My Toyota camry has had the check engine light on for some time. I finally took it and had the codes pulled and was told it was code p0136 and that I needed a new Oxygen Senser. Which one do I need to replace?
Code P0136 - o2 Sensor circuit malfunction B1 S1.
This means the downstream o2 sensor has an issue and is not sending a signal to the computer. The Downstream o2 sensor is located after the catalytic converter assembly in the exhaust pipe.
The Fix: Replace the failed o2 Sensor
Showing posts with label Actual Auto Repair. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Actual Auto Repair. Show all posts
Wednesday, June 15, 2011
Monday, June 06, 2011
Air Conditioning blows warm after driving for a while?
I have a 2005 Subaru Outback, When I first start the car the Air Conditioning Blows Ice Cold. Then After I drive it for about 10 Miles it starts blowing hot. I have had it to two different places and one said the Freon was too full and the other said the Freon was to low. Neither place was correct.
Solution/Fix:
I asked some friends if they new of a good place and was referred to CFS Auto & Tire (a local Springboro Auto Repair Shop). Turns out they specialize in Air Conditioning among other things. The problem was that after the A/C Compressor was run for a while it would get hot and the clutch on the compressor would not engage until it had a chance to cool off. The Mechanic took me back in the shop and showed me that the compressor was still getting power to the compressor but wasn't engaging.
Had new compressor installed and Has been blowing Cold ever since.
Solution/Fix:
I asked some friends if they new of a good place and was referred to CFS Auto & Tire (a local Springboro Auto Repair Shop). Turns out they specialize in Air Conditioning among other things. The problem was that after the A/C Compressor was run for a while it would get hot and the clutch on the compressor would not engage until it had a chance to cool off. The Mechanic took me back in the shop and showed me that the compressor was still getting power to the compressor but wasn't engaging.
Had new compressor installed and Has been blowing Cold ever since.
Thursday, May 12, 2011
Removing harmonic balancer pully need help
Okay here gos our issue, working on a 2000 chrysler cirus, changing out water pump and timing belt. So okay we know how to do that and where it is only problem we have is getting the harmonic balancer pully off to get to it all any suggestions on how or what to do. We have a pully puller, with j hooks. What was susposed to be a day job has turned in to a weeks night mare.
Response:
1) Use a balancer puller
2) The puller needed isn't a Jaw Puller rather it looks like a Peace Sign and has 3 or 4 bolts that go thru it and screw into the balancer where the pully is bolted. Then the center bolt screws down to the crankshaft and is pressed/pulled off. Intallation has a long threaded bolt with a nut and washer that threads into the end of the crankshaft. Tighten the nut and watch as the balancer is pressed on.
3) You can borrow one for free from Auto Zone, give them a deposit & get your deposit back when you return it. I'll bet the guys at Auto Zone will tell you how to use it, not hard to do
Response:
1) Use a balancer puller
2) The puller needed isn't a Jaw Puller rather it looks like a Peace Sign and has 3 or 4 bolts that go thru it and screw into the balancer where the pully is bolted. Then the center bolt screws down to the crankshaft and is pressed/pulled off. Intallation has a long threaded bolt with a nut and washer that threads into the end of the crankshaft. Tighten the nut and watch as the balancer is pressed on.
3) You can borrow one for free from Auto Zone, give them a deposit & get your deposit back when you return it. I'll bet the guys at Auto Zone will tell you how to use it, not hard to do
Friday, April 29, 2011
2003 Olds Silhouette Repair debacle and questions.
We have owned this 2003 Olds Silhouette for the past 2 years. It's by far the best vehicle we've yet owned. Had it from Michigan to Minnesota and back. Husband drives it every day a total of 62 miles. For the most part, we are confident in its reliability. It currently has 158,000 miles on it.
But we figured it was time for some general maintenance, and a repair. We have been hearing a POP noise when we go down an incline like a short, steep driveway. Primarily from the right. My husband thinks he's hearing it on the left now, too. I haven't heard that but definitely have the one on the right. Neither of us are car experts, but we figured ball joints or something similar. (My husband is that most dangerous of people, someone who knows "a little" about cars. He's getting better at admitting he really doesn't know all THAT much about them, really. ;D )
We've also got a bit of a wobbly, shaky ride. We put used but great condition tires on the front prior to the winter. Now, they are quite worn on the outside edges. My husband thinks they look canted to him and thinks we need an alignment. (I don't have the car here to tell you if the tires are more worn on inside, outside or evenly on both, but I think the inside was worn more.)
I took the van to a mechanic yesterday that came highly recommended. I trusted this guy and honestly, still don't think he was in any way trying to cheat me. However, this is what I asked him to do:
Check and top off trans fluid. Flush and fill radiator. Check AC but DO NOT RECHARGE until I know what everything else would cost in case we couldn't afford it after everything else. Change plugs and wires. Diagnose popping noise and do repair. Do an alignment.
The ONE thing I neglected to tell him was about the wobbly drive.
He was instructed to not do ANY repairs/tune-up/charging/etc until he called me with a report on what's causing the popping noise and what it would cost to fix it. We're under pretty tight funds and I needed to make sure the most important things were done and paid for leaving the rest for when we had more money.
I sat in the library all day while waiting to hear from him. Hours went by and I still hadn't, so I called him. He said he couldn't find what's causing the popping noise. Said that it might be something up in the struts, but he didn't think it was something like ball joints, etc. (I forget the exact wording he used, but it was akin to that). He said he'd keep looking, but that he thought the car was in excellent condition and safe to drive. Said he'd call back in an hour.
Well more than an hour went by. At least 2 or more. I called him again. He said he still can't find a problem causing a popping. He also said that we have platinum plugs and wires and that they don't need replacing. When I expressed some surprise and doubt about that, he said if I insist, he can replace them and charge us but that we don't need to.
In retrospect, the previous owner had this under warranty and had it serviced quite often - I wouldn't doubt he put top of the line plugs and wires in it. But my husband insists it's not running as smoothly as it did 2 years ago. He does the oil changes himself, most often well before the automatic "change oil" alert says we need to. And we think we could be getting slightly better gas mileage (we got 25 mpg when we drove it to Minnesota 2 years ago, and now get around 22.3 tops). I don't have them on hand right now, but I'll be double-checking the repair/maintenance records the previous owner supplied to see if there's note of what kind of plugs/wires he had put in.
In any case, the mechanic said he did the fluids and AC, which pissed me off a bit because the popping noise had not been fully diagnosed and I didn't want to put any money into something as unimportant as AC when still faced with possibly pricey repairs, and had VERY plainly told him so when I dropped the car off. I let that go and asked about the alignment. He said, "you want an alignment?" as if I'd never mentioned it (and saw him write it down). I did say I was not sure if an alignment should be done in case whatever's causing the popping noise would cause the car to quickly go out of alignment again. But that the car has a wobbly ride. He had not test driven it himself (had another guy do it) and didn't know about the wobbly ride. I said yes, it's quite obvious when driven, and that the tires are wearing unevenly, too. I told him I had to talk to my husband before he did anything else.
I talked to my husband. At this point, he was pissed and didn't want this guy doing anything else to it. So I called the guy back. He was out test driving the van, so I told the person on the phone to have him call me as soon as he got back.
Over a half hour went by. I called back. He answered the phone. He had been "messing with another car" and didn't call me. At this point, it was getting VERY late in the day and I needed the car back so I could pick up my husband from work. He said he felt the wobbly drive but blamed it on the condition of the tires. I don't doubt that is a big part of the problem at this point. However, the tires wore very quickly and both my husband and I think it's due to a misalignment.
I had a lot of trouble being confrontational with this guy because 1) I don't think he was intentionally blowing off my concerns 2) I trust that he wasn't trying to rip me off 3) I needed him to pick me up from the library and take me back to the shop to get my car, so I was facing a very uncomfortable ride if I at all got testy about things like him charging the AC, etc.
My husband and I are also willing to admit that we're not used to owning a vehicle that needs relatively little service. We're used to having lots of things go wrong with our cars (the 1999 Chevy S-10 was a particular nightmare of dysfunction), and having to dump a lot of work and time into them. We're willing to admit maybe we're not used to being told "the car is fine, it doesn't need pricey repairs done."
At this point, my husband and I agree on a course of action:
1) We're going to get 4 new (used) tires put on the car. We have a total of $1150 we're prepared to put into the car (after the $150 we paid this guy yesterday), and have a reliable tire shop with a set of nearly new tires for about $200 we're going to pursue.
2) Before we do that, we're going to take the car, with the current tires intact, to an already highly recommended alignment shop so they can see the tire wear and test drive it first. We'll tell them about the popping noise and get their opinion. If they don't do the sort of work that might be involved in diagnosing and fixing that, we'll ask for their recommendation on a place to take it.
3) We'll get the tires. And take the car to either the alignment shop or the recommended mechanic to have the popping noise properly diagnosed and repaired, and aligned.
4) We'll check maintenance records about the plugs/wires and ask a 2nd opinion if we still think it's necessary.
I welcome input as to whether we're still on the wrong track with our new plans. It's not usual that we have this kind of money to devote all at once to car maintenance. We need to make sure we keep this van on the road.
But we figured it was time for some general maintenance, and a repair. We have been hearing a POP noise when we go down an incline like a short, steep driveway. Primarily from the right. My husband thinks he's hearing it on the left now, too. I haven't heard that but definitely have the one on the right. Neither of us are car experts, but we figured ball joints or something similar. (My husband is that most dangerous of people, someone who knows "a little" about cars. He's getting better at admitting he really doesn't know all THAT much about them, really. ;D )
We've also got a bit of a wobbly, shaky ride. We put used but great condition tires on the front prior to the winter. Now, they are quite worn on the outside edges. My husband thinks they look canted to him and thinks we need an alignment. (I don't have the car here to tell you if the tires are more worn on inside, outside or evenly on both, but I think the inside was worn more.)
I took the van to a mechanic yesterday that came highly recommended. I trusted this guy and honestly, still don't think he was in any way trying to cheat me. However, this is what I asked him to do:
Check and top off trans fluid. Flush and fill radiator. Check AC but DO NOT RECHARGE until I know what everything else would cost in case we couldn't afford it after everything else. Change plugs and wires. Diagnose popping noise and do repair. Do an alignment.
The ONE thing I neglected to tell him was about the wobbly drive.
He was instructed to not do ANY repairs/tune-up/charging/etc until he called me with a report on what's causing the popping noise and what it would cost to fix it. We're under pretty tight funds and I needed to make sure the most important things were done and paid for leaving the rest for when we had more money.
I sat in the library all day while waiting to hear from him. Hours went by and I still hadn't, so I called him. He said he couldn't find what's causing the popping noise. Said that it might be something up in the struts, but he didn't think it was something like ball joints, etc. (I forget the exact wording he used, but it was akin to that). He said he'd keep looking, but that he thought the car was in excellent condition and safe to drive. Said he'd call back in an hour.
Well more than an hour went by. At least 2 or more. I called him again. He said he still can't find a problem causing a popping. He also said that we have platinum plugs and wires and that they don't need replacing. When I expressed some surprise and doubt about that, he said if I insist, he can replace them and charge us but that we don't need to.
In retrospect, the previous owner had this under warranty and had it serviced quite often - I wouldn't doubt he put top of the line plugs and wires in it. But my husband insists it's not running as smoothly as it did 2 years ago. He does the oil changes himself, most often well before the automatic "change oil" alert says we need to. And we think we could be getting slightly better gas mileage (we got 25 mpg when we drove it to Minnesota 2 years ago, and now get around 22.3 tops). I don't have them on hand right now, but I'll be double-checking the repair/maintenance records the previous owner supplied to see if there's note of what kind of plugs/wires he had put in.
In any case, the mechanic said he did the fluids and AC, which pissed me off a bit because the popping noise had not been fully diagnosed and I didn't want to put any money into something as unimportant as AC when still faced with possibly pricey repairs, and had VERY plainly told him so when I dropped the car off. I let that go and asked about the alignment. He said, "you want an alignment?" as if I'd never mentioned it (and saw him write it down). I did say I was not sure if an alignment should be done in case whatever's causing the popping noise would cause the car to quickly go out of alignment again. But that the car has a wobbly ride. He had not test driven it himself (had another guy do it) and didn't know about the wobbly ride. I said yes, it's quite obvious when driven, and that the tires are wearing unevenly, too. I told him I had to talk to my husband before he did anything else.
I talked to my husband. At this point, he was pissed and didn't want this guy doing anything else to it. So I called the guy back. He was out test driving the van, so I told the person on the phone to have him call me as soon as he got back.
Over a half hour went by. I called back. He answered the phone. He had been "messing with another car" and didn't call me. At this point, it was getting VERY late in the day and I needed the car back so I could pick up my husband from work. He said he felt the wobbly drive but blamed it on the condition of the tires. I don't doubt that is a big part of the problem at this point. However, the tires wore very quickly and both my husband and I think it's due to a misalignment.
I had a lot of trouble being confrontational with this guy because 1) I don't think he was intentionally blowing off my concerns 2) I trust that he wasn't trying to rip me off 3) I needed him to pick me up from the library and take me back to the shop to get my car, so I was facing a very uncomfortable ride if I at all got testy about things like him charging the AC, etc.
My husband and I are also willing to admit that we're not used to owning a vehicle that needs relatively little service. We're used to having lots of things go wrong with our cars (the 1999 Chevy S-10 was a particular nightmare of dysfunction), and having to dump a lot of work and time into them. We're willing to admit maybe we're not used to being told "the car is fine, it doesn't need pricey repairs done."
At this point, my husband and I agree on a course of action:
1) We're going to get 4 new (used) tires put on the car. We have a total of $1150 we're prepared to put into the car (after the $150 we paid this guy yesterday), and have a reliable tire shop with a set of nearly new tires for about $200 we're going to pursue.
2) Before we do that, we're going to take the car, with the current tires intact, to an already highly recommended alignment shop so they can see the tire wear and test drive it first. We'll tell them about the popping noise and get their opinion. If they don't do the sort of work that might be involved in diagnosing and fixing that, we'll ask for their recommendation on a place to take it.
3) We'll get the tires. And take the car to either the alignment shop or the recommended mechanic to have the popping noise properly diagnosed and repaired, and aligned.
4) We'll check maintenance records about the plugs/wires and ask a 2nd opinion if we still think it's necessary.
I welcome input as to whether we're still on the wrong track with our new plans. It's not usual that we have this kind of money to devote all at once to car maintenance. We need to make sure we keep this van on the road.
Monday, March 28, 2011
1999 Ford Tarus Cylinder #3 misfire detected
Customer Complaint:
Check engine light on and flashing. Dead miss when engine running.
Shop Diagnosis:
Computer diagnostics showed code p0303 cylinder #3 Misfire detected.
Tested for spark and fuel injection pulse and both were found.
Performed compression test and found it to be low at only 20psi.
Coolant levels were good and engine oil appeared to be ok.
No white smoke from tail pipe.
Still suspected a blown head gasket as these engine are not prone to cracked heads.
Further Engine Diagnostics:
After removing the head, found the #3 cylinder combustion chamber in the head to be wet looking. After further checking( turn upside down and fill chamber with water) found the exhaust valve not sealing.
Repair:
Removed exhaust valve($15.00) and found it to be bent.
Replaced with new valve.
Reassembled and tested operation... No more misfire and customer is happy.
Check engine light on and flashing. Dead miss when engine running.
Shop Diagnosis:
Computer diagnostics showed code p0303 cylinder #3 Misfire detected.
Tested for spark and fuel injection pulse and both were found.
Performed compression test and found it to be low at only 20psi.
Coolant levels were good and engine oil appeared to be ok.
No white smoke from tail pipe.
Still suspected a blown head gasket as these engine are not prone to cracked heads.
Further Engine Diagnostics:
After removing the head, found the #3 cylinder combustion chamber in the head to be wet looking. After further checking( turn upside down and fill chamber with water) found the exhaust valve not sealing.
Repair:
Removed exhaust valve($15.00) and found it to be bent.
Replaced with new valve.
Reassembled and tested operation... No more misfire and customer is happy.
Wednesday, January 26, 2011
2005 Honda CR-V vibration on sharp turns
Customer complained about a noise and or shuttering when turning into a tight parking spot. The shudder is there everytime but only on sharp turns at slow speeds. The CR-V only has 52,000 miles on it.
SHop:
test drove and could duplicate the exact issue as described by the customer. Pulled into shop and put up on rack for further inspection. The vibration is in fact coming from the rear differential. With the engine off and holding one tire still and turning the other tire slowly you can reproduce the vibration and watch the rear differential jump around.
All research points to changing the differential fluid and Making certain to use Honda Dual Pump Fluid Only! According to the operaters manual the differential fluid is due to be changed at 60,000 miles. Unit holds 1.3 qts of fluid.
FIX:
Drained and replaced fluid with Honda Dual Pump Fluid II, that I got at my local auto parts store, and test Drove. Problem solved.
SHop:
test drove and could duplicate the exact issue as described by the customer. Pulled into shop and put up on rack for further inspection. The vibration is in fact coming from the rear differential. With the engine off and holding one tire still and turning the other tire slowly you can reproduce the vibration and watch the rear differential jump around.
All research points to changing the differential fluid and Making certain to use Honda Dual Pump Fluid Only! According to the operaters manual the differential fluid is due to be changed at 60,000 miles. Unit holds 1.3 qts of fluid.
FIX:
Drained and replaced fluid with Honda Dual Pump Fluid II, that I got at my local auto parts store, and test Drove. Problem solved.
Wednesday, August 04, 2010
1989 ford ranger sending unit help
1989 Ford Ranger 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic
I need a new FUEL SENDING UNIT but when I talked to a local auto supplier they asked if the sending unit was on the passenger or driver side. Is there anyway I can tell which sending unit I need to purchase without dropping the fuel tank?
Apparently, the sending unit for the “drivers side” is twice the price of the passenger side but when I searched EBAY to purchase a sending unit it never indicated whether it was for the drivers or passenger side.
Response:
A fuel Sending unit is in the gas tank and sends an electrical signal to the fuel gauge on the dash to display how much fuel you have left.
A fuel Pump sends fuel to the fuel rail. On this vehicle it has 2 fuel pumps. One low pressure pump located in the gas tank mounted to the fuel sending unit. And One high pressure pump located on the frame rail of the truck.
So you will need to attach a fuel pressure gauge to the the fuel rail test port and test the pressure. It needs to be 30 psi. If all you see is 20 psi or less, you need to replace the READ ENTIRE ARTICLE
I need a new FUEL SENDING UNIT but when I talked to a local auto supplier they asked if the sending unit was on the passenger or driver side. Is there anyway I can tell which sending unit I need to purchase without dropping the fuel tank?
Apparently, the sending unit for the “drivers side” is twice the price of the passenger side but when I searched EBAY to purchase a sending unit it never indicated whether it was for the drivers or passenger side.
Response:
A fuel Sending unit is in the gas tank and sends an electrical signal to the fuel gauge on the dash to display how much fuel you have left.
A fuel Pump sends fuel to the fuel rail. On this vehicle it has 2 fuel pumps. One low pressure pump located in the gas tank mounted to the fuel sending unit. And One high pressure pump located on the frame rail of the truck.
So you will need to attach a fuel pressure gauge to the the fuel rail test port and test the pressure. It needs to be 30 psi. If all you see is 20 psi or less, you need to replace the READ ENTIRE ARTICLE
Thursday, May 27, 2010
2005 Toyota Tundra SR5 Estimate for Repairs
rack and pinion assembly, Rack Mount Bushings, Left & Right outer tie rod, and Left & Right upper control arm bushings. I need an estimate please.
I would definitely like to know how long each should take and if any of the time gets cut out because of another part of the repair. Just wanting to know if I'm getting hosed. (we are in the military and are over seas and we are told to be careful of the locals over charging us Thanks!)
Response:
rack and pinion assembly, Rack Mount Bushings, Left & Right outer tie rod, and Left & Right upper control arm bushings
I would definitely like to know how long each should take and if any of the time gets cut out because of another part of the repair.
The cost of replacing the Steering Rack is aout $1200.00 including both outer tie rod ends. Tie rod ends by them selves would be about $250- $300. The control arm bushings run about $145.00 per side so about $290 for both. So the entire service would run about $1490.00 Plus (shop add ons) plus tax. Some shops do not have ad ons, but most do... like shop supplies, etc. Be sure to ask up front so you are not supprised.
Reply:
Thanks! Actually, come to find out they were trying to screw us. Went to another shop and it was only the tie rod bushing (i think that's what he called it). It was a thick gasket looking thing in the center of the tie rods and it was just starting to get a little worn so there was very slight play. Cost us $132 for the repair, part, and an alignment. Thanks for the info anyways, but I'm Glad I didn't need it!
V/R
Gena
I would definitely like to know how long each should take and if any of the time gets cut out because of another part of the repair. Just wanting to know if I'm getting hosed. (we are in the military and are over seas and we are told to be careful of the locals over charging us Thanks!)
Response:
rack and pinion assembly, Rack Mount Bushings, Left & Right outer tie rod, and Left & Right upper control arm bushings
I would definitely like to know how long each should take and if any of the time gets cut out because of another part of the repair.
The cost of replacing the Steering Rack is aout $1200.00 including both outer tie rod ends. Tie rod ends by them selves would be about $250- $300. The control arm bushings run about $145.00 per side so about $290 for both. So the entire service would run about $1490.00 Plus (shop add ons) plus tax. Some shops do not have ad ons, but most do... like shop supplies, etc. Be sure to ask up front so you are not supprised.
Reply:
Thanks! Actually, come to find out they were trying to screw us. Went to another shop and it was only the tie rod bushing (i think that's what he called it). It was a thick gasket looking thing in the center of the tie rods and it was just starting to get a little worn so there was very slight play. Cost us $132 for the repair, part, and an alignment. Thanks for the info anyways, but I'm Glad I didn't need it!
V/R
Gena
Friday, March 19, 2010
2006 Chevy 3500 High RPM Engine Code P0507
Customers Vehicle: 2006 Chevy G3500 Express (Box Truck)
Engine Size: 6.0L
Complaint: High Engine RPM and Check Engine Light On
Previous Work: New Map Sensor, TPS and Both Upstream O2 Sensors
Problem: Engine is idling at 3,300 rpm and will not idle down
Shop Work Performed:
1) Computer Diagnostics and Scan for Codes
Code P0507 - Idle Air Control System RPM Higher Than Expected
Possible causes:
A vacuum leak : Leaking air intake after the throttle body, EGR valve leaking vacuum, A faulty positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve
Damaged/failed/dirty throttle body
Failed EVAP system
Failed IAC (idle air controller) or faulty IAC circuit
We used Brake Wash (flammable) to spray around potential vacuum leak areas and came up empty. We hooked up a smoke machine to confirm there were no vacuum leaks and test was positive for no vacuum leaks.
We removed the throttle body and inspected and found an extremely clean throttle body. While it was of we cycled the key and watched the IAC valve to see if it was stuck. It looked like it wasn't moving as it should... but did move some. With our Scan tool attached, we could see the IAC circuit was not functioning as it should.
THE PROBLEM FOUND AND FIXED
We then Isolated the IAC wiring from the IAC valve and the pcm and checked continuity and found two wires had none going and if we wiggled the harness, sometimes it would. We found the two wires had broken inside less than an inch form the plug in at the IAC valve, We repaired the wiring by soldering them and tested. FIXED!!! Runs great and customer is happy....
Engine Size: 6.0L
Complaint: High Engine RPM and Check Engine Light On
Previous Work: New Map Sensor, TPS and Both Upstream O2 Sensors
Problem: Engine is idling at 3,300 rpm and will not idle down
Shop Work Performed:
1) Computer Diagnostics and Scan for Codes
Code P0507 - Idle Air Control System RPM Higher Than Expected
Possible causes:
A vacuum leak : Leaking air intake after the throttle body, EGR valve leaking vacuum, A faulty positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve
Damaged/failed/dirty throttle body
Failed EVAP system
Failed IAC (idle air controller) or faulty IAC circuit
We used Brake Wash (flammable) to spray around potential vacuum leak areas and came up empty. We hooked up a smoke machine to confirm there were no vacuum leaks and test was positive for no vacuum leaks.
We removed the throttle body and inspected and found an extremely clean throttle body. While it was of we cycled the key and watched the IAC valve to see if it was stuck. It looked like it wasn't moving as it should... but did move some. With our Scan tool attached, we could see the IAC circuit was not functioning as it should.
THE PROBLEM FOUND AND FIXED
We then Isolated the IAC wiring from the IAC valve and the pcm and checked continuity and found two wires had none going and if we wiggled the harness, sometimes it would. We found the two wires had broken inside less than an inch form the plug in at the IAC valve, We repaired the wiring by soldering them and tested. FIXED!!! Runs great and customer is happy....
Wednesday, September 23, 2009
1994 Chevy S-10 Died while driving and won't start
Answer:
The 2.2L engine has a common problem with failing timing chain tensioners that break and cause the timing chain to jump at at once. this throws off the valve timing and causes no compression. In most cases you can just install a new timing chain and tensioner and problem solved. In some cases not only does the chain and tensioner need to be replaced but the valves can sometimes get bent, usually the exhaust valves. So after you replace the timing chain and tensioner perform a compression test, if no compression is found, you can be sure the next step is removing the head to see how many valves need to be replaced. Don't forget to replace the head bolts at the same time as they are one time use only bolts.
Tuesday, April 28, 2009
Engine fans not comming on. Overheating Ford Focus
I had problem with my cooling system. After I traced out, I found out that my cooling fan is not working properly. At first, I thought it didn't work at all. But after testing the relay, it is in fact, working. So I went to the Temp Sensor, thinking it has to be the problem. But the Auto Shop was unable to even locate the sensor, they really sucks. However, now I just notice it wasn't even the sensor's fault. The cooling fan will only turn on when the AC is on. And it will turn off as well. That indicates that the sensor gotta be working; if not the fan should either stay on or off the whole time/ it shouldn't cycle if it is not working. I am not really a electrical guy. Can any of you guys tell me where the problem is? I am suspecting the electrical wirings between the cooling system and the ac system are theultimate blame. Am I right?
Answer:
I have good news for you. The problem you describe, and in EXACTLY the way you've described it, sounds like your cooling fan blower resistor has burned out. This is NOT to be confused with your car's climate control blower resistor pertaining to the four speed settings. What is probably happening is you are not getting any LOW speed cooling fan operation, when commanded by the PCM. There are two cooling fans, as others have already posted. Each cooling fan has a two wire pigtail connector to it. Look BETWEEN the two cooling fans for a two wire connector exactly identical to the ones plugged into the cooling fan motors. This will be plugged into the resistor. To disconnect it, simply DEPRESS the metal clip, and pull to remove. Look for a burned out connector, as well as the resistor it plugs into. To repair this problem, you need to go to your local Ford dealer parts department to purchase the blower resistor and pigtail connector. Both of these parts are very inexpensive, even from the dealer. It is also EXTREMELY common on your car. Please keep me informed of your findings. Hope this helps.
Found this answer on Yahoo answers and was Dead On !!! Melted plug and all. Ordered parts from ford and all is well.
Saturday, January 10, 2009
Honda accord ex 2000 coupe, the accessory power outlet doesn't work
Question:
I have a Honda Accord ex 2000 coupe, the accessory power outlet doesn't work, fuse is OK
Answer:
there is a fuse wire on the outlet itself that can go out . but first check the socket itself and both fuses
2000 ACCORD - Accessory Power Socket Test/Replacement
1. Remove the center console.
2. Disconnect the 2P connector.
3. Inspect the connector terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
· If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
· If the terminals look OK, go to step 4.
4. Turn the ignition switch ACC (I), and check for voltage between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals.
· There should be battery voltage.
· If there is no battery voltage, check for:
- blown No. 8 (7.5 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box.
- faulty accessory socket relay.
- poor ground (G501, G581).
- an open in the wire.
- blown No.9 (20 A) in the passenger's under-dash fuse/relay box.
Friday, December 19, 2008
Advice on Questions to Ask When Buying A Car
2009 Smart fortwoFriday, September 26, 2008
Which Online Repair Manual is Better, Mitchell or Alldata?
It is cheaper to fix the old one than to buy a new one. But with today's cars you need detailed information and wiring schematics in order to repair your Car, Truck or SUV. In other words, you need an Online Auto Repair Manual. We can all agree on that part of it.
Both Online Auto Repair Manuals , Mitchell and Alldata, stand to be great sources of information for car repair procedures, wiring diagrams, torque specifications, belt installations, Service bulletins and more. One major difference is the price. Both cover 1983-2012.
- Mitchell : minimum purchase is $9.99
- Alldata : minimum purchase is $12.95 if you use coupon code 1MOTR2587
If you have an older car you can purchase a Vintage Manual DVD from Mitchell that covers 1960-1982
Friday, September 19, 2008
How can I become a Car Mechanic ?
When you become interested in learning all that you can about being an Car mechanic, Nascar mechanic or just want to know more about Car repair, Automotive mechanic school is the place to start. Here are a few to get you started :
NASCAR Mechanic Colleges - Features NASCAR Technical Institute ... Auto Mechanic School. Marine Mechanic. Motorcycle Mechanic. Aviation Mechanic. NASCAR Mechanic
Government Statistics on Automotive Service Technicians and Mechanics - The work of automotive service technicians and mechanics has evolved from mechanical repair to a high technology job.
Race Car Mechanic School - Our beginning and advanced courses are included in your course fee as well as participation in our monthly race series. The Racing Schools at Infineon Raceway are a favorite in the USA. From go karting to formula racing, ESPN Jim Russell Racing can put you in the driver's seat.
More Schools
Wednesday, September 17, 2008
Where Can I Ask A Car Question?
You will find that all you have to do is type your car question in the box provided and click the tab at the bottom of the box. Follow the step by step instructions. There are mechanics online 24/7 ready to answer your question. You can decide if you want to pay them for there time and how much you would like to pay them if at all. its up to you. You can even choose the mechanic you wish to have your question answered by.
what are possible reason for water getting in the engine
Some of the most common causes are a bad head gasket or depending on the vehicle it could be an intake gasket leaking. Some other causes could be a cracked head or a cracked block causing water to get into the engine. If it just a very little bit of water and you are not loosing coolant it could be just condensation. You should have the vehicle pressure tested and depending on the results from that you may need to do a compression test.
Tuesday, August 12, 2008
My car will not start every time
Question:
I have a 1994 Chevy S-10 with a 2.2L engine. It will not start every time I try. It does nothing when I turn the Key, the lights on the dash come on but nothing else. But, if I keep trying it will eventually crank over and start. What could be the problem?
Answer:
This is actually a classic description of a failed/failing starter assembly. What happens is on the inside of the starter there are contact points called"brushes". These contact points are what deliver electricity to the "armature"(the rotating part) and cause it to turn. When these brushes where down far enough then the cap the electricity has to jump becomes to great and makes it difficult to jump the gap.
The fix for this issue would be to have the starter replaced. The part runs about $75.00 for a remanufactured starter and around $125.00 for a new one with about an hour for labor.
Friday, June 20, 2008
Chevy Code 42
Had a customer bring in a 1989 Chevy Van G20, 5.7L with a stumble issue and intermittent stall. The check engine light was on .The check engine light codes can be Extracted without a scan tool. The code that was extracted was Code 42 : Electronic spark timing (EST) circuit fault.
A quick read of a great article on Code 42 that covers the specific components involved : The EST system consists of the ignition module, computer (ECM/PCM), and the connecting wiring.
Used a Multi-meter to test and check the wiring and found no issues, but what was noticed is the fuel injectors would click several times by themselves with the key off. This was a bit strange, but lead me to believe there had to be a short somewhere causing this and sure enough there was an internal short in the ECM. Purchased an ECM for the local parts house for just under $100.00 and replaced it. The engine no longer has the stumble and it no longer puffs smoke when you start it up (originally thought to be valve seals gone bad).
Customer happy!
Side note* I did try a new EST first as it was easy to get to and a quick test. It is located under the drivers seat along with the ECM.
Friday, June 06, 2008
Code P0506 - 2005 Ford Crown Victoria - low idle, stalling
Customer Complaint:
Intermittent stalling
Action Taken:
Test drove the car and was able to reproduce the condition. Also noticed a low idle.
Hooked up my Genisys Scan Tool and found a history code P0506. Checked Idle speed at 500 rpm, should be around 750 rpm
P0506 : Idle Control System RPM Lower Than Expected
Normally you would jump to the IAC ( Idle Air Control ) but this vehicle does not have one as it is Throttle by wire (electronic throttle control - ETC).
Description:
Vehicles with electronic throttle control (ETC) This DTC is set when the powertrain control module (PCM) detects an engine idle speed that is less than the desired RPM.
Possible Causes:
1) Air intake restriction
2) Exhaust restriction
3) Engine mechanical fault.
4) Damaged electronic throttle body (ETB)
5) Damaged PCM
This DTC is informational only and it may be accompanied by other DTCs. Diagnose other DTCs first. If other DTCs are not present inspect the intake air system for air restrictions and damage. If no concerns are present, clear the DTC and retest.
Solution:
I found carbon build up in the Throttle Body at and around the butterfly inside the throttle body. Some brake wash and a rag quickly removed the carbon build up. Tested, and Idle speed was up from 500 rpm to 800 rpm. Test drove and the vehicle performed as it should. Fixed!!
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