TOP TEN CAR REPAIR RIPOFFS TO WATCH OUT FOR
1. Flushing the engine or transmission, when it is not called for in the normal maintenance schedule. Usually, engines do not need to be flushed other than for routine coolant replacement, and the transmission only should be flushed according to the recommendations in your owner’s manual.
2. Some shops assume you need the car’s severe-use maintenance service, which typically involves changing filters and fluids more frequently than the regular schedule recommends. Again, check your owner’s manual for the recommended service intervals. If you do a lot of stop-and-go driving and short trips, you may indeed need more frequent oil changes – but again, check first.
3. Does the mechanic keep charging you to replace different parts to solve the same problem? He is probably having trouble diagnosing your car. Ask the mechanic to refund the cost of the first (probably unnecessary) repair. Multiple failures of the same part or even in the same area are rare.
4. Is the shop replacing the same part over and over? Watch for shoddy workmanship or a poor-quality part. Sometimes particular car models are prone to certain kinds of problems. Check www.nhtsa.dot.gov for automaker service bulletins and consumer complaints. If you find you need to return over and over you need a new mechanic!
5. If you’re being told that only dealerships can perform maintenance – sorry, it’s not true. Legally, you can have maintenance performed by any mechanic without affecting your warranty. Just make sure your mechanic uses the correct fluids specified for your vehicle’s model, and keep thorough records in case of a warranty claim. The only dealership-required service is warranty-related repairs and recalls.
6. Lifetime muffler promise? Be leery. Some car repair chains may offer free muffler replacements, but it gets you into their shop where they try to sell you expensive exhaust system repairs. However, a good repair shop may offer a lifetime warranty on certain parts such as alternators and water pumps, because those parts should last the life of your vehicle.
7. Some shops might fraudulently recommend work that doesn’t need to be done at all. Ask them to physically show you and demonstrate the problem part. For example, they should show you a broken fan belt, or turn on your headlights to prove that a light is out.
8. Suspiciously cheap brake repair deals. Repair shops can’t make money on a $50 brake pad replacement – not unless they use very poor quality parts. It’s likely an excuse to get you to pay for new rotors or other parts you may not need.
9. Bad attitudes. Does the shop care only about making a quick buck, or do they want to develop a long-term business relationship with you? A good shop will be honest that you don’t need a repair this time around, because they believe you’ll trust them enough to come back when your vehicle really does need help.
10. The old bait-and-switch. A common scam is to charge you for high-quality parts but actually install cheaper ones. Ask to see the new parts before the shop installs them. With tires, check the information on the sidewall. Still, without expert knowledge, it may be difficult for you to know for sure – this is why it’s so important to find a trustworthy repair shop.
Above all, don’t pay for repairs until you’re satisfied. You have every right to make sure you’re getting what you’re paying for.
Most of all, you can avoid these kinds of issues in the first place when you choose a shop that’s part of AAA’s Approved Auto Repair network. AAA inspects and approves nearly 8,000 auto repair shops in the U.S. and Canada. Approved shops meet tough professional standards for customer service, cleanliness, equipment and training. All AAA members receive a free maintenance inspection upon request in conjunction with any other paid service. Additionally, many AAA Approved Auto Repair shops participate in the AAA Show Your Card & Save program, providing discounts on repair and maintenance to AAA members. A listing of nearby approved shops is available at AAA.com/Repair.
One in four American drivers could not pay for a car repair of $2,000 if faced with one today, according to the results of a survey released in August by AAA. More than half of American drivers also said they are holding onto their older vehicle because they do not want the financial burden of a new one. And, one quarter of drivers admitted to neglecting repairs and maintenance on their vehicles in the past 12 months due to the economic climate, which AAA Automotive experts say can greatly increase the likelihood of their car needing a costly, major repair.
“Economic conditions have taken their toll on many Americans resulting in them neglecting their cars and leaving them at increased risk for very expensive repair bills,” says Lardear. “So it’s more important than ever to find a car repair shop that you trust.”
Showing posts with label Auto Repair. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Auto Repair. Show all posts
Sunday, October 09, 2011
Sunday, October 02, 2011
Tips to Changing Your Vehicle Battery
The lifespan of a car battery is short; hence, it could easily leave you while it's raining or in an uninhabited place. If you are in a place where you could switch your power supply, check out these useful simple steps.
To begin with, you have to be sure if the issue comes from the power supply or from some other part of the automobile. Once you've assured that none of the alternative components are malfunctioning, you can start the "resurrection" of your battery. In some cases it is not mandatory to swap it; you just are required to thoroughly clean it. Inspect it and seek out traces of cakey white substance which doesn't allow the power supply to recharge correctly while being used. This is known as sulfate and generally forms when lead and acid interfere with each other. To be able to clean it you must create a solution of baking soda and water, and pour it on the altered parts. As soon as the sulfate has blended, clean it with an a piece of cloth.
If the procedure doesn't provide good results, it signifies you should say farewell to your former car power supply and buy a new one. You have to be physically prepared for heavy-lifting, as it weighs nearly 24 pounds. Nowadays, many auto parts stores provide a no cost battery installation, however, if you want to be a man and do it all by yourself, you have to stick to a several steps. Right after you have decided that your old electric battery is useless, the whole process of swapping it starts. Just in case you haven't clean it before with a solution made out of baking soda as well as water, you can do it now. Once you make certain that things are clean, search for cracks and acid leakage. Do not put your bare hand on it, mainly because you'll suffer painful burns.
Open up your tool kit and select required tools, for instance vise pliers, crescent wrench, socket wrench and adjustable wrench. The power supply terminal cables are attached to the battery terminals by bolts and nuts, so you will have to have most of those objects. It may seem weird, but you must also have a hammer with you, to give a tap or two in case the terminal cable will not wish to loosen from the terminal post. It's also good to purchase a battery terminal cleaner. It has a low price and can actually prove useful when brushing away corrosion. You may also want to buy a can of corrosion protection, so you will not have to replicate the process too quickly.
Don't forget that safety is first, so wear sturdy gloves and security goggles. Furthermore, the top of a Styrofoam cooler can be used to safely put the instruments that you are working with. Once you decide that it is time for you to switch the old battery, do not forget to take out the keys from the ignition. The car will remain powered on and may generate sparks as well as an explosion in the event you don't take out the keys. In case you have already cleansed the power supply with the baking soda solution, it will be quite easy to unscrew the nuts from the bolts. You can use the hammer to gently knock the posts and also cables and separate the sulfate deposit.
Begin with the detrimental post on the battery, holding the pliers and the wrench so you can change the nut in a counterclockwise direction. Do the same for the positive post. Remember that your equipment can produce a sparkle and may trigger and explosion, therefore put them on the Styrofoam top or at a certain distance car. After you remove the terminal cords, examine the battery for leakages and cracks, and try not to place your hands next to them. Unfasten the plate that helps keeping it in position and be ready to pick up a heavy load.
After you have taken out the old power supply, grab the new power supply, which can be even heavier and place it in the right spot. Fasten it with the secure plate, set back the terminal cables in their negative and positive posts, and you are ready to go. Don't overlook to take your outdated power supply to a recycling facility, since it is regarded as toxic waste materials.
Get more information:
car battery
To begin with, you have to be sure if the issue comes from the power supply or from some other part of the automobile. Once you've assured that none of the alternative components are malfunctioning, you can start the "resurrection" of your battery. In some cases it is not mandatory to swap it; you just are required to thoroughly clean it. Inspect it and seek out traces of cakey white substance which doesn't allow the power supply to recharge correctly while being used. This is known as sulfate and generally forms when lead and acid interfere with each other. To be able to clean it you must create a solution of baking soda and water, and pour it on the altered parts. As soon as the sulfate has blended, clean it with an a piece of cloth.
If the procedure doesn't provide good results, it signifies you should say farewell to your former car power supply and buy a new one. You have to be physically prepared for heavy-lifting, as it weighs nearly 24 pounds. Nowadays, many auto parts stores provide a no cost battery installation, however, if you want to be a man and do it all by yourself, you have to stick to a several steps. Right after you have decided that your old electric battery is useless, the whole process of swapping it starts. Just in case you haven't clean it before with a solution made out of baking soda as well as water, you can do it now. Once you make certain that things are clean, search for cracks and acid leakage. Do not put your bare hand on it, mainly because you'll suffer painful burns.
Open up your tool kit and select required tools, for instance vise pliers, crescent wrench, socket wrench and adjustable wrench. The power supply terminal cables are attached to the battery terminals by bolts and nuts, so you will have to have most of those objects. It may seem weird, but you must also have a hammer with you, to give a tap or two in case the terminal cable will not wish to loosen from the terminal post. It's also good to purchase a battery terminal cleaner. It has a low price and can actually prove useful when brushing away corrosion. You may also want to buy a can of corrosion protection, so you will not have to replicate the process too quickly.
Don't forget that safety is first, so wear sturdy gloves and security goggles. Furthermore, the top of a Styrofoam cooler can be used to safely put the instruments that you are working with. Once you decide that it is time for you to switch the old battery, do not forget to take out the keys from the ignition. The car will remain powered on and may generate sparks as well as an explosion in the event you don't take out the keys. In case you have already cleansed the power supply with the baking soda solution, it will be quite easy to unscrew the nuts from the bolts. You can use the hammer to gently knock the posts and also cables and separate the sulfate deposit.
Begin with the detrimental post on the battery, holding the pliers and the wrench so you can change the nut in a counterclockwise direction. Do the same for the positive post. Remember that your equipment can produce a sparkle and may trigger and explosion, therefore put them on the Styrofoam top or at a certain distance car. After you remove the terminal cords, examine the battery for leakages and cracks, and try not to place your hands next to them. Unfasten the plate that helps keeping it in position and be ready to pick up a heavy load.
After you have taken out the old power supply, grab the new power supply, which can be even heavier and place it in the right spot. Fasten it with the secure plate, set back the terminal cables in their negative and positive posts, and you are ready to go. Don't overlook to take your outdated power supply to a recycling facility, since it is regarded as toxic waste materials.
Get more information:
car battery
Thursday, September 29, 2011
TPMS - Tire Pressure Monitoring System
You might not know it, but your vehicle is most likely equipped with a tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS). This system allows you to know if, and when, your tires are under-inflated. A simple warning light alerts the driver of an issue.
Thanks to the TREAD Act, the U.S. requires certain vehicles, excluding tow trucks, step vans, and heavy-duty trucks, to be equipped with a TPMS alerting the driver when tire pressure gets low. Even with this law, many drivers cannot recognize the warning signs coming from their TPMS.
The importance of proper tire pressure
The correct level of tire pressure is a key component in getting from one place to another. Over 200,000 accidents occur annually across the United States due to insufficient tire pressure. Here are some interesting facts about the importance of tire inflation:
• About 75% of roadside flats are started by a slow leak or under inflation
• Americans could reduce fuel consumption by 10% and save a collective $2 billion a year if tires are kept properly inflated
• Using TPMS in the correct fashion could prevent an estimated 10,365 injuries and 79 deaths each year in the United States
How does TPMS help me?
TPMS is designed to provide drivers with correct tire pressure alerts and information needed to expand fuel efficiency, tire life, stability and handling, as well as lessen the need for tire maintenance. TPMS also decreases the risk of hydroplaning and regular tire wear-and-tear.
It is important to know exactly what your TPMS icon looks like on your dashboard, as a recent survey discovered that one in three drivers couldn’t identify a TPMS icon. All drivers should be educated about these warning lights to prevent hazardous situations.
This is the standard icon for the low-tire pressure warning indicator
This is the standard icon for the TPMS failure indicator
If you see a warning light like the ones shown above, know that something isn’t quite right and seek help. 44% of drivers admit they don’t pay attention to their car’s tire pressure, proving TPMS warning lights are critical for safety. If these lights appear, call your tire & automotive service professionals immediately.
Most issues with your TPMS aren’t expensive to fix and all work can be completed in a short visit. The most important step is to have the tire inspected by a tire professional. We’ve found the cause of a warning light can be fixed with a new TPMS valve service kit, installing a new battery in the sensor, reprogramming the TPMS system, or most commonly, a flat repair on the tire.
We encourage all drivers to leave tire safety issues to professionals. Many accidents and injuries can be avoided by paying attention to your dashboard’s TPMS warning lights – and trusting your vehicle(s) maintenance and repair needs to true professionals.
Each of our auto repair shop locations has the ability to check the status of your TPMS and if needed, add additional air to a low tire. Visit us for all your TPMS needs!
Thanks to the TREAD Act, the U.S. requires certain vehicles, excluding tow trucks, step vans, and heavy-duty trucks, to be equipped with a TPMS alerting the driver when tire pressure gets low. Even with this law, many drivers cannot recognize the warning signs coming from their TPMS.
The importance of proper tire pressure
The correct level of tire pressure is a key component in getting from one place to another. Over 200,000 accidents occur annually across the United States due to insufficient tire pressure. Here are some interesting facts about the importance of tire inflation:
• About 75% of roadside flats are started by a slow leak or under inflation
• Americans could reduce fuel consumption by 10% and save a collective $2 billion a year if tires are kept properly inflated
• Using TPMS in the correct fashion could prevent an estimated 10,365 injuries and 79 deaths each year in the United States
How does TPMS help me?
TPMS is designed to provide drivers with correct tire pressure alerts and information needed to expand fuel efficiency, tire life, stability and handling, as well as lessen the need for tire maintenance. TPMS also decreases the risk of hydroplaning and regular tire wear-and-tear.
It is important to know exactly what your TPMS icon looks like on your dashboard, as a recent survey discovered that one in three drivers couldn’t identify a TPMS icon. All drivers should be educated about these warning lights to prevent hazardous situations.
This is the standard icon for the low-tire pressure warning indicator
This is the standard icon for the TPMS failure indicator
If you see a warning light like the ones shown above, know that something isn’t quite right and seek help. 44% of drivers admit they don’t pay attention to their car’s tire pressure, proving TPMS warning lights are critical for safety. If these lights appear, call your tire & automotive service professionals immediately.
Most issues with your TPMS aren’t expensive to fix and all work can be completed in a short visit. The most important step is to have the tire inspected by a tire professional. We’ve found the cause of a warning light can be fixed with a new TPMS valve service kit, installing a new battery in the sensor, reprogramming the TPMS system, or most commonly, a flat repair on the tire.
We encourage all drivers to leave tire safety issues to professionals. Many accidents and injuries can be avoided by paying attention to your dashboard’s TPMS warning lights – and trusting your vehicle(s) maintenance and repair needs to true professionals.
Each of our auto repair shop locations has the ability to check the status of your TPMS and if needed, add additional air to a low tire. Visit us for all your TPMS needs!
Thursday, August 04, 2011
1980 chevrolet
I'm working on my son's 1980 Chevy truck. Its been sitting for some time, and going thru things, I found the headlights don't work. I don't have any power to the switch. I don't find a fuse for them in the box, is there a fusible link or something else i'm missing.
Response:
There are 2 ways the system gets its power. 1 is a fusible link on the starter the other is a post on the radiator core support connecting the positive battery to acessories.
Response:
There are 2 ways the system gets its power. 1 is a fusible link on the starter the other is a post on the radiator core support connecting the positive battery to acessories.
Thursday, July 07, 2011
the motor is very hot, but isn't, chugging, no power. Hard to start
I would like to thank all that have responded in regards to the catalytic converter.
Last year, with the same symptoms, we punched holes in the converter. Alot of stuff blew out and was fine~after fixing the broken spark plug and cracked coil pack. The muffler shop plugged the holes when had the tailpipe fixed. We thought maybe it was just plugging up again, so we put the holes back in it. But alas, we still have the same problems.
I checked for broken plugs~none. I did find a bad vac line and taped it up for the time being. Now, I would like to see if the second coil is cracked, but cannot figure how to get it off. I took the one bolt out that I could see and it won't come off. I took the bolt out for the other pack, figuring it was holding second one on. Nothing. How to I get that thing off? We replaced the one marked 2 & 3. Now I would like to get 1 & 4 off to check it.
I incorrectly stated the year of my truck in my first message. It is a 1994, 4 cyl, automatic, S-10. My mechanic brother passed away, so I now have no one that can do the back yard stuff. Frustrating.
It acts like a vac line has come off, but they are all on now. Acts like the motor is very hot, but isn't, chugging, no power. Hard to start. We can be driving fine, then starts the no power and chugging. Last year, we would just pull over and shut it off for a few minutes and it would be fine to get home. I drove it two blocks this morning after fixing the one vac line. Was fine until I got half way around. I just came straight back home. It is fine at idle.
How do I get the coil pack off?
Last year, with the same symptoms, we punched holes in the converter. Alot of stuff blew out and was fine~after fixing the broken spark plug and cracked coil pack. The muffler shop plugged the holes when had the tailpipe fixed. We thought maybe it was just plugging up again, so we put the holes back in it. But alas, we still have the same problems.
I checked for broken plugs~none. I did find a bad vac line and taped it up for the time being. Now, I would like to see if the second coil is cracked, but cannot figure how to get it off. I took the one bolt out that I could see and it won't come off. I took the bolt out for the other pack, figuring it was holding second one on. Nothing. How to I get that thing off? We replaced the one marked 2 & 3. Now I would like to get 1 & 4 off to check it.
I incorrectly stated the year of my truck in my first message. It is a 1994, 4 cyl, automatic, S-10. My mechanic brother passed away, so I now have no one that can do the back yard stuff. Frustrating.
It acts like a vac line has come off, but they are all on now. Acts like the motor is very hot, but isn't, chugging, no power. Hard to start. We can be driving fine, then starts the no power and chugging. Last year, we would just pull over and shut it off for a few minutes and it would be fine to get home. I drove it two blocks this morning after fixing the one vac line. Was fine until I got half way around. I just came straight back home. It is fine at idle.
How do I get the coil pack off?
Friday, June 24, 2011
04 Explorer a/c burnt?
I have a good one for you! I knew sooner or later this would happen.It could have easily burned and totalled the vehicle.
My son's 04 Explorer which was having earlier problems with the a/c compressor not powering on, now it is a bigger problem. Previously he was jumpering directly from the a/c clutch wire connector to the battery, to engage the a/c compressor clutch with Automotive Air Conditioning Repair
Well,he decided to hook up a toggle switch to the suv interior. After doing that, it wasn't long before the a/c clutch two wire connector shorted together and caused melted black electrical tape and the toggle switch to burn up, taking out the battery in the process.
He had to replace the battery and now when he tries jumpering directly to the battery again,it just causes sparking.
My question is the a/c compressor clutch coil
possibly shorted out or could it be the old original wire connector itself causing the arcing? How can you test the a/c clutch coil?
I am presently trying to locate and buy a new a/c clutch wiring connector pigtail. It is a two spade/two wire connector. I called A/Z and Oreilly's and they either don't have it or unsure which connector is the proper one.
I may have to call a local Ford dealership.
I do understand all of this is a bone head way of powering the a/c compressor and shouldn't have been done.
Does anyone know a part or oem # that would help to find the correct replacement wire connector.
That is the first priority right now and then get it repaired properly at a mechanic shop.
This 2004 Ford Explorer is a 4 wd, 4.0L V-6, with Vin K
I just need to replace the wiring pigtail to eliminate a possibly burnt out/grounded out connector and hope that he didn't burn out the a/c clutch coil. I would appreciate your help with this very stupid problem.
Response:
1).. reminds me of putting the penny behind the fuse... or in modern times, tin foil around the fuse;-)
2)The A/C clutch coil is an electro magnet. Knowing that I suspect that the Compressor itself is probably bad causing excessive heat by dragging on the clutch surfaces. And I have seen the compressors start fires.
UPDATE
The 04 Explorer meltdown was when the vehicle wasn't running. It shorted out with the a/c clutch wire connector (where hot wired)the two wires touched. So I don't really think it was the compressor itself involved. It was operating well when jumpered due to inability to energize thru the OEM control system via the clutch cycling switch.
Can I check the a/c clutch coil with a multimeter for continuity and/or Ohms? I read that continuity would confirm a good complete circuit. I just want to get the car back to the point of a/c compressor able to engage properly and then get it repaired properly at a local mechanic shop.
I did call a Ford dealership and found a new a/c clutch wire connector pigtail.
Thanks guys for your assistance, will update you later.
My son's 04 Explorer which was having earlier problems with the a/c compressor not powering on, now it is a bigger problem. Previously he was jumpering directly from the a/c clutch wire connector to the battery, to engage the a/c compressor clutch with Automotive Air Conditioning Repair
Well,he decided to hook up a toggle switch to the suv interior. After doing that, it wasn't long before the a/c clutch two wire connector shorted together and caused melted black electrical tape and the toggle switch to burn up, taking out the battery in the process.
He had to replace the battery and now when he tries jumpering directly to the battery again,it just causes sparking.
My question is the a/c compressor clutch coil
possibly shorted out or could it be the old original wire connector itself causing the arcing? How can you test the a/c clutch coil?
I am presently trying to locate and buy a new a/c clutch wiring connector pigtail. It is a two spade/two wire connector. I called A/Z and Oreilly's and they either don't have it or unsure which connector is the proper one.
I may have to call a local Ford dealership.
I do understand all of this is a bone head way of powering the a/c compressor and shouldn't have been done.
Does anyone know a part or oem # that would help to find the correct replacement wire connector.
That is the first priority right now and then get it repaired properly at a mechanic shop.
This 2004 Ford Explorer is a 4 wd, 4.0L V-6, with Vin K
I just need to replace the wiring pigtail to eliminate a possibly burnt out/grounded out connector and hope that he didn't burn out the a/c clutch coil. I would appreciate your help with this very stupid problem.
Response:
1).. reminds me of putting the penny behind the fuse... or in modern times, tin foil around the fuse;-)
2)The A/C clutch coil is an electro magnet. Knowing that I suspect that the Compressor itself is probably bad causing excessive heat by dragging on the clutch surfaces. And I have seen the compressors start fires.
UPDATE
The 04 Explorer meltdown was when the vehicle wasn't running. It shorted out with the a/c clutch wire connector (where hot wired)the two wires touched. So I don't really think it was the compressor itself involved. It was operating well when jumpered due to inability to energize thru the OEM control system via the clutch cycling switch.
Can I check the a/c clutch coil with a multimeter for continuity and/or Ohms? I read that continuity would confirm a good complete circuit. I just want to get the car back to the point of a/c compressor able to engage properly and then get it repaired properly at a local mechanic shop.
I did call a Ford dealership and found a new a/c clutch wire connector pigtail.
Thanks guys for your assistance, will update you later.
Thursday, May 19, 2011
2000 Grand Cherokee Jeep Evap code
I have a 2000 Grand Cherokee Jeep 2WD. I had my “check engine light” looked at by a car repair shop. They told me that I had an Evap code of P0043. The mechanic said that the price would be around $300 to replace canisters, etc. Is this a good price? and what are the problems that this could cause with my car if it is not taken care of?
Response:
$300 for the O2 Sensor is a bit steep.. but as far as what happens if you do nothing, the good news is, nothing. The light will just be on. This o2 sensor just moniters the function of the Catalytic converter and has no bearing on fuel mileage or driveability of the vehicle and is only on there because our government says it has to be. You can drive it forever with out this particular part being replaced.
P0043 HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low Bank 1 Sensor 3
Symptoms
- Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light)
Possible causes
- Heated Oxygen Sensor (H2OS) Bank 1 Sensor 3 circuit open shorted to ground
- Heated Oxygen Sensor (H2OS) Bank 1 Sensor 3 circuit poor electrical connection
- Faulty Heated Oxygen Sensor (H2OS) Bank 1 Sensor 3 circuit
- Heated Oxygen Sensor (H2OS) Bank 1 Sensor 3 circuit fuse
- Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)
Tech notes
The code means that there is a problem with the READ MORE
Response:
$300 for the O2 Sensor is a bit steep.. but as far as what happens if you do nothing, the good news is, nothing. The light will just be on. This o2 sensor just moniters the function of the Catalytic converter and has no bearing on fuel mileage or driveability of the vehicle and is only on there because our government says it has to be. You can drive it forever with out this particular part being replaced.
P0043 HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low Bank 1 Sensor 3
Symptoms
- Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light)
Possible causes
- Heated Oxygen Sensor (H2OS) Bank 1 Sensor 3 circuit open shorted to ground
- Heated Oxygen Sensor (H2OS) Bank 1 Sensor 3 circuit poor electrical connection
- Faulty Heated Oxygen Sensor (H2OS) Bank 1 Sensor 3 circuit
- Heated Oxygen Sensor (H2OS) Bank 1 Sensor 3 circuit fuse
- Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)
Tech notes
The code means that there is a problem with the READ MORE
Thursday, May 12, 2011
Removing harmonic balancer pully need help
Okay here gos our issue, working on a 2000 chrysler cirus, changing out water pump and timing belt. So okay we know how to do that and where it is only problem we have is getting the harmonic balancer pully off to get to it all any suggestions on how or what to do. We have a pully puller, with j hooks. What was susposed to be a day job has turned in to a weeks night mare.
Response:
1) Use a balancer puller
2) The puller needed isn't a Jaw Puller rather it looks like a Peace Sign and has 3 or 4 bolts that go thru it and screw into the balancer where the pully is bolted. Then the center bolt screws down to the crankshaft and is pressed/pulled off. Intallation has a long threaded bolt with a nut and washer that threads into the end of the crankshaft. Tighten the nut and watch as the balancer is pressed on.
3) You can borrow one for free from Auto Zone, give them a deposit & get your deposit back when you return it. I'll bet the guys at Auto Zone will tell you how to use it, not hard to do
Response:
1) Use a balancer puller
2) The puller needed isn't a Jaw Puller rather it looks like a Peace Sign and has 3 or 4 bolts that go thru it and screw into the balancer where the pully is bolted. Then the center bolt screws down to the crankshaft and is pressed/pulled off. Intallation has a long threaded bolt with a nut and washer that threads into the end of the crankshaft. Tighten the nut and watch as the balancer is pressed on.
3) You can borrow one for free from Auto Zone, give them a deposit & get your deposit back when you return it. I'll bet the guys at Auto Zone will tell you how to use it, not hard to do
Wednesday, May 11, 2011
05 Chev Impala 3.4 water pump
I'm doing a water pump on this vehicle this afternoon. Any thing particular I should be aware of?
Response:
1) aluminum housing use pb! take time so dont snap bolts! other than that 3m spay to allign pump! but with patients u got this!
2) There was little plastic tits on all the bolts but one. They made it a real pain to put back together.
3) That's silicone... Shoulda peeled it off
4) NO its a very hard plastic, I believe it was some idiot engineers bright idea to hold the gasket in place. Never seen that before and I've probaly done a thousand water pumps.
5) Oh I did one on the same car and it appeared that way but was just silicone... That's why I said that... But none the less definately a stupid design by engineering
Response:
1) aluminum housing use pb! take time so dont snap bolts! other than that 3m spay to allign pump! but with patients u got this!
2) There was little plastic tits on all the bolts but one. They made it a real pain to put back together.
3) That's silicone... Shoulda peeled it off
4) NO its a very hard plastic, I believe it was some idiot engineers bright idea to hold the gasket in place. Never seen that before and I've probaly done a thousand water pumps.
5) Oh I did one on the same car and it appeared that way but was just silicone... That's why I said that... But none the less definately a stupid design by engineering
Saturday, April 02, 2011
94 jeep gc brakes
I have the vehicle listed above... I have completely replaced all parts in the braking system except the abs pump which still functions
Changed:
Power booster
Master cylinder
Proportoning valve
Rubber hoses
Calipers
Wheel cylinders
New rotors
Best non ceramic pads $ can buy on from and shoes on back
I can only get a semi hard brake pedal but I have pretty decent stopping(much better than before I changed the power booster)
Any thoughts on getting a more firm pedal??
Response:
On SOME Jeep Trucks on the rear axle where the brake lines connect is a "Limiter" that functions to allow more fluid to the rear brakes as more payload is gained. On others there is an electrical switch simular to a leveling device that controls the computer and ABS distribution. every wheel has a speed sensor that control each wheel by pressure and signal to the computer. If you have a Bendix System the Accumulator is part of the Pump Assy.
Changed:
Power booster
Master cylinder
Proportoning valve
Rubber hoses
Calipers
Wheel cylinders
New rotors
Best non ceramic pads $ can buy on from and shoes on back
I can only get a semi hard brake pedal but I have pretty decent stopping(much better than before I changed the power booster)
Any thoughts on getting a more firm pedal??
Response:
On SOME Jeep Trucks on the rear axle where the brake lines connect is a "Limiter" that functions to allow more fluid to the rear brakes as more payload is gained. On others there is an electrical switch simular to a leveling device that controls the computer and ABS distribution. every wheel has a speed sensor that control each wheel by pressure and signal to the computer. If you have a Bendix System the Accumulator is part of the Pump Assy.
Monday, March 28, 2011
1999 Ford Tarus Cylinder #3 misfire detected
Customer Complaint:
Check engine light on and flashing. Dead miss when engine running.
Shop Diagnosis:
Computer diagnostics showed code p0303 cylinder #3 Misfire detected.
Tested for spark and fuel injection pulse and both were found.
Performed compression test and found it to be low at only 20psi.
Coolant levels were good and engine oil appeared to be ok.
No white smoke from tail pipe.
Still suspected a blown head gasket as these engine are not prone to cracked heads.
Further Engine Diagnostics:
After removing the head, found the #3 cylinder combustion chamber in the head to be wet looking. After further checking( turn upside down and fill chamber with water) found the exhaust valve not sealing.
Repair:
Removed exhaust valve($15.00) and found it to be bent.
Replaced with new valve.
Reassembled and tested operation... No more misfire and customer is happy.
Check engine light on and flashing. Dead miss when engine running.
Shop Diagnosis:
Computer diagnostics showed code p0303 cylinder #3 Misfire detected.
Tested for spark and fuel injection pulse and both were found.
Performed compression test and found it to be low at only 20psi.
Coolant levels were good and engine oil appeared to be ok.
No white smoke from tail pipe.
Still suspected a blown head gasket as these engine are not prone to cracked heads.
Further Engine Diagnostics:
After removing the head, found the #3 cylinder combustion chamber in the head to be wet looking. After further checking( turn upside down and fill chamber with water) found the exhaust valve not sealing.
Repair:
Removed exhaust valve($15.00) and found it to be bent.
Replaced with new valve.
Reassembled and tested operation... No more misfire and customer is happy.
Thursday, March 03, 2011
TSB 2009 Caravan/Town and Country Squeak at Low Speed Maneuvers and Over Bumps
Subject: Squeak at Low Speed Maneuvers and Over Bumps
Vehicle Involved: 2009 Caravan/Town and Country. This bulletin applies to vehicles built before February 9, 2009
Condition: Some sway bars may be rubbing against the heat shield during low speed maneuvers and over bumps.
Repair Procedure: This bulletin involves removing, modifying and re-installing the power steering gear heat shield.
Inspect the heat shield to sway bar clearance, if there is rubbing between the sway bar and the heat shield, perform the repair procedure.
1. Raise the vehicle
2. Remove the power steering gear heat shield.
3. Remove the two bolts and clips that retain the heat shield to the vehicle.
4. Cut the heat shield along the line indicated in (Fig. 1).
5. Install the power steering gear heat shield. When installing the push pins replace them with new pins
6. Lower the vehicle
Vehicle Involved: 2009 Caravan/Town and Country. This bulletin applies to vehicles built before February 9, 2009
Condition: Some sway bars may be rubbing against the heat shield during low speed maneuvers and over bumps.
Repair Procedure: This bulletin involves removing, modifying and re-installing the power steering gear heat shield.
Inspect the heat shield to sway bar clearance, if there is rubbing between the sway bar and the heat shield, perform the repair procedure.
1. Raise the vehicle
2. Remove the power steering gear heat shield.
3. Remove the two bolts and clips that retain the heat shield to the vehicle.
4. Cut the heat shield along the line indicated in (Fig. 1).
5. Install the power steering gear heat shield. When installing the push pins replace them with new pins
6. Lower the vehicle
Wednesday, February 09, 2011
1999 Chevy Tahoe door latch
1999 Chevy Tahoe with cargo doors. The right door has a latch which goes over the left door. Somehow the latch got bumped and is in the closed position. Neither the auto door opener nor the key will let the latch come open. Any help?
Response:
1)Try to hold the handle open and pop the latch in the door with a screwdriver its happened to me once or twice
2)You may have to replace the latch I am guessing that it is jammed.
3)you carefully remove the lower panel by popping out the plastic tabs, usually done by inserting screwdriver between panel and door and prying. After removing the lower panel, peel back the plastic covering the metal door, and check the metal tab on the latch mechanism. If a bunch of dirt and needles are on the top of the door on the top weather stripping, I have seen this collection of dirt/debris prevent a functional latch mechanism from allowing the door to open.
Response:
1)Try to hold the handle open and pop the latch in the door with a screwdriver its happened to me once or twice
2)You may have to replace the latch I am guessing that it is jammed.
3)you carefully remove the lower panel by popping out the plastic tabs, usually done by inserting screwdriver between panel and door and prying. After removing the lower panel, peel back the plastic covering the metal door, and check the metal tab on the latch mechanism. If a bunch of dirt and needles are on the top of the door on the top weather stripping, I have seen this collection of dirt/debris prevent a functional latch mechanism from allowing the door to open.
Saturday, December 04, 2010
What Happens if I don't change my oil?
I read this post on Yahoo.com today and was quite surprised.
The easiest way to be able to tell when your oil should be replaced is when you can visually see the oil changing to a darker color as this is the first signs of the viscosity (thickness)breaking down. This means the oil is no longer doing its job.
So what exactly am I getting at? You may save a few dollars on oil changes but if you are needing your vehicle to last as long as it can you are just short changing yourself in the long run. An engine can cost Thousands.
What Happens if I don't change my oil? Nothing at first and then over time, the engine will start to wear prematurely and start burning oil (oil level decreases). You won't notice the vehicle smoking out the exhaust for a while but once you do, its too late. The damage is already done. You will be buying 2 to 3 quarts of oil between oil changes just to keep the engine full of oil. The engine will pass oil through the exhaust causing damage to the O2Sensors and catalytic converter causing the check engine light to come on and the fuel management system to work improperly giving worse fuel miles and Costing you more money. Then over time you notice a slight rattle or knock noise on start up that eventually happens anytime the engine is running and now you are looking at buying a new engine of replacing the vehicle. In the meantime your neighbor who had his oil changed regularly at 3,000 miles is having none of these problems and you are sitting there thinking you bought a lemon and the whole time it was just a lack of maintenance on your part.
........ Change your Oil, it isn't that expensive. $20,000 car vs. $20.00 oil change..... do the math.
Change Your Oil Every 3,000 MilesBeing a Shop Owner, a Shop Technician for over 20 years and previous Street and Track Racer, I have not only pushed engines to there limits but maintained fleets of vehicles for long periods of time including Police Vehicles that rarely get turned off. Here is the skinny on oil changes.
The little sticker placed on the car windshield reminds you to change a car's oil every 3,000 miles -- regardless of make, model or scenario.
But many experts now say the 3,000-mile oil change is dead. Why? New car engines and oil quality have advanced to the point where cars can go 5,000 to 10,000 miles without a change.
"Generally speaking, vehicles don't need to be changed every 3,000 miles anymore," says Tara Baukus Mello, author of Bankrate.com's Driving for Dollars column. "It's somewhere between 5,000 to 10,000, unless they have an engine oil sensor, and then it could be anywhere."
However, don't automatically assume you can push oil changes beyond 3,000 miles.
"It's important to consult your owner's manual for the frequency, the number of miles, the length of time between changes and the type of oil -- and to follow whatever those instructions are," Mello says.
- If you are planning on getting rid of the car in under 50,000 miles, you could get away with not ever changing the oil.
- If you plan on tossing their car at 100,000 miles or less, you can get away with changing your oil every 10,000 miles.
- If you would like your engine to last up to 500,000 miles change your oil every 3,000 miles.
The easiest way to be able to tell when your oil should be replaced is when you can visually see the oil changing to a darker color as this is the first signs of the viscosity (thickness)breaking down. This means the oil is no longer doing its job.
So what exactly am I getting at? You may save a few dollars on oil changes but if you are needing your vehicle to last as long as it can you are just short changing yourself in the long run. An engine can cost Thousands.
What Happens if I don't change my oil? Nothing at first and then over time, the engine will start to wear prematurely and start burning oil (oil level decreases). You won't notice the vehicle smoking out the exhaust for a while but once you do, its too late. The damage is already done. You will be buying 2 to 3 quarts of oil between oil changes just to keep the engine full of oil. The engine will pass oil through the exhaust causing damage to the O2Sensors and catalytic converter causing the check engine light to come on and the fuel management system to work improperly giving worse fuel miles and Costing you more money. Then over time you notice a slight rattle or knock noise on start up that eventually happens anytime the engine is running and now you are looking at buying a new engine of replacing the vehicle. In the meantime your neighbor who had his oil changed regularly at 3,000 miles is having none of these problems and you are sitting there thinking you bought a lemon and the whole time it was just a lack of maintenance on your part.
........ Change your Oil, it isn't that expensive. $20,000 car vs. $20.00 oil change..... do the math.
Thursday, October 07, 2010
Coolant Leak in 2001 Sunfire
Hello! HELP PLEASE!!!!! I have a 2001 Sunfire and my coolant keeps leaking out, I put some Coolant in it yesterday in Michigan City Indiana, and got home and the low coolant light came back on. Anyone, have an ideal what the problem could be? Im praying its not a big issue, so any help will be greatly appreaciated..
Response:
1) Check your hoses for a leak if that don't get it maybe you have a small crack in your radiator
2) Check for leaks under the car. Could be caused by a hose leak, bad water pump or radiator. If you don't see any leaks check your oil dipstick, if it is a milky or gray shade it could be a cracked head or head gasket which is bad. The milky or gray shade means the coolant is leaking into your engine and mixing with the oil.
3) I used "Bars stop leak" on mine last year around this time. Worked like a charm, haven't had a problem since. I drive a 1993 Saturn SC2.
4) take it to any auto shop and ask if they can give it a presure test, it should cost little or nothing
5) Google "Dexcool". Thats the red coolant that GM started using around 95 or 96. After reading the horror stories, decide if you still want to keep the car. This stuff will eat gaskets and metal engine parts to the point where you will eventually have to replace the engine. A friend with a late 90's Caddy spent 2 grand to replace the heads, and a month later 5 grand for a new engine. The car was only two years old. Another friend with 2 Chevy vans, a 96 and an 02 spent 800 bux to have the cooling systems 'super flushed' and an intake gasket on the 96 replaced. A month later he blew the engine on the 96. I checked the oil level and it was 4 inches past full. The coolant leaked into the oil pan. A month later he had to replace the lifters on the 02. Don't remember the cost on that one.
I just ain't worth it.
Response:
1) Check your hoses for a leak if that don't get it maybe you have a small crack in your radiator
2) Check for leaks under the car. Could be caused by a hose leak, bad water pump or radiator. If you don't see any leaks check your oil dipstick, if it is a milky or gray shade it could be a cracked head or head gasket which is bad. The milky or gray shade means the coolant is leaking into your engine and mixing with the oil.
3) I used "Bars stop leak" on mine last year around this time. Worked like a charm, haven't had a problem since. I drive a 1993 Saturn SC2.
4) take it to any auto shop and ask if they can give it a presure test, it should cost little or nothing
5) Google "Dexcool". Thats the red coolant that GM started using around 95 or 96. After reading the horror stories, decide if you still want to keep the car. This stuff will eat gaskets and metal engine parts to the point where you will eventually have to replace the engine. A friend with a late 90's Caddy spent 2 grand to replace the heads, and a month later 5 grand for a new engine. The car was only two years old. Another friend with 2 Chevy vans, a 96 and an 02 spent 800 bux to have the cooling systems 'super flushed' and an intake gasket on the 96 replaced. A month later he blew the engine on the 96. I checked the oil level and it was 4 inches past full. The coolant leaked into the oil pan. A month later he had to replace the lifters on the 02. Don't remember the cost on that one.
I just ain't worth it.
Thursday, September 30, 2010
Brake problem with 1992 Chevy Lumina Car
the rear brakes on our lumina are shot we just bought the car and discovered the pads are missing and the rotors are severely rusted and pitted i do not even know if the calipers work.can the rotors be turned or is it just as well to buy new.any advice would be helpful thanks.
Response:
1) The rotors can be turned if there is enough metal left on them to be safely used. There is a minimum thickness which varies depending on the manufacturer. If you bring it to a shop, most will replace the rotors, just for the extra bux.
2) I would compare the price to buying them new. The cost of new rotors vs turning them on our van was only a $5 difference so we bought new.
3) Remember that with ABS Brakes to block the line and crack the bleeder screws before you compress and that they turn while compressing. You can rent the tool from most auto parts stores inexpesively. Myself, I'd replace the calipers just because my son has a 93 Lumina and know that they freeze up due to mounting hardware issues. The Hardware kit is cheap and easy to install to ensure safety. We replaced the rotors for $30 each(Borg), calipers were $40 each(Wagner), pads were $25 for the Lifetime Pads(Wagner).
4) I wouldn't open the bleeder screws... I'd take the cap off the master cylinder and push the cylinders back with a clamp(front) or rears turn them back with a special tool its a cube with a bunch of different prong arrangements and you turn it with a 3/8 ratchet... About 11 at most parts stores.... That way when your done its not necessary to bleed the brakes
5) You GO RIGHT AHEAD. The 1st time you have to buy a NEW Accumulator you'll have learned 1 expensive lesson about ABS Systems. And THAT Folks is WHY We block the lines and bleed off thru the bleeder screw.
Response:
1) The rotors can be turned if there is enough metal left on them to be safely used. There is a minimum thickness which varies depending on the manufacturer. If you bring it to a shop, most will replace the rotors, just for the extra bux.
2) I would compare the price to buying them new. The cost of new rotors vs turning them on our van was only a $5 difference so we bought new.
3) Remember that with ABS Brakes to block the line and crack the bleeder screws before you compress and that they turn while compressing. You can rent the tool from most auto parts stores inexpesively. Myself, I'd replace the calipers just because my son has a 93 Lumina and know that they freeze up due to mounting hardware issues. The Hardware kit is cheap and easy to install to ensure safety. We replaced the rotors for $30 each(Borg), calipers were $40 each(Wagner), pads were $25 for the Lifetime Pads(Wagner).
4) I wouldn't open the bleeder screws... I'd take the cap off the master cylinder and push the cylinders back with a clamp(front) or rears turn them back with a special tool its a cube with a bunch of different prong arrangements and you turn it with a 3/8 ratchet... About 11 at most parts stores.... That way when your done its not necessary to bleed the brakes
5) You GO RIGHT AHEAD. The 1st time you have to buy a NEW Accumulator you'll have learned 1 expensive lesson about ABS Systems. And THAT Folks is WHY We block the lines and bleed off thru the bleeder screw.
Monday, September 27, 2010
Home of the Free Alignment just a myth?
If you live in the US and ever listen to the radio you can't help but hear one of the great commercial going on and on about a free alignment with the purchase of new tires. So we want to clear the air about this free alignment business.
1) they do provide an alignment if you purchase 4 New Tires (PAY the operative word) the price is built in dummy!!
2) Did you wreck your car or have front end work done recently that requires an alignment? Probably not, so you do not need an alignment. Now you are paying more for your tire than you need to so you can get an alignment you don't need. Smart on the advertisers part. Most people do not know that they do not need an alignment.
3) Well my car is pulling? Again, if you didn"t wreck it... you just need tires replaced and no need for over priced tires to get an alignment.
How much do they charge for an alignment without purchasing tires? $69.95. So divide that by 4 and that's about $17.50 per tire. Could you buy tires for $17.50 a tire less. YES, so I am going to have to say that you are not getting a FREE Alignment. Don't let shifty advertising convince you otherwise. Stay alert when dealing with Big Brand Tire Stores.
1) they do provide an alignment if you purchase 4 New Tires (PAY the operative word) the price is built in dummy!!
2) Did you wreck your car or have front end work done recently that requires an alignment? Probably not, so you do not need an alignment. Now you are paying more for your tire than you need to so you can get an alignment you don't need. Smart on the advertisers part. Most people do not know that they do not need an alignment.
3) Well my car is pulling? Again, if you didn"t wreck it... you just need tires replaced and no need for over priced tires to get an alignment.
How much do they charge for an alignment without purchasing tires? $69.95. So divide that by 4 and that's about $17.50 per tire. Could you buy tires for $17.50 a tire less. YES, so I am going to have to say that you are not getting a FREE Alignment. Don't let shifty advertising convince you otherwise. Stay alert when dealing with Big Brand Tire Stores.
Monday, September 20, 2010
How do you tell if the belt tensioner assembly is bad?
How do you tell if the belt tensioner assembly is bad?
How do you replace it? I am still having some clattering from the tensioner pully after changing the harmonic balancer.
I am stumped again, I installed the dampner, pushed it on good and tightened the center bolt. The pulley appeared to be inline with the others, so reinstalled the belt. Started the engine and ran for 10 min. idling, then went down the road for a mile or two and back. After I got back home, I heard clanking, the belt tensioner pulley was jumping some? I took the pulley off, the bearing seemed pretty good, just a little rough, was able to inject grease into the bearings. I finally replaced the pulley with a new one, then the problem is still there???????
The tensioner pulley jumps erratically with the clanking. I don't know if it is the tensioner assembly or some other pulley grapping the belt at times?
So far the belt is not being damaged yet. The belt tensioner assembly has good tension and strong, with no slack/slop in it but it is jumping on/off as the belt is rotating.
Do you think maybe the pulleys are still out of alignment some kind of way? Is it possible that the dampner could push in too far or does the shaft key stop it properly?
Please send me some help, I don't what to replace a $125 belt tensioner assembly and the problem continues.
RESPONSE:
With the serpentine belt off, the tensioner pulley arm has zero sideways movement when pulling on it. It also has a substantial tension and recoil with the belt off. I just notice that the tensioner groans when raising it and on releasing it when installing the belt, it goes to a point and stops, then you can push it downward by hand maybe another 1/16" at times.
I am eyeing the pulley alignment and had someone with mechanical experience involving pulley drives on heavy equipment, take a look,listen. He thought everything looked normal and was rotating well now, after cycling the a/c compressor clutch off/on, trying to get some tensioner pulley chatter.
So I don't know if I can have full faith in it right now. I will put some miles on the car tomorrow around town and see if it reappears and eats another belt.
I cleaned all the drive pulleys to make sure there wasn't some of the old torn up belt debris/crud in the grooves, either making it prone to jump or grab while rotating, (a long shot effort) ???
After running for 10-15 mins. warming up, so far all is ok, I revved the engine to about 2000 rpm, up/down and no noise at all, no squealing or chattering.
How do you replace it? I am still having some clattering from the tensioner pully after changing the harmonic balancer.
I am stumped again, I installed the dampner, pushed it on good and tightened the center bolt. The pulley appeared to be inline with the others, so reinstalled the belt. Started the engine and ran for 10 min. idling, then went down the road for a mile or two and back. After I got back home, I heard clanking, the belt tensioner pulley was jumping some? I took the pulley off, the bearing seemed pretty good, just a little rough, was able to inject grease into the bearings. I finally replaced the pulley with a new one, then the problem is still there???????
The tensioner pulley jumps erratically with the clanking. I don't know if it is the tensioner assembly or some other pulley grapping the belt at times?
So far the belt is not being damaged yet. The belt tensioner assembly has good tension and strong, with no slack/slop in it but it is jumping on/off as the belt is rotating.
Do you think maybe the pulleys are still out of alignment some kind of way? Is it possible that the dampner could push in too far or does the shaft key stop it properly?
Please send me some help, I don't what to replace a $125 belt tensioner assembly and the problem continues.
RESPONSE:
With the serpentine belt off, the tensioner pulley arm has zero sideways movement when pulling on it. It also has a substantial tension and recoil with the belt off. I just notice that the tensioner groans when raising it and on releasing it when installing the belt, it goes to a point and stops, then you can push it downward by hand maybe another 1/16" at times.
I am eyeing the pulley alignment and had someone with mechanical experience involving pulley drives on heavy equipment, take a look,listen. He thought everything looked normal and was rotating well now, after cycling the a/c compressor clutch off/on, trying to get some tensioner pulley chatter.
So I don't know if I can have full faith in it right now. I will put some miles on the car tomorrow around town and see if it reappears and eats another belt.
I cleaned all the drive pulleys to make sure there wasn't some of the old torn up belt debris/crud in the grooves, either making it prone to jump or grab while rotating, (a long shot effort) ???
After running for 10-15 mins. warming up, so far all is ok, I revved the engine to about 2000 rpm, up/down and no noise at all, no squealing or chattering.
Thursday, September 16, 2010
94 Olds Delta 88, 3.8L V-6 serpentine belt replacement
My 94 Olds Delta 88, 3.8L V-6 is on a belt chewing tantrum. The old serpentine drive belt was several years old with cracks across the belt ribs. Well, it separated apart, splitting completely along the ribs last week. I replaced the belt with a new belt from O'reilly auto parts, "Master Pro" brand. I installed the new serpentine belt, making sure that the pulleys were clean of any old belt debris and according to OEM belt routing diagram. I have taken the same belt off/on this engine many times in the past so I am very familiar with the belt routing.
Now after several days of using the car for 25-50 miles. I heard clunking sounds and after raising the hood, the new belt has chewed the inner side up and nipped off a 12" long thin piece, like one rib wide.
Since the belt is shaved, it is now riding out of line from one pulley to another.
What is the cause of this belt chewing? I checked/double checked to make sure the new belt was routed and seated in the pulleys correctly.
All pulleys appeared to me ok, rotating well with no (in/out)end play.
The only other thing that I noticed was it put some holes in the under hood insulation padding and the top covering, cloth, I think was hanging down where IT POSSIBLY could have been caught in the serpentine belt, would that throw the belt off line and caused the belt damage/shave?
One other thing I will note is the engine harmonic balancer has a slight wobble but it has had that for quite a long time.
Please give me some advice on correcting this belt monster. I wouldn't want to buy a $40 better belt only to have it eaten too.
Response:
Check your Belt Tensioner out. It sounds as if it is worn out and out of line. These are available at most parts stores for around $50 and have 2 plastic inserts for the water jacket and Heater Hoses. Also most people don't look at them just the pulley. If you can see any of the internal spring, it's worn out.
Now after several days of using the car for 25-50 miles. I heard clunking sounds and after raising the hood, the new belt has chewed the inner side up and nipped off a 12" long thin piece, like one rib wide.
Since the belt is shaved, it is now riding out of line from one pulley to another.
What is the cause of this belt chewing? I checked/double checked to make sure the new belt was routed and seated in the pulleys correctly.
All pulleys appeared to me ok, rotating well with no (in/out)end play.
The only other thing that I noticed was it put some holes in the under hood insulation padding and the top covering, cloth, I think was hanging down where IT POSSIBLY could have been caught in the serpentine belt, would that throw the belt off line and caused the belt damage/shave?
One other thing I will note is the engine harmonic balancer has a slight wobble but it has had that for quite a long time.
Please give me some advice on correcting this belt monster. I wouldn't want to buy a $40 better belt only to have it eaten too.
Response:
Check your Belt Tensioner out. It sounds as if it is worn out and out of line. These are available at most parts stores for around $50 and have 2 plastic inserts for the water jacket and Heater Hoses. Also most people don't look at them just the pulley. If you can see any of the internal spring, it's worn out.
Tuesday, September 07, 2010
Vibration after Replacement of new rotors
I recently purchased 2 new rotors for my suzuki grand vitara and had my tech install the new rotors, when I drove off… I had a shake in the steering wheel when applying the brakes and it felt like the brakes was slipping when pressing on the brakes. I took off the wheel to check for oil or dirt on the rotors and didnt see any oil/dirt on the rotors. I then took it back the tech and he install the old rotors back and didnt have the problem anymore. My tech informed me that the rotors wasnt a good set and where not balance and I needed to take them back to the store and get a replacement. Was this information correct that I was told?
Response:
This is accurate information. The new rotors you had put on were no good right out of the box, it happens form time to time.
The store should Brake Article
Response:
This is accurate information. The new rotors you had put on were no good right out of the box, it happens form time to time.
The store should Brake Article
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