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Friday, February 20, 2009

2007 Jeep Wrangler X Unlimited and it is a 4x2

2007 Jeep Wrangler X Unlimited
I purchased a 2007 Jeep Wrangler X Unlimited and it is a 4x2. a Mechanic friend of mine was going to assist in converting it into a 4x4. Short story, we have fallen out and I have no knowledge of completing this job. My question is would this conversion be as simple as swamping out the front axle with Dana 44 purchased from MOPAR? Please advise on specific parts I would need to complete the Job

Sunday, February 15, 2009

Air Powered Cars - 100 mpg - MDI FlowAIR

MDI FlowAIR
MDI FlowAIR will top the equivalent of 100 mpg, cost less than $18,000, and arrive in the United States next year.
Last summer, when gas prices revved past $4 per gallon and consumers starved for any alternative to petroleum, a glut of gas-free prototypes started making headlines. These weren't hybrids, or even all-electric cars. From water to wind and from the sun to the air, these one-hit wonders would allegedly ride on little more than the earth's elements. But they still had a few kinks to work out. This was, after all, the holy grail of the automotive world at the time: driving beyond gasoline. But the automotive world has turned upside down — or maybe just down — in the months since. The major car manufacturers are desperate to stay afloat and build a battery-based hybrid that can save their proverbial bacon. In this economy, the research dollars for the next generation of alternative-fuel vehicles — hydrogen, diesel, even ethanol — have dried up faster than you can say "economic stimulus package." With more time to develop their miracle wheels, can non-Detroit startups save the car industry with pie-in-the-sky technology that doesn't depend on gas — or even necessarily cost a lot to buy? Or are these futuristic rides as overhyped as a solar-powered Prius? Let's take a look at some 'elemental' cars, debunking the myths and rewarding the stars of so-called naturally powered vehicles.
AIR MDI FlowAIRHow it works: Developed by ex-Formula One engineer Guy Nègre, this French minicar will top the equivalent of 100 mpg, cost less than $18,000, and arrive in the United States next year, says its American distributor. MDI's dual-energy engine uses pressurized air to power its motor by pushing the pistons round and round to turn the vehicle's crankshaft, just like a typical internal-combustion engine — only without the explosion of fuel. While this is good enough for slow speeds (up to 35 mph), it doesn't provide enough giddyup for highway driving. That's where the "dual" part comes in. Compressed air still runs the engine, but it is preheated externally just before entering the piston chamber. This hot external combustion of the adjuvant fuels, such as typical gasoline or even vegetable oil, provides expansion for the compressed gases and acts as a pressure multiplier, increasing the total applied pressure of the compressed air to the pistons.

Defrost only on high and still wont clear up.

2001 LHS. Windows are fogging up in back. Defrost only on high and still wont clear up. Driver only in car and nothing wet inside. Does this model have an air exchange door that I can get at to check if it is stuck?
Answer:
You have it correct, the recirculation door for outside air is stuck closed and not allowing air to come in causing the fogging condition. The motor for this door is on the passenger side of the heater box. I believe that you can see this if you take the glove box out, but it has been a long time since I've worked on one of these for this issue. It is motor number 2. As I looked at the instructions it says the dash has to come out to get to this motor.

Tuesday, February 10, 2009

2002 lexus es 300 with a3.0 liter engine that has a trouble code p0031

2002 Lexus ES300
Question: I have 2002 Lexus es 300 with a3.0 liter engine that has a trouble code poo31 I would like to know which sensor this is ? I failed emission test want to know which 02 sensor needs to be changed Answer: this is a fuel metering problem....if the car is not idling right ..you may need to remove the IAC valve[idle air control] and clean the carbon out of the valve and the throttle body..then reinstall...usually this will fix this code......also check for a vacuum leak

Sunday, February 08, 2009

I need auto repair manual information for a canister purge valve

I have a 1995 Ford F-150 302 V-8 and need auto repair manual information for the canister purge valve, canister purge valve failure Response: COMPONENT TESTING Fig. 1: A manifold vacuum gauge can be used to check the evaporative canister components

Canister Purge Regulator Valve 1) Disconnect the hoses at the purge regulator valve. Disconnect the electrical lead. 2) Connect a vacuum pump to the vacuum source port. 3) Apply 5 in. Hg (16.9 kPa) to the port. The valve should hold the vacuum. If not, replace it. Canister Purge Valve Apply vacuum to port A. The valve should hold vacuum. If not, replace it. Apply vacuum to port B. Valves E5VE–AA, E4VE–AA and E77E–AA should show a slight vacuum leak-down. All other valves should hold vacuum. If the valve doesn't operate properly, replace it. Apply 16 in. Hg (54 kPa) to port A and apply vacuum to port B. Air should pass. On valves E5VE–AA, E4VE–AA and E77E–AA, the flow should be greater than that noted in Step 2. NOTE: Never apply vacuum to port C. Doing so will damage the valve. If the valve fails to perform properly in any of these tests, replace it. REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Carbon Canister Fig. 1: Remove the hoses, then unscrew the canister from its mounting Disconnect the negative battery cable. Label and disconnect the vapor hoses from the carbon canister. Remove the canister attaching screws and remove the canister. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Fuel Tank Vapor Orifice and Rollover Valve Assembly Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the fuel tank as described in Section 5. Remove the vapor orifice and rollover valve assembly from the fuel tank. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Purge Control Valve Disconnect the negative battery cable. Label and disconnect the hoses from the purge control valve. Remove the purge control valve. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Purge Solenoid Valve Disconnect the negative battery cable. Label and disconnect the hoses from the purge solenoid valve. Disconnect the electrical connector from the valve. Remove the purge solenoid valve. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Fuel Bowl Solenoid Vent Valve Disconnect the negative battery cable. Label and disconnect the hoses from the fuel bowl solenoid vent valve. Disconnect the electrical connector from the valve. Remove the fuel bowl solenoid vent valve. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Fuel Bowl Thermal Vent Valve Disconnect the negative battery cable. Label and disconnect the hoses from the fuel bowl thermal vent valve. Remove the fuel bowl thermal vent valve. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Pressure/Vacuum Relief Fuel Cap Unscrew the fuel filler cap. The cap has a pre-vent feature that allows the tank to vent for the first 3⁄4 turn before unthreading. Remove the screw retaining the fuel cap tether and remove the fuel cap. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. When installing the cap, continue to turn clockwise until the ratchet mechanism gives off 3 or more loud clicks.

Monday, February 02, 2009

2010 Hyundai Genesis Coupe - Performance with Style

2010 Hyundai Genesis Coupe
GENESIS COUPE SPECIFICATIONS • Configuration: Front engine, rear-wheel drive • Wheelbase: 2820 mm / 111.0 inches • Overall length: 4630 mm / 182.3 inches • Overall width: 1865 mm / 73.4 inches • Overall height: 1380 mm / 54.3 inches • Wheels: 18-inch or 19-inch five-spoke • Engine types: 3.8-liter V6 or 2.0-liter 4-cylinder turbo • Est. horsepower V6: 306 @ 6,000 rpm (regular fuel) • Est. horsepower V6: 310 @ 6,000 rpm (premium fuel) • Est. torque V6: 263 lb. ft. @ 4,700 rpm (regular and premium fuel) • Est. horsepower 2.0t: 212 @ 6,000 rpm (regular fuel) • Est. horsepower 2.0t: 223 @ 6,000 rpm (premium fuel) • Est. torque 2.0t: 217 lb. ft. @ 2,500 rpm (regular and premium fuel) • Block & head materials: aluminum for both engines • Valvetrain: DOHC for both engines • Valve timing: continuously variable valve timing for both engines (Dual for 2.0t) • Estimated 0-60 mph V6: under 6 seconds • Transmission types: 6-speed manual, 5-speed automatic (4-cylinder) or 6-speed manual, 6-speed automatic (V6) • Front brakes: 12.6-inch (standard) 13.4-inch (Brembo package) • Rear brakes: 12.4-inch (standard) 13.0-inch (Brembo package) • Front calipers: single piston floating (standard), monobloc four-piston (Brembo package) • Rear calipers: single piston floating (standard) monobloc four-piston (Brembo package) • Limited slip differential (Optional) • Est. top speed: 149 mph (V6), 137 mph (2.0t) • Base curb weight: 3549 lbs. (V6); 3439 lbs. (4-cylinder)

Saturday, January 31, 2009

My low coolant light came on, What could it be ?

My son's 2000 Saab 95 SE said engine coolant low so he added coolant. Here it is 2 days later and it is saying it again. When he filled it the first time he saw that there was still some coolant in the reservoir but it was low.. Any ideas how serious it could be?
Answer:
I would check two things.
1. Is there enough coolant. If there is not enough coolant again you need to check if the coolant is leaking out. You can rent a pressure tester from Autozone to find leaks. It's very simple to use and very effective. It's a radiator cap with a hand held pump attached, you take your cap off and attach the pump. Then pump and listen for leaks (done with car off so leaks are easy to find).
2. Coolant level sensor. If you have enough coolant, yet the light is still coming on then the sensor is bad. The sensor should be located on the reservoir, if you have coolant then it's giving a false reading.

Tuesday, January 27, 2009

I have A 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee reading code p1281

I have A 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee reading code p1281 what is it and how do I fix it . I know it is a factory direct code it says fuel air metering p1281
Answer:
This code actually means the engine stays cold too long. This could be caused by extremely cold weather, malfunctioning ECT sensor, or a thermostat that does not let the engine warm up. In most cases, replacing the thermostat will fix this issue.
SYMPTOM P1281-ENGINE IS COLD TOO LONG WHEN MONITORED The ignition key on, engine running, Ambient Temperature greater than 20°F ; and Vacuum is less than 17 inches Hg . SET CONDITION The engine does not warm to 85°C (181°F) while driving for more than 3 minutes and less than 1 hour depending on Engine load and Start up Temperature

Sunday, January 25, 2009

2003 Buick Century and the light that shows the odometer

I have a 2003 Buick Century and the light that shows the odometer and what gear you are in is burned out. How does one replace it? It looks like to me that I would have to take the top dashboard off to replace it. What light bulb would I need?
Answer:
you would have to replace the entire instrument panel cluster since the lights are not serviceable for the odometer and PRNDL display. I can provide instructions to replace the instrument panel cluster if you wish but you will likely have to get a cluster from a dealership.

Saturday, January 24, 2009

1996 Chrysler Town & Country started making a noise after I hit a pothole

My 1996 Chrysler Town & Country started making a noise after I hit a pothole and thought my tire was flat. Tires are fine, but they still make a small thud noise. There is no real noise when I accelerate, however, as soon as I take my foot off the gas, it makes a very loud growling sound like sticking something metal in a fan blade would sound. Thought is was CV joints, but everything I'm reading says the noise happens when you accelerate, not when you stop accelerating. What do you think?
Answer:
That sounds like your exhaust is hitting the frame. When the car decelerates the motor tilts back, the can cause the exhaust to rub or bad against the frame or car. There are rubber hangers that are supposed to prevent this from happening, but they tend to wear out. I would check all the hanger of the exhaust as well as the transmission mount and motor mounts. All these are rubber and known to go bad, which would cause noise while decelerating.