'99 ford windstar dies while driving

so before i took my car to a Midas to change my oil and rotate my tires and did what one of there services to check hoses and belt and my check engine light ect... i knew my car was having a transmission problem and it needed a fuel injection service i drove the car like that because i cant afford to pay for replacement for a transmission for 99 ford Wind-star i had already change that transmission 2 times and there it goes it slips and has sort of hard shifts! but that's not the question the question was that in the morning when i took my sister to work before i took the car to Midas it wouldn't turn off at all but the R.P.M would just go down a little so this time in the morning after 2 days i took it has turn of on me at least 5 to six times at every stop i do and the car would shake drastically i don't know what it is can u guys help me out with a guess at least!!!

Response:
1) Start the engine and walk to the tail pipe. Can feel the exhaust under pressure, does it sound like a whistle? Now look under at the pipes and see if any are crushed or something in the tail pipe.

96 ford explorer no electrical power

went to start vehicle, starter clicked like battery was low, put charger on battery, now there is no power at all to vehicle no instruments brake lights or anything, slowly over the day the power prob got worse as I tried to start the vehicle. no power windows locks or anything. over the course of the day the battery seemed to get worse , battery charger reads battery is charged, my friend thinks a relay, could this be and if so which one?


http://freeautomechanic.com/mechanic/forum/2010/06/96-ford-explorer

2001 Audi A4 trouble starting

I have an Audi A4 2001. sometimes when I start it, after moving it, just cant start even though the radio lights came on. But after say one hour, when I try to Start the engine, it comes on.What could be the problem? And the brakes are hard to press.

Response:
Thus could be caused by a bad starter assembly. Best way to test this is to check for voltage at the starter when it will not start…. if it is getting voltage and not turning over, you guess it = replace the starter.

Brake pedal feel is firm, but brakes lack sufficient stopping power or fade
1.Check the operation of the brake booster and brake booster check valve. Replace worn or failed parts.
2.Check brake linings and brake surface areas for glazing and replace worn or damaged parts.
3.Check for seized hydraulic parts and linkages, and clean or replace as needed.
http://www.freeautomechanic.com/brakes.html

1994 camaro z28 not starting

it was running perfect and it sat for several mths and was supposely started once in awhile i tried 1 day took me 3 days to get running it ran perfect then it sat for 8 hours and hasnt started again it wines now so i think its the starter but dont have the money to get someone to switch it for me and i am not sure if it is the only issue

Response:
1) Frozen solenoid. Tap on it with a hammer.
2) it sounds its a lose wire my car did that and after spending 800 bucks to have every part you can think of change by the shop i kept taking it too.  i finally took it some other place good year found it was just a lose wire and fix it for 30 bucks. if you take the starter off just remember to color coat which wire as to where it goes and just put it on the same as you took it off its not hard to change them i have done them before.

1997 Chevy Express 1500 350 ci TBI won't start

Our van won't start, just cranks. After changing the air filter I attempted to start it and had just a click. I charged the battery, still just a click. I thought maybe a pulley had frozen up so I sprayed with lubricant. I had a friend beat on the starter and solenoid and it turned over but would not start. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Response:
If it cranks, check your fuel line to make sure gas is getting to the injectors, it sounds as possible fuel starvation.

Check your battery cables at the battery for corrosion. In fact just remove them and clean them real good. Remove negative cable first and when putting them back on, put the positive cable back on battery first!


If this doesn't help, check the cable at the starter to see if the connection is loose.

If that doesn't help, have the battery checked by load testing it, not with a hydrometer.

For it to run you need fuel, compression, and spark. If you have all 3 it should run. However, in cold weather if you dont know the age of your spark plugs, they will fail causing your engine to flood very easily. Even Fuel Injection systems as they spray a small amount of fuel before you crank. Another thing you can try on Cold Hard starts is to turn the key 3 or 4 time before cranking. You should hear the Fuel Pump running for a few seconds, turn the key off and repeat like I said 3 or 4 times. This acts like the old fashioned Choke.
If your not getting Spark, check you Engine Control Module they run $20 and up. Oh, it's under the distributor cap and also controls your Fuel Pump

1996 Saturn-Starting Problem

I have a 1996 Saturn SL1 and suddenly it won't start. It is low on gas so, my first thought was that with the severe cold yesterday had caused gasline freeze. The odd thing though, is that it isn't turning over. I put some gas line antifreeze in it and let it sit. It hasn't started yet but, I haven't tried it yet today. It has a new battery etc. Everything works. he radio, the blower, the lights all have plenty of power so, any ideas as to why it isn't attempting to turn over?


Thank you for any suggestions you may have!
 
Response:
http://www.freeautomechanic.com/nostart.html it seems to be an electrical problem. Before you do anything else make sure the blinkers work at normal pace, sometimes lights and all other electrical equipment work with a low battery, not the blinkers. Also, if the battery is not delivering sufficient power to crank the engine you should hear a ‘clicking’ noise, which is a sure sign of insufficient crank power and the battery needs to be charged and the posts cleaned and make sure they are tight.

Often, when the battery is new and fully charged the battery posts are no tight enough, or have enough corrosion –which is not always visible- to prevent from sending sufficient power to the starter. If this is the case, simply cleaning and retightening of the posts is enough to solve the problem.

If you have plenty of power and none of the above symptoms are present, the most likely alternative is a possible loose connection in the starter system.

1996 Jeep Cherokee won't start

My Jeep has a new battery and starter. The fusible link and alternator are also good but the damn thing will not start. All fuses and relays are good too. When I turn the key I get nothing, no sounds what so ever. Anyone have an idea of what it could be? we can however start the car by "shorting out" the starter from underneath the car but that is the only way we can get it to start.
http://www.freeautomechanic.com/nostart.html
Response:

Ignition switch
Neutral / park switch if the unit has automatic trans.
OR
Clutch depressed switch if manual transmission.



simple test. Run a wire from the positive battery post to the alternator output *that red wire on the back of the alternator). Try starting the Jeep. If it starts you've blown a fuse link. If not you've got other problems. With the Key on in the Run position does ANYTHING work?? Radio, Gauges???
 
Just because an item has been Replaced does not ensure that it is NOT Defective. No Power to any electrical with the Key on is a Prime example of a Wiring problem. Usually a Fusible Link on the Starter. Fusible Links look like a wire and may look fine to the eye however, like a fuse be burnt under the protective coat. This is why I asked if you have power with the key on to your accesories. If NO power simply run a wire to the Alt from the Pos on the battery and leave the key and radio on. If the radio starts as soon as the battery is connected then you have a Blown Fuse Link. Skipping steps lead you astray.
If you have power to the accesories then is it an Automatic Trans or Stick? If it's a stick check tyhe clutch Depression Switch on the top of the Clutch Pedal. Hint it's that plastic thing that has 2 wires and moves with the Clutch Pedal. If it Automatic, wiggle the shifter in Neutral while holding the key on the start position. This checks the Neutral Safty Switch.

1992 Chevy G20 Van won't restart after it gets to operating temperature

My van starts fine, drive it about 10 miles and the  check engine light comes on. After I shut it off, it takes forever to start again. I have already replaced fuel filter, fuel pump relay, and throttle body sensor. What else can it be? I'm tired of throwing parts at it.

See Response >

battery went dead I jumped battery, now only the alarm comes on when turning the ignition

I have a 1997 Ford Explorer and the battery went dead. I jumped battery, now only the alarm comes on when turning the ignition. alarm goes off, but engine won't even turn.

Answer:

Buy a new battery or charge the one you have. Remove old battery or disconnect the one you have. Turn ignition key to the "on" position and leave it there while you connect the new battery or charged battery. Start car.


With the key being on when you connect the battery the computer knows its OK to start.

my van has no power. A realtively new battery is drained, and nothing works.

my van has no power. A relatively new battery is drained, and nothing works. The van is a 2001 ford windstar there are about 100,000 miles on the van Thought the battery was drained, so we tried to hook up a fully charged battery and it drained the charged battery as well. Had the alternator replaced shortly before this problem started.

Answer:

Sounds like the alternator is either not hooked up completely ( wire unplugged) or the new alternator is bad. Alternator Testing

2006 Ford Taurus that will not start. Battery is not dead

We have a 2006 Ford Taurus that will not start. Battery is not dead, radio and lights work. Had it in, they created new keys and replaced the starter relay 2 weeks ago. Now car won't start again, even when jumped. What else could it be?

Answer:

The Starter itself could be bad. The ignition Switch could be bad. The battery cables could be loose or corroded. If the car has a Fully charged battery and a correctly installed starter and you are getting one hard click and the dash lights/head lights do not go out when it clicks. Then the engine may be locked up and you will need to confirm it isn't by putting a socket on the end of the crank shaft and turning it. If there is a click , click , click (repeated clicks) then the battery is bad ( even if it is new) If you get a short click and the dash-lights/head lights go out when this happens, then your connections at the battery are loose/dirty/corroded or the battery cables are corroded internally or where the battery cables goto the ground and or starter are loose/dirty/corroded. These are the only options unless this is a ford then you may have a failed fender mounted solenoid. No Start Diagnostics

Starter finally went out. Got the dreaded click when ignition key turned

I have a 1996 Chevy suburban. Starter finally went out. Got the dreaded click when ignition key turned. New starter put in with no problems. Connected the positive lead then when I went to connect the negative lead it sparks and you hear the starter try to engage. no key in the ignition switch. Stater checked out fine again after I took it back to have it checked. pulled the starter relay and it still did the same thing. any ideas?

Answer:

You've got wires crossed, on wrong posts, or touching. the main wire on the starter cannot touch the smaller wires on the solenoid.

My 1999 Hyundai Accent won't start

1999 Hyundai Accent

My 1999 Hyundai Accent won't start. When I turn the key there is no click , the engine doesn't even try to turn over, there's just nothing. The only thing that happens is that my inside lights go on and radio etc. So i thought it was the starter so i changed it. When i tried starting it nothing happen again beside the lights going on in the car etc. So i thought it was the battery so i got a new battery and put that in. The car started once then died out. Now its back to normal. I Try to start the car and there is no click, there's just nothing besides the lights illuminating inside the car etc. what could be the problem?? Already Tried: changing battery and starter Answer: There could be a couple of issues. Your vehicle is equipped with a starter relay (located in the engine compartment relay panel), you can try to replace that. Sometimes there other relays on-board that you can use because they are the same as.Another concern that can't be over looked are the negative and positive battery cable condition. If there is too much resistance in the cables (corrosion) the current cannot flow to the starter. There is a test called a voltage drop test. Let me know if you are interested in performing it. If not, have a professional technician do the test. Engine No Start Diagnostics

2004 Ford Focus put key into ignition and it won't turn

2004 Ford Focus

QUESTION:

'04 Focus with 28,000 miles. Problem: put key into ignition and it won't turn, steering wheel NOT locked. called local Ford dealer, said recurring problem on Focus, needs new ignition. Too expensive for me, so Ford dealer mechanic said to 'hit' the key into the ignition. It worked but now have to carry rubber mallet in car to hit key to turn ignition to start car. What's going on? Is this a recall issue? Why should a 4 1/2 yr old car with LOW mileage have this problem? I am not happy with this Focus. There have been other problems that were partially resolved. I still get very poor gas mileage but that's another problem for another time. What about this ignition problem?

Answer:

Yes this was a common problem and they did redesign the new cylinder to prevent this from going bad again. And no Ford never did issue a recall on this problem. So yes unfortunately you will have to replace the lock cylinder to prevent carrying a hammer around. And the hammer trick will not last forever. So yes I see why you are upset about the car but no company ever issues recalls every time they have a common problem they all have them. I wish you luck Steve PS there are programs that dealers are provided with the option of helping the customer out one time after the warranty has ran out. If you have a good relationship with the dealer and if you are NICE then they may help you. But they do not HAVE to.

1996 Chrysler Sebring the key is stuck in the ignition

Question: I only had 1 key to my 1996 Chrysler sebring, so about a month ago I went to a local locksmith and they made me a copy of the original key. I am not for sure, but I am guessing that my original key has a chip in it because it is a factory or dealership key w/ black top. My sebring is equipped with the anti-theft system, of which when I purchased the car used, I did not receive the key-less remote to. Anyways, my question or problem is this: I have been using the copy key for the entire month with no problems until a week ago...the key is stuck in the ignition on acc. and will NOT turn all the way to lock so I can get it out! It is STUCK and WILL NOT COME OUT!!!! What could be causing this and how do I get it out? Is it because it isn't the chip key and if so how could I use it before now without any issues? HELP!!!! ANSWER: Any Chrysler's keys with a black top do not have a chip, they are usual blank keys. Keys with a chip ( transponder) have a gray top, like this one: Your anti-theft system contains the switches that are located inside the front doors and when you turn your door lock cylinder ( driver or passenger) a switch send an ON or OFF signal to the Body controller. Your problem with the stuck key is only mechanical failure of the ignition lock cylinder. There is nothing related to a "chip" technology. You should replace the ignition lock cylinder.

theft system has locked my car down can't start it. took battery

theft system has locked my car down can't start it. took battery cables of for a few minutes, but did not help. 97 Cadillac Deville. let sit four hours, took positive cable off battery for a while, now my battery is dead used another car and booster cables for battery no luck

Answer:

There is a problem with the "passkey ll " system. The best way to diagnose that would be the "interrogator" tool. Most lock smiths will have that. There are 13 different resistance values in the diodes, (in the key) and most times it is a problem with the ignition switch sending the correct information to the decoder module. The best thing to do would be to get a lock smith to come and check it. They will normally charge about $65, which is less than the dealer, minus the tow charge. They will pinpoint what part is needed.

I have a 2002 Chevy Silverado Reg Cab 1500 and I changed the battery but it still doesn't start.

First determine what it is or isn't doing. 1) Engine turns over, but will not start 2) Engine does not turn over when attempting to start (nothing Happens except the lights do come on) 3) Clicks Once 4) Clicks repeatedly 5) No lights, no noise.... nothing 6) Starter motor spins, but does not engage Then diagnose properly. Car won't start Diagnostics

Mercury Mountaineer has plenty of battery power, but will not turn over

QUESTION:

My 1999 Mercury Mountaineer has plenty of battery power, but will not turn over - any ideas? Attempted to jump start battery - but that was not the issue. The battery is fine. It simply won't turn over, I can hear a metallic click, but the starter does not engage.

ANSWER:

If you idea of plenty of battery power is the fact that the lights and radio work then it can still be the battery. The starter requires around 250 amps where the radio only requires around 5 amps. 99% of all no starts are caused by a failed battery. You can have the battery load tested or use a battery out of another vehicle to test. Once you have ruled out the battery, the next step is to test for power at the "s" terminal (small wire) at the starter while someone holds the key in the "Start" position. If you see battery power , then you need to replace the starter. Reference Link: No Start Diagnostics

my fob doesn't work, and the car won't start. totally dead.

Question:

2008 Subaru outback : Last Sunday, my wife and I both used our key fobs at the same time, and while she was able to start the car with her key, we couldn't auto-lock it. Now, I just went to drive the car for the first time since then, and my fob doesn't work, and the car won't start. totally dead.

Answer:

If the vehicle is totally dead the problem could be the battery, that is where I would start. See if it can be jumped and if it starts see if anything was left on in the vehicle to drain the battery if nothing is noticeable have the battery tested.

My 78 ford F100 will not start.

QUESTION:

My 78 Ford F100 will not start. I have replaced coil, battery, and the electronic unit that plugs into the wiring harness for the distributor. ( I'm not sure what you call it.) My truck will turn over great but it will not fire off. What else can I check? It was running great until I turned it off at the gas station and it would not crank again. Please Help!!

ANSWER:

Looking at all you have replaced I would suspect you have overlooked the dist stator. Under your dist cap is where you will find it. It was common back on the older F 100 when you replaced the Ignition module you also replaced the stator. The stator provides the signal to make the module fire the coil.