2003 chevy truck Air Conditioning Issue

I have dual climate controll but the driver side blowes warm air all the time. The passenger side works fine. Is there a controller somewhere and how can i get to it?

http://www.freeautomechanic.com/airconditioning.html

There is a vaccuum door in the assemble that controls cold/warm air mixture. Either the door is stuck to the heat side or the diaphram is bad. Located:Behind the dashboard you will see on the assy a thing that looks like a pancake with a vaccuum line attached to it there is also a rod that you cant see going into the heater box.

ignition help

can any one give me instructions on how to take out and put a new ignition in my 96 lincoln town car not chiped

Response:
The Ignition Switch (electrical) is located on the top of the steering column assy. So if you unbolt the column it will drop down enough to replace the switch. The Lock Cyclender Assy is different. Remove the Steering Wheel Lock Nut. Mark the Wheel and Shaft for alignment on reassembly. With a Steering Wheel Puller remove the Steering Wheel. Remove the Horn assy. Remove the Steering Wheel Lock Plate by depressing to remove the retaing clip. Remove the Turn Signal Switch assy and reveal 1 screw that holds the Lock Cylender in place. Reverse for assembly.

problem with gas gauge on 95 Buick Lesabre

The other day I had an emergency and went about 95 mph to get where I needed to be, on the way my gas gauge started jumping a lot. It had around a quarter of gas and it jumps past full and down to empty and just keeps moving. The other day we replaced radiator because the head broke on it. could that have anything to do with it? What would I need to look at?

Response:
Your Fuel Gauge has a Fuse marked Gauges in your Fuse Panel and is also connected at the Fuel Pump Relay then 4 wires continue to the Fuel Cell. 2 wires go to the Gauge and the other 2 run the Fuel Pump. Check your connections under the hood but I believe you will find the short wire harness inside the fuel cell is making intermediate connections

1996 Chevy Express van 1500 8cyl ,v8 ,350 eng. 162,000 miles

will stop after running an hour or two.replaced: 2 fuel pumps,fuel filter,fuel relay,plugs, wires,rotor, distributor, coil,spider, 57 pound of pressure from fuel pump.Continue to cut off after an hour or two.Help.

Response:
1)Have you checked your fuel pressure regulator?
2)vapor lock
3)Check Back pressure on catalytic converter
4) check for Engine codes

Freeautomechanic.com tip : Once the engine has died, check to see what is missing... spark or fuel or both, then concentrate on that circuit to determine the problem. "simplify"

1990 celica car runs ok but has a problem

I just got the car it run but water came out by the engine not radiator,just put new radiator. I don't know if is the water pump.

Response:
Best thing to do......Barrow a Cooling System Pressure Tester from your local Parts Outlet. Pressurize the System without Starting the Engine and check where the leak is. HINT, your Radiator Cap tells you what Pressure your System should run. Also, pressurize the Cap as LOW Blow off Pressure raises Coolant Temp. Coupled with a Replacement Radiator and no History of it you may have a cracked Engine Block.

1999 Chevy Tahoe running rough

The engine on my Tahoe is running rough. It idles rough when first started but after it warms up it's fine. Occasionally, while driving it will skip badly. I have replaced the fuel filter. Before I spend any more $$ on guesses, is there any one thing I should be looking at?

Response:


First, check your Engine Codes. Then check your Compression as GM V series engines are known for dropping the last cylinder on the passenger side of the engine due to valve failure and sometimes No 1 cylinder. Also note that the V8 series has a problem with blown head gaskets on the passenger side.

2000 Ford Windstar temperature control problem

When I move the temperature control nob all the way over to cold there is a clicking noise that comes from inside the temperature control panel. The clicking stops if I move it just a little bit toward warmer. Does anyone know what might be the problem?

Response:
1) Something blocking the Vent Door and striking the Fan Cage. Probably dropped down thru the Defroster on the dash. If you pull out the Blower Motor you can probably remove the item

2) This is a sign of a worn out Blend Door Actuator. This is quite common. Have it replaced and the noise should go away.

1998 Olds Silhouette abs light / brake lights act funny when abs light on

I found part numbers for a connecter and plug but can't find where to buy them.I will change them myself.


#12533714 (socket) 12101854 (connecter)

Where can I buy them?
 
Response:
1) go to www.gmpartsdirect. com and you should be able to type the part number in and maybe find it
2) goto http://www.oehq.com/

3) The REASON the light comes on is to let you know there IS a Problem.
4) Have you had the brakes checked? That is what you should do 1st. If you have and you know for sure the problem is this connection you should start by calling some of the parts stores if they can't help you try the
dealer.

'96 Tahoe DRL

My '96 Tahoe Daytime Running Lights quit. The indicator lamp on the dash is on and goes out when I press the parking brake and comes back on when I release it.


The headlight work and the manual says the DRL uses the headlights at a reduced level.
I checked the fuse to the DRL relay and it's OK. Can't find the relay though. The manual shows the fuses and relays for other things but not the DRL relay.

Anyone have a suggestion ?

Response:

Pushing on the parking brake is supposed to shut off the DRL, so you don't have to sit with your lights on when you are parked with the motor running as in winter (heat) or summer (a/c). I've had the DRL go out on my '99 Savana only to return later. I'm usually unaware if they're working or not because it's daytime and I'm not a big fan of DRL except on motorcycles where I believe they're necessary.

2006 Chevy 3500 High RPM Engine Code P0507

Customers Vehicle: 2006 Chevy G3500 Express (Box Truck)
Engine Size: 6.0L
Complaint: High Engine RPM and Check Engine Light On
Previous Work: New Map Sensor, TPS and Both Upstream O2 Sensors
Problem: Engine is idling at 3,300 rpm and will not idle down

Shop Work Performed:
1) Computer Diagnostics and Scan for Codes
    Code P0507 - Idle Air Control System RPM Higher Than Expected

Possible causes:
A vacuum leak : Leaking air intake after the throttle body, EGR valve leaking vacuum, A faulty positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve

Damaged/failed/dirty throttle body

Failed EVAP system

Failed IAC (idle air controller) or faulty IAC circuit
 
We used Brake Wash (flammable) to spray around potential vacuum leak areas and came up empty.  We hooked up a smoke machine to confirm there were no vacuum leaks and test was positive for no vacuum leaks.
 
We removed the throttle body and inspected and found an extremely clean throttle body. While it was of we cycled the key and watched the IAC valve to see if it was stuck. It looked like it wasn't moving as it should... but did move some. With our Scan tool attached, we could see the IAC circuit was not functioning as it should.
 
THE PROBLEM FOUND AND FIXED
 
We then Isolated the IAC wiring from the IAC valve and the pcm and checked continuity and found two wires had none going and if we wiggled the harness, sometimes it would. We found the two wires had broken inside less than an inch form the plug in at the IAC valve, We repaired the wiring by soldering them and tested.  FIXED!!!  Runs great and customer is happy....
 

Fiat to pay Brazil $1.5M fine for failing to recall cars hit by alleged hub glitch

Brazil's Justice Ministry has fined Fiat S.p.A. 3 million reais ($1.5 million) for failing to recall thousands of Stilo cars built after 2004 despite an alleged rear-wheel hub problem.

In a statement published on its Web site late on Tuesday, the Justice Ministry said it had decided to impose the highest fine possible under the local consumer law "given that the producer denied the existence of the problem, putting consumers' health and safety at risk."

Fiat said in a statement it would recall the cars to allay consumers' concerns but would appeal against the ministry's decision since it had found no evidence of such a problem in the Stilo vehicles.

Fiat produced 60,000 Stilo cars in Brazil between 2004 and 2008. The Justice Ministry said in the statement the problem appeared not to concern Stilo cars with an anti-lock braking system.

Fiat produces about 700,000 cars a year in Brazil.

injecter cleaners

would it be recommended to run the injection cleaners through the gas tank or should i manually do it

Response 1) I drive a '89 Dakota, purchased new, with 273,000 miles on it. I've added injector cleaner once or twice a year and have never had a problem.

Response 2) I clean my injectors twice a year. However, I know the Complete maintenance history and always use the same brand and grade of fuel. If this is a used car and you have no idea of it's history I recommend that you use a cleaner that goes directly to the Injector/s. These do a much better job than an additive to your fuel. They contain Propane and ARE under pressure. Follow the Directions CAREFULLY! And note, Injectors DO fail. They are an electrical component unless you have a True Diesel. Then they run off a camshaft.



 

1993 Olds Achieva Power Steering leak -variable or not?

I have an Olds Achieva, 1993 with the 3.3L V6 in it. The power steering has leaked since I got it, along with the oil. Come to find out the company who worked on it in Jackson didn't do the work correctly but now it's my problem. The oil filter wasn't tight, and they didn't put the power steering pump back together correctly. You could see where they wrenched on it quite a bit, but it was leaking by the sensor. I got a GM drawing, it shows 3 gaskets or seals in there, most likely O rings, but it only had 1. We replaced the 1 it originally had (before I seen the drawing) and it still leaked. We can see where 2 of them could go, but not 3.

My questions are, how do you tell if you have variable steering or not? I read during some research if it does have it, there would be a sensor, without no sensor. If this is true, mine has it. There's a sensor and a hose connected to the same area, which is where the leak is.

I also would like to know, if this sensor should spin freely? It has since we got it, and Autozone claimed there should be a clip to hold it in place. The GM drawing shows no clip, and the guy there said he didn't know if it should spin. The knob (for lack of a better word) at the end, is all tore up where you can see they took pliers to it, but it does not loosen or tighten.
My last question is, does anyone know where I can get this assembly? I called a couple junk yards, they all say it comes with the pump only, no reservoir or connections, and they won't sell me them. I am almost afraid to ask what GM wants for this thing! They wanted 50 bucks for the O rings! Any help is appreciated!

Response:
1) There are 2 types of ways for the sensor to be mounted. 1 is that it screws into the connection. The other is held in by a retaining collar. With the retaining collar the sensor itself will have o-rings to stop any fluid from escaping and will rotate with resistance when NOT running. What's the name of the shop so others avoid having these problems.
2) That would explain, or could explain, why the GM drawing shows 3 O rings and we can only see where 2 might go. It is leaking at the sensor area, so that O ring may be missing, but we've not been able to get it off of there either, and didn't want to force it. You could see where it was chewed up from pliers, so we don't know if it's broken or not, and I'm sure it'll be expensive from GM. Since they want 45 bucks for the O rings themselves and you can buy them for 3 bucks at the parts store!
I'm hoping to find another unit like it at a junk yard, and just swap it. Since I'm unsure how to fix it, what to order, how it goes together etc. I can't afford to take it to a shop, we replaced the power steering, alternator and water pump ourselves, what a chore that was!
(The Water Pump)

When cold, starts easily and immediately dies

1988 T'Bird, 3.8L. When cold, starts easily and immediately dies. Repeat 4 or 5 times, stays running but very rough idle. Wild (1-2000 RPM) fluctuations. Put it in gear, stalls. Repeat until finally under way. engine missing dramatically accompanied by wild fluctuations in RPMs. Top speed of maybe 50-55 MPH. Stop at red light, low swing of RPM fluctuation- dies. Starts right up, shift into neutral, feather the gas pedal to keep it running, light turns green drop into gear and sputter away. Problem came on rather suddenly. So far I have replaced dist cap and rotor and added injector cleaner to gas to no avail. Plugs and wires are suspect but it ran sweet right up 'til now.

Response:
The first step is to extract any check engine light codes. This can be done free and here is how to do it: Ford Trouble Codes

Once you have the codes, it may guide you to your issue. There are many things that can make this problem happen. A failing MAF Sensor, Vacuum leak, If you notice smoke.. an injector could be stuck open and giving the o2sensors false readings... the good news is that it restarts..... 

Anti-lock brake problem

Hopefully someone here can help me. I have a 2003 Chevy Astro Van and everytime I use my brakes my anti-lock brakes kick in with their grinding just as I am almost at a stop. It is really annoying. I had someone look at my brakes a few weeks ago. He told me there was nothing wrong that my brakes are all over 50% and that it's just the anti-locks working when it's slippery. Well, it happens ALL the time, even on dry blacktop. I hope this is nothing serious or expensive. Any help is greatly appreciated.


Thank you!

Response:
1) my 07 f550 does the same thing and ford dont know why but has been doing this for 170000 miles with no other problems

2) Number one cause of this issue is a failing Speed sensor. The speed sensors are located inside the front hub bearing assemblies. This means you have to replace the entire hub bearing......

Or, you can just remove the ABS fuse or Relay to deactivate the ABS system. The ABS will no longer work which means it will no longer give you a problem when it is dry out. Just won't work in the wet, icy roads either. Once you save up the money, you may want to have the ABS system fixed.

1996 lincoln town car (help)

well the car has 118 thou on it. The rear end air bags where replaced with springs and struts but the check air suspension light stays on, washer fluid light came on and shorty after every once in a while a buzzing noise comes from under the dash. some where usually when i let off the gas peddle.  i was thinking it was becouse i needed to replace the washer fluid so i did and it stopped but outta the blue a couple hours later its doing it again and honestly its driving me crazy.  Any advice would be great. annoying ringing sound coming from under the dash sounds like a ringing the ear but louder, goes away when i accelerate this is driving nuts please help...

Response:
1) Sounds like a relay. Find it while it's making the noise and you will find a part nimber on it. Go to your local parts store and have them cross reference it or go to the dealership to find out what it controls.

2) What you are describing sounds like a vacuum leak. Check your heater control harness where it cinnects.

1994 camaro z28 not starting

it was running perfect and it sat for several mths and was supposely started once in awhile i tried 1 day took me 3 days to get running it ran perfect then it sat for 8 hours and hasnt started again it wines now so i think its the starter but dont have the money to get someone to switch it for me and i am not sure if it is the only issue

Response:
1) Frozen solenoid. Tap on it with a hammer.
2) it sounds its a lose wire my car did that and after spending 800 bucks to have every part you can think of change by the shop i kept taking it too.  i finally took it some other place good year found it was just a lose wire and fix it for 30 bucks. if you take the starter off just remember to color coat which wire as to where it goes and just put it on the same as you took it off its not hard to change them i have done them before.

1996 Buick Regal acelleration problems

It has 60k miles. Had fuel filter replaced and fuel injectors cleaned about six months ago.


Recently started - when accelerating or going up at hill it will momentarily jerk.

Any ideas what might cause this?

Response:
1) Try a better grade of gas. IE Higher Octane instead of who has the lowest price. Check your owners manual for the recommended fuel octane rating. You may be suprised.
2) Get your catalytic convertor checked to and if it is bad and since the car has less than 100k on it they have to change it for free its a federal law that i learned about when i need mine changed but i was over about 1000 miles just my luck lol

dual heating and cooling sysem the passenger side turns cold and gives off nothing but COLD air

I have a '99 Grand Cherokee Limited with dual heating and cooling system. The heater works fine for a very short time (15 or 20 minutes), after which time the passenger side turns cold and gives off nothing but COLD air. How do I fix this problem?

96 Monte Carlo with a 3.4 liter motor he keeps burning up his alternator

my friend has a 96 Monte Carlo with a 3.4 liter motor he keeps burning up his alternator,he has replaced it 3 times.the 2nd one was he did not hook up the cowl for it to get air to cool it but it has happened again any ideas or maybe a cure for this would be helpful.


Response:

1) Disconnect that amp and subs.



2) Sounds like something is drawing a lot of amps. Has he been blowing fuses and replaced them with a higher amp fuse? Do any wires feel hot or warm. The fan belt could be over tighten,(this is bad for the bearings). Get it to a garage and have them check it.


3) One of the sensors is bad. Check your voltage at each sensor both cold and hot and compare to specs. Usually high voltage (battery voltage) is a cold cycle circuit. Low voltage (half battery voltage) is the run or warm circuit. This triggers the ECM to set the cycle for ignition and fuel pump. A common problem with the distributor model 4 cyl was the pickup coil and reluctor in what was known as the "Hall Effect" Ignition.
 
4) hall effect is possible. an automatic shut down relay is possible. another strange thing is the map sensor. these are all easy checks to find out no meters or other things. start with the shut down relay which is under the hood in the relay center and switch it with another relay of the same number like the ac or what ever and see if it runs when warm. for the test on the map unplug the vacuum and see if it runs (it will act flooded but it will run) if it is the map and if all else fails it can be the pick-up coil know as the hall effect. in the distributor flat plate their when cap is removed lol and have a great day.