occurs. Answer; This is an electronic Actuator, usually for the Hot/Cold Blend Door. The gears are stripped out so it makes the clicking noise because it is trying to return to its start position and can't as it is stripped. Have the Actuator replaced and the noise will be gone. You can keep diving it this way without fear of causing further damage.

Toyota Prius Hybrid Brake Noise 2004-07

Some 2004-07 Toyota Prius hybrids may produce an annoying squeaking sound when the brake pedal is applied or released. Toyota says the noise is most audible when the key is in the Ready mode with the vehicle not moving. It seems that a defective brake actuator assembly is the likely culprit.

Before condemning the actuator, however, try bleeding the brake system. If the noise goes away, you’re done with the fix. If the noise remains after getting out that last belch of air, replace the brake actuator with an upgraded unit, Part No. 44500-47090.