Toyota keeping secrets??

Toyota has for years blocked access to data stored in devices similar to airline "black boxes" that could explain crashes blamed on sudden unintended acceleration, according to an Associated Press review of lawsuits nationwide and interviews with auto crash experts.

The AP investigation found that Toyota has been inconsistent — and sometimes even contradictory — in revealing exactly what the devices record and don't record, including critical data about whether the brake or accelerator pedals were depressed at the time of a crash.

By contrast, most other automakers routinely allow much more open access to information from their event data recorders, commonly known as EDRs.

AP also found that Toyota:

• Has frequently refused to provide More

1993 Olds Achieva Power Steering leak -variable or not?

I have an Olds Achieva, 1993 with the 3.3L V6 in it. The power steering has leaked since I got it, along with the oil. Come to find out the company who worked on it in Jackson didn't do the work correctly but now it's my problem. The oil filter wasn't tight, and they didn't put the power steering pump back together correctly. You could see where they wrenched on it quite a bit, but it was leaking by the sensor. I got a GM drawing, it shows 3 gaskets or seals in there, most likely O rings, but it only had 1. We replaced the 1 it originally had (before I seen the drawing) and it still leaked. We can see where 2 of them could go, but not 3.

My questions are, how do you tell if you have variable steering or not? I read during some research if it does have it, there would be a sensor, without no sensor. If this is true, mine has it. There's a sensor and a hose connected to the same area, which is where the leak is.

I also would like to know, if this sensor should spin freely? It has since we got it, and Autozone claimed there should be a clip to hold it in place. The GM drawing shows no clip, and the guy there said he didn't know if it should spin. The knob (for lack of a better word) at the end, is all tore up where you can see they took pliers to it, but it does not loosen or tighten.
My last question is, does anyone know where I can get this assembly? I called a couple junk yards, they all say it comes with the pump only, no reservoir or connections, and they won't sell me them. I am almost afraid to ask what GM wants for this thing! They wanted 50 bucks for the O rings! Any help is appreciated!

Response:
1) There are 2 types of ways for the sensor to be mounted. 1 is that it screws into the connection. The other is held in by a retaining collar. With the retaining collar the sensor itself will have o-rings to stop any fluid from escaping and will rotate with resistance when NOT running. What's the name of the shop so others avoid having these problems.
2) That would explain, or could explain, why the GM drawing shows 3 O rings and we can only see where 2 might go. It is leaking at the sensor area, so that O ring may be missing, but we've not been able to get it off of there either, and didn't want to force it. You could see where it was chewed up from pliers, so we don't know if it's broken or not, and I'm sure it'll be expensive from GM. Since they want 45 bucks for the O rings themselves and you can buy them for 3 bucks at the parts store!
I'm hoping to find another unit like it at a junk yard, and just swap it. Since I'm unsure how to fix it, what to order, how it goes together etc. I can't afford to take it to a shop, we replaced the power steering, alternator and water pump ourselves, what a chore that was!
(The Water Pump)

When cold, starts easily and immediately dies

1988 T'Bird, 3.8L. When cold, starts easily and immediately dies. Repeat 4 or 5 times, stays running but very rough idle. Wild (1-2000 RPM) fluctuations. Put it in gear, stalls. Repeat until finally under way. engine missing dramatically accompanied by wild fluctuations in RPMs. Top speed of maybe 50-55 MPH. Stop at red light, low swing of RPM fluctuation- dies. Starts right up, shift into neutral, feather the gas pedal to keep it running, light turns green drop into gear and sputter away. Problem came on rather suddenly. So far I have replaced dist cap and rotor and added injector cleaner to gas to no avail. Plugs and wires are suspect but it ran sweet right up 'til now.

Response:
The first step is to extract any check engine light codes. This can be done free and here is how to do it: Ford Trouble Codes

Once you have the codes, it may guide you to your issue. There are many things that can make this problem happen. A failing MAF Sensor, Vacuum leak, If you notice smoke.. an injector could be stuck open and giving the o2sensors false readings... the good news is that it restarts..... 

Anti-lock brake problem

Hopefully someone here can help me. I have a 2003 Chevy Astro Van and everytime I use my brakes my anti-lock brakes kick in with their grinding just as I am almost at a stop. It is really annoying. I had someone look at my brakes a few weeks ago. He told me there was nothing wrong that my brakes are all over 50% and that it's just the anti-locks working when it's slippery. Well, it happens ALL the time, even on dry blacktop. I hope this is nothing serious or expensive. Any help is greatly appreciated.


Thank you!

Response:
1) my 07 f550 does the same thing and ford dont know why but has been doing this for 170000 miles with no other problems

2) Number one cause of this issue is a failing Speed sensor. The speed sensors are located inside the front hub bearing assemblies. This means you have to replace the entire hub bearing......

Or, you can just remove the ABS fuse or Relay to deactivate the ABS system. The ABS will no longer work which means it will no longer give you a problem when it is dry out. Just won't work in the wet, icy roads either. Once you save up the money, you may want to have the ABS system fixed.

1996 lincoln town car (help)

well the car has 118 thou on it. The rear end air bags where replaced with springs and struts but the check air suspension light stays on, washer fluid light came on and shorty after every once in a while a buzzing noise comes from under the dash. some where usually when i let off the gas peddle.  i was thinking it was becouse i needed to replace the washer fluid so i did and it stopped but outta the blue a couple hours later its doing it again and honestly its driving me crazy.  Any advice would be great. annoying ringing sound coming from under the dash sounds like a ringing the ear but louder, goes away when i accelerate this is driving nuts please help...

Response:
1) Sounds like a relay. Find it while it's making the noise and you will find a part nimber on it. Go to your local parts store and have them cross reference it or go to the dealership to find out what it controls.

2) What you are describing sounds like a vacuum leak. Check your heater control harness where it cinnects.

1994 camaro z28 not starting

it was running perfect and it sat for several mths and was supposely started once in awhile i tried 1 day took me 3 days to get running it ran perfect then it sat for 8 hours and hasnt started again it wines now so i think its the starter but dont have the money to get someone to switch it for me and i am not sure if it is the only issue

Response:
1) Frozen solenoid. Tap on it with a hammer.
2) it sounds its a lose wire my car did that and after spending 800 bucks to have every part you can think of change by the shop i kept taking it too.  i finally took it some other place good year found it was just a lose wire and fix it for 30 bucks. if you take the starter off just remember to color coat which wire as to where it goes and just put it on the same as you took it off its not hard to change them i have done them before.

1996 Buick Regal acelleration problems

It has 60k miles. Had fuel filter replaced and fuel injectors cleaned about six months ago.


Recently started - when accelerating or going up at hill it will momentarily jerk.

Any ideas what might cause this?

Response:
1) Try a better grade of gas. IE Higher Octane instead of who has the lowest price. Check your owners manual for the recommended fuel octane rating. You may be suprised.
2) Get your catalytic convertor checked to and if it is bad and since the car has less than 100k on it they have to change it for free its a federal law that i learned about when i need mine changed but i was over about 1000 miles just my luck lol

dual heating and cooling sysem the passenger side turns cold and gives off nothing but COLD air

I have a '99 Grand Cherokee Limited with dual heating and cooling system. The heater works fine for a very short time (15 or 20 minutes), after which time the passenger side turns cold and gives off nothing but COLD air. How do I fix this problem?

Stereo Swap - need advice

I am trying to swap the stock AM/FM cassette deck in my wife's 2000 ford windstar van. How do you take the plastic shroud that surrounds the radio and heater out without breaking it? to expose the screws to remove the radio?

Response:

The shroud just snaps in and out. Use a plastic pry tool and pop it loose to expose the stereo mounting screws. Here is the wiring in case you need it for the swap.
2000 Ford Windstar Stereo Wiring


Constant 12V+ Green/Purple

Switched 12V+ Yellow/Black

Ground Black/Light Green

Illumination Green

Dimmer n/a

Front Speakers 6" x 8" Doors

Left Front (+) Orange/Light Green

Left Front (-) Light Blue/White

Right Front (+) White/Light Green

Right Front (-) Dark Green/Orange

Rear Speakers 6" x 8" Side Panels

Left Rear (+) Light Brown/White

Left Rear (-) Light Brown/Yellow

Right Rear (+) Light Brown/Green

Right Rear (-) Brown/Pink

96 Monte Carlo with a 3.4 liter motor he keeps burning up his alternator

my friend has a 96 Monte Carlo with a 3.4 liter motor he keeps burning up his alternator,he has replaced it 3 times.the 2nd one was he did not hook up the cowl for it to get air to cool it but it has happened again any ideas or maybe a cure for this would be helpful.


Response:

1) Disconnect that amp and subs.



2) Sounds like something is drawing a lot of amps. Has he been blowing fuses and replaced them with a higher amp fuse? Do any wires feel hot or warm. The fan belt could be over tighten,(this is bad for the bearings). Get it to a garage and have them check it.


3) One of the sensors is bad. Check your voltage at each sensor both cold and hot and compare to specs. Usually high voltage (battery voltage) is a cold cycle circuit. Low voltage (half battery voltage) is the run or warm circuit. This triggers the ECM to set the cycle for ignition and fuel pump. A common problem with the distributor model 4 cyl was the pickup coil and reluctor in what was known as the "Hall Effect" Ignition.
 
4) hall effect is possible. an automatic shut down relay is possible. another strange thing is the map sensor. these are all easy checks to find out no meters or other things. start with the shut down relay which is under the hood in the relay center and switch it with another relay of the same number like the ac or what ever and see if it runs when warm. for the test on the map unplug the vacuum and see if it runs (it will act flooded but it will run) if it is the map and if all else fails it can be the pick-up coil know as the hall effect. in the distributor flat plate their when cap is removed lol and have a great day.