Brake caliper bracket identification Chevy Trailblazer

Subject: Brake caliper bracket identification

Vehicles Involved: 2002-2005 Chevrolet Trailblazer, 2002-2005 GMC Envoy,
2004-2005 Buick Rainier, Oldsmobile Bravada, Isuzu Ascender

Condition: Caliper bracket

Repair Procedure: There are two calipers listed for the above platforms, FRC11237 and FRC11237A.

Both calipers are physically the same except that the bracket is different.

The change to the bracket was made to accommodate the larger rotor diameter.

Caliper FRC11237 will fit most platforms with the long wheel base or with extended cab.

The bracket of the FRC11237 can be easily identified with a protruding tab as compared to the FRC11237A where the tab is even with the bracket.

One other detail is the distance between the mounting holes and the slider pin, the distance of FRC11237 is 3 inches as compared to the dimensions of the bracket supplied with FRC11237A, the distance is 3.250".

TSB Bulletin BPI 12-03

1997 K2500 suburban 2500 with 350 vortech

Issue: brakes

This has hydro boost

I changed the master cylinder tonight... I have better braking... but pedal travels almost completely to floor before brakes begin to bite..... I adjusted the drums with no change... even with truck off I can not pump the pedal hard.. do you have any ideas? Could it be the hydro booster? I'm at a loss and need better brakes as I tow more days than not.

      Response:
Pedal Height is controlled by the rear brake adjustment and it is also a possibility you have air in the system or mastercylender. You may also have a bad wheel cylender either leaking or frozen. also check for an equalizing valve if it has a tow package. These are usually attachedto the rear axle simular to GM's Load Leveler Valve Assy. for air ride systems.


It has a tow package...I can find no type of valve that you mention. I took drums apart last nite and checked for correct function... everything was working proprly... I even vacuum bled the system but still no pedal with that new master cylinder... I have better stopping ability but no pedal height...

I read online to check the hydro booster shut the truck off and pump it several times to discharge it then while holding to the floor start truck and see if it drops then kicks back up... which it did.. so ATM I'm at a loss of what could be wrong....but I need better brakes asap don't get me wrong I can stop fine... but the low pedal is not my cup of tea

     Response:
the hydro boost is bad, but it cna be rebuilt, quit being a mechanic back in 2000, but pretty sure that's what the old oldsmobile diesels did with a bad booster, use to rebiuld them, but that was a long time ago

97k2500 suburban 2500 with 350 vortech brake issues

This has hydro boost
I changed the master cylinder tonight... I have better braking... but pedal travels almost completely to floor before brakes begin to bite..... I adjusted the drums with no change... even with truck off I can not pump the pedal hard.. do you have any ideas? Could it be the hydro booster? I'm at a loss and need better brakes as I tow more days than not

Brake Bleeder Screw Removal Tool

It’s a known fact that working on cars can instantly turn good intentions into horrifying mistakes. You know, like when you snap a piece off of your plastic radiator by accident, when you spend an entire day failing at everything, or when you light yourself on fire. Yes, it’s times like these when you just want to roll your entire tool box into a giant smelting-hot volcano. Within minutes, your arsenal of tools collected over decades would be nothing but a gooey ball of liquid hot magma. Then you would never have to touch a stupid wrench again. Sadly, most of us don’t live near a liquid hot magma filled volcano, and if we did, we wouldn’t have the strength to push a tool box to the summit. So, we are forced to find viable solutions to these horrific mistakes as we wrench our way into the sunset.

This brings me to bleeder screws. OMG! But how?! Well, I am fairly certain that bleeder screws are the leading cause of the current economic crisis, 98% of failed marriages, and the eruption of Mt. Vesuvius. Bottom line, bleeders are a black hole of happiness, and they will crush your soul. The reason for this is simple. They are made of steel, which rusts, and breaks off when you desperately need it. Every. Single. Stupid. Time. Okay, fine! To be fair, it’s more of a rust thing. It isn’t the bleeder’s fault that it rusts itself solid and becomes one with the caliper. It’s the damp weather, neglect, and road salt. LOTS of road salt. Mix iron, aluminum, salt, and time together and you have a simple recipe that encourages you to push your tools into the tar pit full of Woolly Mammoths.

That being said, there is apparently a new god-like solution to rusty bleeder screws that I found on YouTube. A solution so great that Zeus himself would rub his chin with his hand, lean back, and with Shawn Connery’s voice declare “Not bad“! It’s called the “Phoenix System 4001 Brake Free”, and it may be the best $40-ish bucks that you ever spend if it works as well as it appears to in the video. If not, then you can write your favorite offensive word on it, and then heave it into the nearest river for satisfaction.

Here is the way it apparently works:

- You insert this tool into the business end of an air hammer.

- You then slide the bleeder-screw-sized impact socket onto the end of the tool.

- Place the air hammer and “Brake Free” tool onto the potentially (always) stuck, rusty bleeder screw.

- Crank up the air hammer, and then spin the “Brake Free” with a 3/4 wrench.

- BAM! The bleeder spins out without any danger, swearing, or hassle. Life is great am I right?



Now, the guy that made this video is a regular car-guy that makes videos as he works on cars. I’ve never met him, but he makes a fairly entertaining video for sure. I can’t speak for him, but I know I’m not getting paid by the tool maker to show it off. Mine is set to arrive in the mail today, so I will be sure to report back my own results, whether they are good or bad. If you decide that you are convinced by the video already, like I was, then you can buy your own over on SummitRacing.com like I did. That also happens to be where I borrowed the above image from. Anyway, as you can see in the video, the guy takes a VW brake setup from his back yard after it had been sitting ~20 years, and with the help of this tool, he pops the bleeder free on the first try. The whole thing makes no sense, and yet makes perfect sense. It is an automotive emotional roller coaster that I don’t want to end. Does it really work? Is it a scam? I will let you know in the very near future. Looks like I’ll need to find a sacrificial caliper for the cause…

Resource:www.1aauto.com

98 Grand Prix ABS light is on and my Trac light is off

My ABS light is on and my Trac light is off. Could it be a wheel bearing? Or just unplugged? Where would the plug be, so that I can check it? Thanks!

Response:
Probably a wheel bearing as the sensors are usually integrated in them.... if the sensor is not in the bearing it will be behind the wheel knuckle usually held in by 1 screw... check the wiring leading to the sensor/bearing and looking for any signs of damage, both front wheels(if I remember correctly they are integrated with the bearings in front and sensors in the rear)

I do know that on newer cars if your brakes get to warn it can trigger the brake light or abs light or both

Hard braking when cold, lack of power assist

Vehicles Involved: all vehicles operating in cold climate (sub-freezing temperatures).

Condition: A hard pedal or lack of power assist in cold weather (below freezing) at initial start up when the brake pedal is depressed. Vehicles driven in cold weather and kept inside a garage overnight may experience these symptoms.

Repair: A quick test, with KOEO, depresses the brake pedal several times. This will bleed off any vacuum trapped in the booster. Apply pressure to the brake pedal and start the engine if your foot drops slightly the booster is functioning normally.

If the pedal does not drop perform the following steps; remove the power brake booster vacuum hose. It is important to check the booster operation with a vacuum gauge. A minimum of 16 inches hg (units for measuring vacuum inches of mercury) at the booster check valve connection is required to operate the booster.

If you do not have the proper vacuum, check the source, and check for obstruction in the hose. If the hose is obstructed, replace it. Check the PCV valve by shaking it. You should hear a clicking noise which indicates the valve is free. Check for any moisture or water inside the valve itself. If water is found, dry it out thoroughly. Replacement hoses should replicate the original equipment hose.

Condensation can freeze the booster diaphragm and/or check valve thus creating a hard brake pedal. Vehicles that have been driven in cold weather and are kept inside a garage overnight may experience these symptoms. Another approach to solving this problem is to let the engine warm up before driving away.

Noise from left front wheel, and ABS light on

Subject: Noise from left front wheel, and ABS light on

Vehicles Involved: Ford Escape 2009, Mercury Mariner 2009

Condition: A clicking or rubbing noise from the left front wheel, and the ABS light may be on.

Repair: The ABS wheel speed sensor may be making contact with the reluctor wheel. This is caused by a defective knuckle, which miss-aligns the sensor and reluctor.

Remove the wheel and measure the air gap between the sensor and reluctor. If the air gap is less than .020 in. or inspection indicates the sensor has been making contact with the reluctor, the steering knuckle must be replaced. The installation of a new design knuckle from Ford should correct this problem.

TSB No. BPI 11-07

Grabby or touchy Brakes when applied and/or MIL light on.

Vehicles Involved: Cadillac, Escalade 2009; Chevrolet, Silverado, Tahoe 2009; GMC, Yukon, Sierra 2009

Condition: Vehicles equipped with two-mode Hybrid System may experience grabbing brakes or a touchy brake pedal when the brakes are applied. The ABS light may come on and a DTC C012E may be set in the EBCM.

Repair: The EBCM must be reprogrammed with the latest calibration available. Re-flashing the control module should correct the problem.

TSB No. BPI 11-06

94 jeep gc brakes

I have the vehicle listed above... I have completely replaced all parts in the braking system except the abs pump which still functions

Changed:
Power booster
Master cylinder
Proportoning valve
Rubber hoses
Calipers
Wheel cylinders
New rotors
Best non ceramic pads $ can buy on from and shoes on back

I can only get a semi hard brake pedal but I have pretty decent stopping(much better than before I changed the power booster)

Any thoughts on getting a more firm pedal??

Response:
On SOME Jeep Trucks on the rear axle where the brake lines connect is a "Limiter" that functions to allow more fluid to the rear brakes as more payload is gained. On others there is an electrical switch simular to a leveling device that controls the computer and ABS distribution. every wheel has a speed sensor that control each wheel by pressure and signal to the computer. If you have a Bendix System the Accumulator is part of the Pump Assy.

TSB 1987-2002 Dodge Dakota/ Durango Front caliper housing bolt

Condition: Caliper housing bolt damaged when servicing front brakes

Repair: When servicing the brakes and replacing the front brake pads some techs have complained that the hex head of the housing bolt because of its size M9-1.25 is easily stripped or damaged when they re-install the caliper.

The fix is to install an alternative housing bolt with a M10-1.25 hex head.

The bigger hex will be stronger and will facilitate installation without any issues.

The Raybestos part number for the M10-1.25 housing bolt is H5015W.

Brake problem with 1992 Chevy Lumina Car

the rear brakes on our lumina are shot we just bought the car and discovered the pads are missing and the rotors are severely rusted and pitted i do not even know if the calipers work.can the rotors be turned or is it just as well to buy new.any advice would be helpful thanks.

Response:
1) The rotors can be turned if there is enough metal left on them to be safely used. There is a minimum thickness which varies depending on the manufacturer. If you bring it to a shop, most will replace the rotors, just for the extra bux.

2) I would compare the price to buying them new. The cost of new rotors vs turning them on our van was only a $5 difference so we bought new.

3) Remember that with ABS Brakes to block the line and crack the bleeder screws before you compress and that they turn while compressing. You can rent the tool from most auto parts stores inexpesively. Myself, I'd replace the calipers just because my son has a 93 Lumina and know that they freeze up due to mounting hardware issues. The Hardware kit is cheap and easy to install to ensure safety. We replaced the rotors for $30 each(Borg), calipers were $40 each(Wagner), pads were $25 for the Lifetime Pads(Wagner).

4) I wouldn't open the bleeder screws... I'd take the cap off the master cylinder and push the cylinders back with a clamp(front) or rears turn them back with a special tool its a cube with a bunch of different prong arrangements and you turn it with a 3/8 ratchet... About 11 at most parts stores.... That way when your done its not necessary to bleed the brakes

5) You GO RIGHT AHEAD. The 1st time you have to buy a NEW Accumulator you'll have learned 1 expensive lesson about ABS Systems. And THAT Folks is WHY We block the lines and bleed off thru the bleeder screw.

Vibration after Replacement of new rotors

I recently purchased 2 new rotors for my suzuki grand vitara and had my tech install the new rotors, when I drove off… I had a shake in the steering wheel when applying the brakes and it felt like the brakes was slipping when pressing on the brakes. I took off the wheel to check for oil or dirt on the rotors and didnt see any oil/dirt on the rotors. I then took it back the tech and he install the old rotors back and didnt have the problem anymore. My tech informed me that the rotors wasnt a good set and where not balance and I needed to take them back to the store and get a replacement. Was this information correct that I was told?

Response:
This is accurate information. The new rotors you had put on were no good right out of the box, it happens form time to time.

The store should Brake Article

the rear brakes on this stratus and the right rear caliper will not release

I replace the rear brakes on this stratus and the right rear caliper will not release. There seems to be nothing wrong with the caliper itself. The pressure does not back off when you take your foot off the brake. I think it has anti-lock braking system. Any Ideas.

Response:
Is it only one side that will not release? How do you know that. Did you try squeezing the caliper back away from the pads?
1) Sounds like the rubber part of the line has collapsed,that line has a inner line that gets weak and when you press on the brake pedal it lets the fluid flow out to the caliper but when you let off and the fluid tries to return back the line collapses keeping pressure on caliper not letting it release...
2)And to prove this, get a c-clamp and push the piston back into the caliper. Remove the clamp and the piston should stay in the caliper. Start the car, push on the brake petal, turn the car off, and check to see if the piston stays in the out position. If so, replace the rubber hose. You will need to bleed the air out of the lines when that is done. Get some penetrating oil. I like Kroil, others on this list like PB Blaster. Spray the bleeders until you can loosen them. You will also need a friend to help with the bleeding.

3)
Do you know the the stratus has screw in rear calipers and not push in calipers???

2009 Jeep Grand Cherokee Brake Noise

My brakes make a horrible a screeching noise with light pressure on the brake. They’ve been inspected several times and I ‘m told my brakes are fine. I’m told the thickness of the brake pads is fine. They’ve blown off “dust” which didn’t improve anything. I’m told they can cut the rotor but you can only get one cut from a rotor. I can have new brakes installed but if I’m told my brakes are fine…why would I have new ones put on? I’m at a loss on how to remedy this situation. This is a new vehicle. Brake noise started at 8,000 miles. It’s a 2009 JEEP Grand Cherokee.

Response:
from a safety and function stand point, there is no need to replace the brakes. The brakes will perform properly.

You can have the brakes cleaned multiple times but unless you have the pads and rotors replaced, the noise will return over time.

I would ...read the entire brake article

2001 Audi A4 trouble starting

I have an Audi A4 2001. sometimes when I start it, after moving it, just cant start even though the radio lights came on. But after say one hour, when I try to Start the engine, it comes on.What could be the problem? And the brakes are hard to press.

Response:
Thus could be caused by a bad starter assembly. Best way to test this is to check for voltage at the starter when it will not start…. if it is getting voltage and not turning over, you guess it = replace the starter.

Brake pedal feel is firm, but brakes lack sufficient stopping power or fade
1.Check the operation of the brake booster and brake booster check valve. Replace worn or failed parts.
2.Check brake linings and brake surface areas for glazing and replace worn or damaged parts.
3.Check for seized hydraulic parts and linkages, and clean or replace as needed.
http://www.freeautomechanic.com/brakes.html

brake lights come on and go off

I have a 2004 Malibu and the brake lights come on and go off while i'm driving Just wanted to know where the problem is.

Response:
That Dash Light "BRAKE" doesn't always indicate a problem. If your Parking Brake is loose this light may flash as you drive or even remain on. If this light ONLY comes on while Applying the Brakes THEN you have a problem of either adjustment/replacem ent or Air in the system. A GOOD Indicator is if you must "Pump Up" the Brakes. This Light is controlled by a Proportioning Valve and NOT Cheap and Rare to go Bad.

Anti-lock brake problem

Hopefully someone here can help me. I have a 2003 Chevy Astro Van and everytime I use my brakes my anti-lock brakes kick in with their grinding just as I am almost at a stop. It is really annoying. I had someone look at my brakes a few weeks ago. He told me there was nothing wrong that my brakes are all over 50% and that it's just the anti-locks working when it's slippery. Well, it happens ALL the time, even on dry blacktop. I hope this is nothing serious or expensive. Any help is greatly appreciated.


Thank you!

Response:
1) my 07 f550 does the same thing and ford dont know why but has been doing this for 170000 miles with no other problems

2) Number one cause of this issue is a failing Speed sensor. The speed sensors are located inside the front hub bearing assemblies. This means you have to replace the entire hub bearing......

Or, you can just remove the ABS fuse or Relay to deactivate the ABS system. The ABS will no longer work which means it will no longer give you a problem when it is dry out. Just won't work in the wet, icy roads either. Once you save up the money, you may want to have the ABS system fixed.

How do I remove the rear brake drums on a 1999 Dodge Ram Van 1500 ?

After removing the wheel and tire, remove the clip from one of the studs. Bang on the drum and try to pull it forward. If it won't move, remove the rubber plug from behind, and adjust your shoes inward, with a brake adj. tool, and then try pulling the drum off.

http://www.freeautomechanic.com/brake-drum-brakes.html

issue with the brakes. The pedal is soft and tends to go to the floor

I am in Australia and we have a 97 Chevy Silverado that has been converted to right hand drive. We have an issue with the brakes. The pedal is soft and tends to go to the floor. We have changed master cylinders, pads, discs etc. etc. and now have bypassed the ABS and find that they work much better, but still a soft pedal. Our mechanic is wondering if there is a specific way of bleeding the ABS as this is where there seems to be some air that cannot be gotten rid of. Normal procedures are not working (normal in Aus anyway...) It is not an uncommon problem I believe in converted vehicles, but aside from being unsafe, our truck is now unsaleable until the ABS is reconnected and the pedal is firmer. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Already Tried: Bleeding brakes new master cylinder new discs new pads bypassing ABS

Answer:

The ABS system on this vehicle has always been problematic. There are a couple of things that will help when you bleed this system. This is a two person procedure and may require a pint or more of brake fluid per wheel. The old fashioned manual method with modification is best here, starting at the right rear wheel use a clear tube on the bleeder in a small glass of brake fluid crack the bleeder, have the person in the cap depress the brake pedal halfway never more and hold, the other person closes the bleeder and you both wait 15 - 20 seconds then the pedal is raised, the bleeder is cracked and the pedal is pressed, bleeder closed, pedal held halfway down etc. until all air stops coming out of that corner. Continue around to all the wheels in the same manner. Once you have run a gallon of fluid through use a Tech2 scanner or a scanner that allows you to operated the automated bleed procedure in the ABS computer. After doing the automated bleed procedure once go back and re bleed the wheels manually. There are accumulator pistons in the ABS hydraulic unit that may be leaking, pull the small rubber cap from the two at the bottom of the unit and slide a small screwdriver in the hole until it bottoms on the piston and have a helper step on the brake pedal if the screwdriver is pushed out the piston is moving and the hydraulic unit is junk and must be replaced. These systems are soft low pedals when they are working properly and have been the bane of many a mechanic over the years I will be glad to see the last of them in the junkyard.

99 olds alero is shuttering when the brakes are applied

99 olds alero is shuttering when the brakes are applied. I have replaced rotors and pads and still shakes. It does have a broken wheel stud on one of the front wheels. Also has 147,000 miles. Would wheel hubs need replacing?

Answer:

There may be an issue with the hub bearings. There are two ways to check a hub bearing. One is to swerve a bit left than right while driving about 15-25 mph and listen for a whirring noise and the noise will change pitch as you swerve. For hub bearings that are in worse shape, Simply jack up the front end and grab hold of the tire and try to wiggle it top to bottom, any play or movement at all is from a failed hub bearing. Another thing that can cause this is a bad spot on a tire. Rotating the front tires to the back and test driving it should let you know if this is the case. One missing wheel stud will not cause an issue.