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Showing posts with label Performance. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Performance. Show all posts

Tuesday, August 12, 2008

My car will not start every time

Question:
I have a 1994 Chevy S-10 with a 2.2L engine. It will not start every time I try. It does nothing when I turn the Key, the lights on the dash come on but nothing else. But, if I keep trying it will eventually crank over and start. What could be the problem?
Answer:
This is actually a classic description of a failed/failing starter assembly. What happens is on the inside of the starter there are contact points called"brushes". These contact points are what deliver electricity to the "armature"(the rotating part) and cause it to turn. When these brushes where down far enough then the cap the electricity has to jump becomes to great and makes it difficult to jump the gap.
The fix for this issue would be to have the starter replaced. The part runs about $75.00 for a remanufactured starter and around $125.00 for a new one with about an hour for labor.

Monday, August 11, 2008

Neutral - The Forgotten Gear

SAVE MONEY WITH BETTER FUEL MILEAGE
I years past we, as drivers, have relied on the "Over-Drive" gear to get us the peak fuel mileage we desired. It is true that in highway driving, Over-drive is the best gear to have your vehicle in to achieve this goal. But when it comes to city driving, Neutral can be the friend your best friend. My daily driver is a 1989 Chevrolet Corvette that has around 65,000 miles on it. It is a 6 speed manual shift. The Corvette has a 350 ci. tune port fuel injection V8 engine, and is stock. I do keep the oil changed regular and replace plugs every other year. The vehicle is equipped from the factory with a shift light that gives you the best points to shift at to achieve the best fuel mileage and also has a digital "instant average fuel mileage" meter. I had been getting around 22 mpg with my normal driving habits. Recently with the inflated fuel pricing I started paying closer attention to the shift light and my fuel mileage increased to 24 mpg. After a few fill ups and still getting 24 mpg I almost became obsessed with the fuel mileage. Being a mechanic and owning my own shop, not to mention my education in the field, i wanted to come up with a way to increase my fuel mileage further. And the most efficient way, was to continue shifting when the shift light suggests and pop the gear selector into neutral and coast as often as it permits. Yes, every down hill can be achieved with neutral (still maintaining the speed limit with in 5 mph) and my fuel mileage jumped to 26 mpg. It may not seem like much but every bit helps. I enjoy seeing the look on peoples faces when I tell them that my big V8 Corvette gets 26 mpg in the city! And I would be willing to bet that your fuel mileage can improve also by not forgetting about Neutral and the best thing is, it has no additional cost and doesn't have to be added. It has been there for years but sadly overlooked.

Thursday, August 07, 2008

2005 Chevy Silverado error code P0449 registers

Question: 2005 Chevy Silverado error code P0449 registers when cleared it comes back after a couple starts. What could be the problem Answer: This is usually a problem with the Evaporative Emission Canister Purge Solenoid. If it was me, I would do a bit of troubleshooting BEFORE replacing parts. You could just have a loose or broken wire or connector.

Thursday, July 31, 2008

my 2006 ford escape 2.3 litre 4x4 light flashes 8 times... what does it mean?

The light flashing 8 time means that the computer is getting invalid wheel speed information. This could be mismatched tires (2 new tires on one axle with 2 old tires on the other) or even 2 different size tires. Or could even be a bad wheel speed sensor. You need to get somebody with a scan tool to see if they can pull the codes for you. A parts house normally will do this for free.

Wednesday, July 30, 2008

Automotive Scan Tools - Code Reader

Professional garage technicians know well that there are a number of different great scanners available. For example, there are some great scanners that are designed to scan for air bag and ABS codes. OTC makes a great air bag and ABS scanner that can diagnose and clear all air bag, ABS, and even engine codes. When a car problem occurs, the first step is to trouble shoot the related system. Then, perform simple tests that can lead you to the cause of the malfunction and the repairs needed to correct the problem. Sometimes You need the right test equipment. There are many different automotive SCAN TOOLS to choose from. Select one that meets your needs. More Scan Tools.

Wednesday, July 23, 2008

how do i know when my clutch is going out - Toyota Tercel

Question:
I have a 1993 Toyota Tercel, how do I know when my clutch is going out. and about how much will it cost to replace it?
Answer:
If you try to accelerate in 3rd or 4th gear the engine will rev and there will be a burning smell. If the clutch pedal is grabbing high it is usually not good. The clutch kit is about $150 to $175 in the after market. You are looking at about 5 to 6 hours labor, times your local rate usually about $80 to $110 an hour.

Friday, July 18, 2008

98 Escort and drives great except when coming to a stop

Question: I have a 98 Escort and drives great except when coming to a stop and it will just about shake the fillings out of your teeth. My only remedy so far is to put it in neutral when i have to come to a stop. Does anyone know what could be the problem? Doesn't miss-fire and no other problems other than the shaking. Already Tried: Replaced spark plugs, oil, oil filter, air filter, had the front rotors turned, balanced and rotated the tires. Answer: It could be that the exhaust system is in a bind, and it is vibrating because it is not able to move freely. To remedy this would require loosening all points of the exhaust mounting and the connection to the exhaust manifold, then while loose the engine is rocked back and forth and allowed to settle (it works better if the engine mounts are also loosened to allow the engine to settle into a natural position where it is not bound up either). This process is called "neutralizing" the engine and exhaust. If the shaking is still present, it may help to replace the motor mounts. But there will always be some amount of vibration at idle on a four cylinder. Some cars are more prone to vibration than others, because the body of the car can sometimes resonate in tune with the frequency of the normal engine vibration. Compare the feel to another Escort with the same body style and engine to get an idea what is normal.

Monday, July 14, 2008

my car will cut out while driving in all gears at all rpms

Question: I have a 1994 mustang gt 5.0L 302, my car will cut out while driving in all gears at all rpms and when i push the clutch in it will rev itself to over 2k rpms and wont drop till i tap the throttle then when it drops it will only drop to 1500 then will drop to normal when i am stopped idling for 15-20 seconds. Already Tried: I cleaned the idle air control motor Answer: This high Idle is a classic description of a vacuum leak. Most common place for the leak is the PCV valve hose located at the back of the engine under the upper intake manifold.

Friday, July 11, 2008

having a problem with water getting into my gas

Question:
I have a 1985 Chevrolet Corvette, ever since i bought the car i have been having a problem with water getting into my gas tank and then the car not starting. This is not a condensation issue, because i get more water than you think. And its not a gas issue, because I get the best of the best gas, at Exxon-Mobil-Hess, do you have any idea why water is getting into my gas tank?
Answer: Aside from the obvious hole rusted in the top of the tank, there is only 1 of 2 ways water could enter it... first... bypassing the gasket for the fuel tank sending unit... secondly, if the gas cap isn't sealing properly against the filler tube. allowing water that builds up in the trough, around the filler tube, to leak into the tank.

Thursday, July 10, 2008

WHAT COULD CAUSE THE ENGINE TO STALL WHILE DRIVING - 2002 Toyota Prius

Recall ID # 06V266000 - ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING - Recall Date:JUL 19, 2006 Model Affected:2002 TOYOTA PRIUS Summary:ON CERTAIN PASSENGER VEHICLES, DUE TO IMPROPER MOLDING OF THE RESIN BODY OF THE CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENOR INSTALLED ON THE ENGINE BLOCK, ENGINE OIL MAY PENETRATE THE SEAL AND ENTER THE SENSOR WIRING CONNECTOR. THE WIRE HARNESS CONNECTOR MAY NOT BE SUFFICIENTLY ATTACHED TO THE LOCKING TAB OF THE SENSOR WIRING CONNECTOR. Consequence:ENGINE OIL INSIDE THE SENSOR WIRING CONNECTOR COULD CAUSE EXPANSION DUE TO THE HEAT OF THE ENGINE AND COULD DEFORM THE SENSOR WIRING CONNECTOR. THE CONNECTOR MAY BECOME DISCONNECTED, WHICH COULD CAUSE THE ENGINE TO STALL WHILE DRIVING AND NOT BE ABLE TO BE RESTARTED INCREASING THE RISK OF A CRASH. Remedy:DEALERS WILL REPLACE THE CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR FREE OF CHARGE. THE RECALL BEGAN ON JULY 26, 2006. OWNERS MAY CONTACT TOYOTA AT 1-800-331-4331. Potential Units Affected:34771 Notes:TOYOTA MOTOR NORTH AMERICA, INC. 60G

Monday, July 07, 2008

when accelerating the battery power dosent stay on as long as it used to

Question:
I have a Toyota Prius 2003 model when accelerating the battery power doesn't stay on as long as it used to. If going up a hill it used to kick in and help pull then going down or decelerating it would charge the bat. it is wanting to stay in charging mode longer than it used to. Where I was getting 55 mpg it is now down to 48 mpg. I have checked with a couple of dealers and all they can tell me is the numbers on the diagnostic comes up right so nothing is wrong. If I keep the accelerator moving just a we bit going up hill the electric will stay in, almost like the potentionometer is losing contact, can anyone help, or does anyone know what kicks in the electric motor is it electronic or a vacuum switch
Answer:
There was a bulletin regarding the pedal sensor/potentiometer. There are no vacuum switches involved...only sophisticated Nippondenso Control Modules.

Sunday, July 06, 2008

Lost power and wouldn't go faster than 50 mph.

Question: I have a 2000 Ford Mustang 6 cylinder. Twice it has lost power and wouldn't go faster than 50 mph. It then starts running correctly. It has been in two different shops and I've been told nothing is wrong. Any ideas on the problem? Already Tried: Replaced the fuel filter, ran diagnostics and no errors reported Answer: It is possible that your fuel pump may be not pumping enough pressure when it gets hot or when doing this concern. What you need to do first is get a fuel pressure reading if possible when this occurs. This will tell a lot about what is going on. If you find that the fuel pressure is low, below 30 psi and does not rise as you snap the throttle, your fuel pump is not operating properly. If it does OK, I might suggest taking it to the dealer, I know it cost a little more but they have a better scan tool to look at all pids, sensors and injectors and ect., and can see what is going on. If they can't make it do it at that time, they can install a ,what we call a flight recorder, and when the problem happens, you mash a button and it will record data and they can see what went on.

Thursday, July 03, 2008

Best gas mileage vehicles - top 10 in U.S.

America has been broadsided with the $4 gallon and Americans are answering back with buying more fuel efficient vehicles. The Ford F-150 used to be the number one selling vehicle for the past 17 years but not anymore. In May of 2008 that all changed. Now Honda and Toyota has surpassed the mark and have sold more Civics and Corollas than the F-150.
This is a sign to the manufactures and they are taking measures by putting more efforts into creating new Hybrids and spending more on Research for the future "Gas Savers". There strategy so far has been to make the vehicle with less weight and Hybrid Technology .
The following is a list of the Top 10 most fuel efficient vehicles in the U.S. compiled by Car and Driver :

Friday, June 27, 2008

Gas Prices - Should I worry?

Gas prices are moving upward and prices of goods along with it. Should we be worried and panic. No, not really! There are some simple things you can do to help lower your costs for fuel but ultimately the price of just about everything is destine to go up no matter what you do. What one needs to do depends on the ability to pay but this simple tips will help you save money at the pump aside from the obvious.... don't drive as much as you used to.
  1. If you drive a 1996 or newer vehicle, use the lowest octane fuel. These vehicles have an on-board computer with sensors that will allow the use of low octane fuel without causing damage to the engine.
  2. Make sure to replace the engine air filter and fuel filter to help optimize fuel efficiency.
  3. If the "Check Engine Light" is illuminated, Get the repairs done to make it go out. It may seem to run fine, but at a cost of loosing miles per gallon it may be costing you as much as $10.00 a day depending on how far you drive.
  4. Keep Your Tires Properly Inflated - Underinflated tires require more energy to roll, which translates into more frequent fill-ups. You can improve your fuel economy by about 3.3 percent if you keep your tires inflated properly, according to the DOE.
  5. Drive Sensibly - Aggressive driving (speeding, rapid acceleration and braking) wastes gas. It can lower your gas mileage by 33 percent at highway speeds and by 5 percent around town.

Tuesday, June 24, 2008

Service engine light on 2000 Mitsubishi Galant

Question:
Service engine light on 2000 Mitsubishi Galant came on. I have a little under a 1/2 tank of gas. It suddenly started choking about 5 months ago periodically when i press the gas pedal then later that afternoon the check engine light came on. Already Tried: Clean the fuel line. Change oil. Put premium gas.
Answer:
The ONLY way to know why the check engine light came on and most likely the cause of your issue it to Extract the codes with a Scan Tool. This can be done for FREE at Autozone.

Monday, June 16, 2008

problem with the A/C on my 2005 Honda CRV

Question: I am having a problem with the A/C on my 2005 Honda CRV ex. It cuts out with no load on it and the air comes tepid and there are awful smells at times. When i am going up hill and am pushing on the gas, I can feel the car feel like it is dragging and not wanting to go then it decides to take off. What is the problem? Answer: OK, sounds like the a/c is overcharged which can be the cause of all your concerns this will cause the engine to struggle so you need to have the a/c checked first . Air Conditioning Step by Step Diagnostics

Saturday, May 31, 2008

What is the most hp I can get from a 350 with a TBI system

Question: I have a 1993 Chevrolet caprice 5.7. What is the most hp I can get from a 350 with a TBI system. i have been told 535 hp and 500ftlb of torque is this true? I am trying to build a car that is street-able and pushes out upward of 700hp. I have turned the 350 into a 383 stroker what else could I do? Answer: The Answer is easy. Bolt on a Nitrous Kit or a turbo. I would go with the Nitrous. You can add a 150 hp on stock pistons and 200 hp on forged pistons, depending on what you have already in your Stroker.

Wednesday, May 28, 2008

Fuel Pressure for Honda Accord

Question: What is the recommended fuel pressure for a 1996 Honda Accord lx 2.2L ? Answer: With the vacuum hose disconnected : 39-46 PSI With vacuum hose connected : 30-37 PSI

Monday, May 26, 2008

I need the IMRC - Code P1358

Question:
I need the IMRC for a 1998 Lincoln continental and Ford says I need an IMRC. And Ford says they don't make the part anymore. What should I do?
Answer:
IMRC- INTAKE MANIFOLD RUNNER CONTROL
Generally the hose is what breaks. Watch the video (follow link) below for a great explanation. This is a different vehicle but still applies to your issue. Example Video of explanation the pipe color is blue, this can be seen (on my engine) on the left hand side of the manifold below the primary battery fuse box, towards the back. it can be pulled off. the pipe (blue) shares its rubber boot with another pipe. the way I checked to see if i could open the manifold flaps (rails) was to put a plastic drinking straw into the rubber boot leading to the blue pipe and suck on it. Doing this I could hear the flaps snap shut when i stopped sucking( all this without the engine running). If you can hear them moving then there is a problem with no vacuum. If they do not move then it will be a big strip down, lower manifold off to get to them. Sometimes they build up carbon and stick and just need to be cleaned. If you actually need the part, you are looking at contacting salvage yards in your area.

Thursday, May 22, 2008

Is there a difference between regular and premium gas?

Question: I was wondering if there is a difference between regular and premium gas...b/c if you think about it...some gas stations only have one pump with 3 selections of gas...wouldn't u think it comes from the same pipe. and when the gas truck comes he fills up the main storage tank and u don't see 3 sections on the gas truck that has 1 section for regular, one section for medium grade..and one section for premium....and i guess the truck comes once a week to fill up their storage tank...so what do you guys think?? Answer: There is a misconception in the world that high octane fuel will make your car go faster or run better. This is not true. The octane rating only rates the fuel’s resistance to engine knocking. Knocking or pinging is a sound that an engine makes when the air-fuel mixture in the combustion chambers ignites too early. (Also known as predetination). Although slight knocking or pinging won’t damage your engine, loud knocking can cause damage and should not be allowed to continue. It can actually burn a hole right through the piston over time. The solution is to use a high octane fuel, which is actually more difficult to ignite, despite the misconception that high octane fuel is more powerful. When the fuel is more difficult to burn, early ignition is eliminated, and with it the knocking or pinging. The octane level required by an engine is determined by its compression ratio: higher-compression engines require higher-octane fuel. For example, a basic sedan generally only requires the standard octane fuel offered at gas stations, while a high-performance sports car or race car may require a high octane fuel. The owner’s manual lists information on the type of fuel you should use in your car. The reason behind this , the more advanced the engine timing can be, the more power the engine can produce. In most engines today the timing is controlled by the computer that receives a signal from a knock sensor. The engine will only advance the engine timing up to the point of knocking. So if you raise this point with higher octane, then the computer will allow the engine timing to advance further than using lower octane thus delivering more power. Gas stations typically offer three different octane levels of fuel: regular, mid-grade, and premium. The regular grade generally has the octane level required by most cars, and mid-grade and premium are each a step up. Then, of course, there is the super high octane fuel available at race tracks, which is designed for the extremely high compression ratios that race car engines have. Pretty much all of the fuel grades commercially available have cleaning additives in them, so you need not choose a high octane fuel with the idea that it will clean your engine better. You can run low octane fuel in cars that are 1996 and newer but you will not receive the expected fuel mileage as you would get with higher octane fuel. And if your car has a higher compression ratio you can cause damage to the engine no matter the year of the vehicle.