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Showing posts with label Maintenance. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Maintenance. Show all posts

Wednesday, January 30, 2008

Car Won't Start

Don't Let this happen to you. Pay attention to your gas gauge on your way home. Make it a habbit and it will help you avoid an unwanted situation. Yes. All the car needed was Gas !!

Wednesday, January 16, 2008

service a bmw 325xi

Question: How much does it cost to service a bmw 325xi and change the belts Answer: If you take it to a dealer, it may cost you $90.00 for oil change and $130.00 for the belt. A local shop will be what ever there going price is for oil changes, My shop charges $24.95 for an oil change that includes topping off fluid levels and $65.00 for the belt. My shop does not charge for shop supplies or disposal fees. Some shops do. Average is $35.00 for oil and $70.00 for belt.

Sunday, December 30, 2007

Anti-freeze - Which one is right for you?

Anti-freeze : Antifreeze is used in internal combustion engines, and for many other heat transfer applications, such as electronics cooling and chillers for HVAC. Compounds are added to water to reduce the freezing point of the mixture to below the lowest temperature that the system is likely to be exposed to, and to inhibit corrosion in cooling systems which often contain a range of electrochemically incompatible metals (aluminum, cast iron, copper, lead solder, etc.).
Now we know the technical meaning , but What anti-freeze is right for your car?
There is the old style that is green in color and is used in most cars from 1996 and older. GM uses Dex-Cool which is orange in cooler on its newer vehicles. Ford uses Yellow and Honda uses red and so on.... This can be confusing at times. But remember one thing. You can not mix green with any other color or it may cause damage to the engine and other cooling/heating system components.
You should try to use like colors with the different vehicles and if it says use Dex-Cool only... then use Dex-Cool only.

Thursday, December 27, 2007

Spark Plugs -

The spark plug theory: It forces electricity to arc across a gap, just like lightning. The electricity must be at a very high voltage in order to travel across the gap and create a good spark. Voltage at the spark plug can be anywhere from 40,000 to 100,000 volts. The spark plug must have an insulated path for this high voltage to travel down to the electrode, where it can jump the gap and, from there, be conducted into the engine block and grounded. The plug also has to withstand the extreme heat and pressure inside the cylinder, and must be designed so that deposits from fuel additives do not build up on the plug. Spark plugs use a ceramic insert to isolate the high voltage at the electrode, ensuring that the spark happens at the tip of the electrode and not anywhere else on the plug; this insert does double-duty by helping to burn off deposits. Ceramic is a fairly poor heat conductor, so the material gets quite hot during operation. This heat helps to burn deposits from the electrode. How often do you need to change them ? If your car's engine is equipped with a carburetor, then you will need to replace the spark plugs about once a year or every 15,000 miles. For Fuel Injected engines before 1996 the plugs will need to be replaced every two years or every 30,000 miles. For Fuel Injected engines that are 1996 or newer, the spark plugs will only need to be replaced every 80,000 to 100,000 miles.

Friday, December 07, 2007

Where Do I Get Automotive Wiring Diagrams

There are several was to get a automotive wiring diagram. You can google "free auto wiring diagrams" and sift through the long list of sites that advertise "free" but don't really mean it. I have found only one site that you can actually get a free wiring diagram. That site is Freeautomechanic.com and yes it is one of our own sites. It may take a while to get it, but hey.... its free right. Now if you are in a hurry, and need one right away. Click the link for wiring diagrams on the right side of this page or follow this link >>wiring diagrams<< . You will choose your year, make and model and receive all the wiring diagrams for the entire vehicle along with all the repair and diagnostics available for your car for as little as $9.99. This is the same software that the dealers use in there shops. If you are a do it yourself-er this is a dream come true. You won't believe all the information you get. They even include Factory recall information and TSB's (Technical Service Bulletins). This is the place to go.Use Buzzfuse* to easily rate, review, and share this item

Wednesday, December 05, 2007

What Kind Of Oil Should I Use ?

One thing to consider is all major brand oil is certified. They are similar as far as meeting the certification requirement. If you change your oil regularly, it really doesn't make a difference which brand you choose. As fro the weight ex. 10w40,5w30) . You will want to use the manufacturer recommended oil weight. The weight of the oil is the last number. The First number is related to what temperature it is good for. So if it is colder out you will want to use 5w30 and in warmer climate, the 10w30 is better.
Synthetic oil is superior to conventional oil. Synthetic oil lasts longer before it starts to break down. Synthetic oil also leaves a thin coating on the cylinder walls to help prevent damage at initial start up.

Tuesday, December 04, 2007

Engine Sludge

Sludge is a thickening and breakdown of the oil as it deteriorates, as moisture and contaminants build up. This causes the oil to gel, resulting in excess wear as friction increases or, in extreme cases, a stop-right-now failure. Thousands of owners of vehicles of popular brands like Chrysler, Dodge, Toyota, Lexus, Volkswagen, Audi and Saab have had sludge problems. Chrysler has a serious sludge problem with the 2.7-liter V-6 engine used on some of its Concordes and Sebrings and also on some Dodge Intrepids and Stratus in the 1998-2002 model years, said Clarence M. Ditlow, executive director of the Center for Auto Safety. Mr. Ditlow said the center’s Web site (autosafety.org) had about 2,800 complaints of failures from sludge. A lack of adequate oil changes is the explanation for damage given by Audi, Lexus, Saab, Toyota and VW. Yet unlike Chrysler and Dodge, those automakers have formal compensation programs for sludge damage, although in some cases consumers must provide detailed service records — and in the case of Saab, must have used oil filters sold only by the company.

Monday, December 03, 2007

My Coolant Light is On, What should i do ?

The Coolant light illuminates on the dash to let you know your coolant, also known as anti-freeze, is low. There is a level sensor in the coolant overflow tank. So when the coolant level gets low the light will illuminate on the dash.
What you will need to do is check the fluid level once you get where you are going and the vehicle has had a chance to cool down. Also check the radiator level (do not do this when it is hot) . Top off the coolant level in both the radiator and in the overflow tank. Make sure if you are using concentrate to mix it 50/50 with water. Once you have done this you should be ok to drive it to your local auto shop and have the coolant system pressure tested to make certain there are no leaks.

Saturday, December 01, 2007

How Do I Check My Flat Tire For Leaks ?

If you think you have a leak in a tire, check out the valve stem on the tire before you take it to a mechanic.
To determine whether the core of the valve stem is leaking, remove the cap and use your finger to apply a little soapy water around the valve. If bubbles form, the core is leaking and needs to be replaced. You can get a new core and a valve-repair tool at any auto-parts store.
Here's how to replace the valve: 1) Carefully jack up the car so you can let the air out of the tire. 2) Unscrew the valve using the repair tool. 3) Safety tip: Be careful! The valve can fly out just from the pressure in the tire. 4) Screw the new core in place and refill the tire with the proper amount of air. Then retest to make sure the new valve core is functioning properly. If it is, put the valve cap back in place.

Wednesday, April 04, 2007

BELTS AND HOSES

Your belts drive critical systems of your car, including your alternator which recharges your battery, your water pump which keeps your engine cool, your air conditioner which keeps you cool, and your power steering pump. If a belt breaks, the effects can range from the simple inconvenience of not having your air conditioning to leaving you stranded in traffic to overheating and ruining your engine.V-belts will typically last three years or 30,000 miles. Serpentine belts will go farther, lasting five years or 50,000 miles. Belts will sometimes show visible signs of age before they break, including cracking, fraying, and glazing. Modern belts often show no visible signs of deterioration before they break, however.
Like belts, hoses harden, split, or soften with age. Sometimes the aging is visible. Often, however, there are no outward signs of problems before a hose bursts or starts leaking. According to one study, internal corrosion caused by electrochemical reactions in the cooling system is the leading cause of hose failure. Hose manufacturers recommend replacing hoses every four years.
Many of the cars on the road today have timing belts. They keep the valves and pistons in your car in synch. These belts take the place of a timing chain. The advantage is that they are lighter and more fuel efficient. The drawback is that they wear out quicker. Like a fan belt, a timing belt needs to be replaced before it breaks. The timing belt needs to be replaced every 50,000-60,000 miles on most cars, but the exact interval depends on the make and model of your car.If you wait too long and your belt breaks while you are driving down the road, your engine loses its coordination. This can have horrible results. Your pistons may hit your valves, causing major damage to the head of your engine. It is common for repair bills to run $1000 to $2000 for this problem. Replacing your timing belt is one maintenance item you never want to skip.

Wednesday, March 07, 2007

Oil Changes

Performing your own automotive oil change will save you money!
The most important service to maintain your vehicle is an automotive oil change. Engine oil is the life blood of your vehicle, and if changed on a regular 3000 mile interval, it will keep your automotive engine running for years. While oil keeps things lubricated, the oil filter keeps out the impurities, so the oil filter needs to be changed at every interval. Always consult your repair manual for proper oil quantity and the proper oil filter when performing an automotive oil change. Always remember the most important rule when performing any repair service is SAFETY FIRST!
Most automotive manufacturers will suggest that you do an automotive oil change between 5000 and 7500 miles, but I would only recommend that interval for synthetic oil. The maintenance schedules that they publish have two options, standard and extreme. Most consumers think that the standard schedule is fine no matter where you live, but 75% of the world lives in the extreme, hot,cold,city driving,etc! So lets stick to an automotive oil change every 3000 miles
Let's look at a comparison of paying a shop as opposed to performing your own automotive oil change....
Repair shop: Standard oil change $35.00 to $40.00 Synthetic oil change $65.00 to $85.00
Do it yourself: Standard oil Change $20.00 or less. Synthetic oil change $35.00 or less.

Tuesday, January 30, 2007

VW P3801

VolksWagon Check Engine Light Code "19537 4C51 P3081 Engine temperature too low" That DTC is indicative of a missing thermostat, a stuck open thermostat, or a cooling system with 100% antifreeze. It is NOT associated with a defective ECT G62. When the coolant temperature is too low, that does not necessarily mean a sensor failure. Sounds like the sensor is telling you the truth. Watch the temperature on the scan tool as the engine warms up. Look for things that keep it from warming up. Things like radiator fans on all the time, straight anti-freeze, stuck open thermostat and so on. That is what it means. It means a system problem, not necessarily a component failure. More....

Sunday, January 28, 2007

Brake Pad Break In Procedure

BRAKE PAD BEDDING IN PROCEDURE To ensure maximum performance and customer satisfaction, new brake pads must be bedded in upon installation. Correct bedding guarantees that new brake pads and new rotors work flawlessly together. In order to function optimally, organic brake pads must develop friction coal on its surface. This friction coal develops at a temperature of approximately 280°C (537°F). It is very important that this temperature is reached continuously and slowly. This gradual process generates temperatures that not only penetrate the surface of the brake discs and pads, but also distribute evenly through the whole disc and pad material. This is essential when using new brake discs, since the disc often shows signs of stress (due to the casting process and fast cooling) in the materials. A steady and careful warming and cooling process guarantees a good release of both materials. The bedding in/break in procedure should be done as follows: Drive at approx. 35 mph (60 kmh) for about 500 yards (solid front discs) to 800 yards (vented front discs) while slightly dragging the brakes (i.e. light brake pedal pressure). This process allows the brake temperature to slowly and evenly build up to 300°C (572°F). Now, if possible, drive about 2200 yards maintaining the same speed without braking. This will allow the pads and discs to cool down evenly. After this cool-down, perform a normal brake application from 35 mph to 0. No panic stops! Now, the friction surface has evenly developed friction coal, the pads have bonded with the disc surface, and tensions in the disc materials will have disappeared. Only trained master mechanics should perform this procedure before delivering the vehicle to its owner. Do not expect your customer to properly finish your brake job! This bedding process is only suitable for the front axle - not the rear. This is due to the brake force distribution of front and rear axles. In order to reach 300°C (527°F) on the rear pads you would have to drive several miles with dragging brakes. However, in that time the front brakes will be glowing red, overheating and thus destroying the front brakes. Final note – don’t forget to clean hubs and check the wheel bearings. Also, the brake fluid should be replaced at least every 2 years.

Friday, January 12, 2007

Radial Tires, What does it mean ?

RADIAL The simple definition of a Radial type tire: The radial is a type of tire that is constructed with rubber coated, reinforcing steel cable belts that are assembled parallel and run from side to side, bead to bead at an angle of 90 degrees to the circumferential centerline of the tire. (As opposed to the 30 degree alternating application lengthwise as in bias ply tires). This makes the tire more flexible which reduces rolling resistance to improve fuel economy. Then numerous rubber coated steel belts are then constructed into the "crown" of the tire under the tread to form a strong stable two-stage unit. Performance and purpose of Radial tires Radial tires are the preferred tire of choice in most applications for several key reasons. The combination of steel stabilizing belts in the single-layer radial casing allows the tread and sidewall to act independently. The sidewall flexes more easily under the weight of the vehicle and its cargo, while the tank-track type tread provides even contact with the ground. Greater vertical deflection is achieved with radial tires. This is desirable because extreme flexing greatly increases resistance to punctures. To increase a radial tire's strength, larger diameter steel cables are used. Larger steel cables can help reduce punctures, tears and flats. Larger steel cables also help distribute heat, resulting in a cooler running tire and improving fuel economy. Unlike bias ply tires larger steel cables have little negative affect on performance. The parallel stabilizing steel belts of the radial minimize tread distortion. As the sidewalls flexes under load, the belts hold the tread firmly and evenly on the ground or object and thus minimizing tread scrub and greatly increasing tread life. When cornering the independent action of the tread and sidewalls keeps the tread flat on the road. This allows the tire to hold to its path. When offroad, the radial tire's stabilizing steel belt design aids in greater traction by holding the tread evenly over obstacles allowing the tread of the tire to have a better chance of finding traction.

Radial Tires, what does it mean ?

RADIAL The simple definition of a Radial type tire: The radial is a type of tire that is constructed with rubber coated, reinforcing steel cable belts that are assembled parallel and run from side to side, bead to bead at an angle of 90 degrees to the circumferential centerline of the tire. (As opposed to the 30 degree alternating application lengthwise as in bias ply tires). This makes the tire more flexible which reduces rolling resistance to improve fuel economy. Then numerous rubber coated steel belts are then constructed into the "crown" of the tire under the tread to form a strong stable two-stage unit. Performance and purpose of Radial tires Radial tires are the preferred tire of choice in most applications for several key reasons. The combination of steel stabilizing belts in the single-layer radial casing allows the tread and sidewall to act independently. The sidewall flexes more easily under the weight of the vehicle and its cargo, while the tank-track type tread provides even contact with the ground. Greater vertical deflection is achieved with radial tires. This is desirable because extreme flexing greatly increases resistance to punctures. To increase a radial tire's strength, larger diameter steel cables are used. Larger steel cables can help reduce punctures, tears and flats. Larger steel cables also help distribute heat, resulting in a cooler running tire and improving fuel economy. Unlike bias ply tires larger steel cables have little negative affect on performance. The parallel stabilizing steel belts of the radial minimize tread distortion. As the sidewalls flexes under load, the belts hold the tread firmly and evenly on the ground or object and thus minimizing tread scrub and greatly increasing tread life. When cornering the independent action of the tread and sidewalls keeps the tread flat on the road. This allows the tire to hold to its path. When offroad, the radial tire's stabilizing steel belt design aids in greater traction by holding the tread evenly over obstacles allowing the tread of the tire to have a better chance of finding traction.

Tuesday, January 09, 2007

No Start Condition

Now that we are getting into winter some of us find that are having trouble starting. An Engine needs four basic things to allow it to run. It requires Spark, Fuel, Compression and at the right Time. Older vehicles ( pre - 1986) had carburetors that would cause a vehicle to flood themselves in the winter. Now that technology has stepped into play there are mostly fuel injected vehicles on the road, give or take a few hybrids. The Majority of No starts are caused from battery failure . Even if the battery is heavily corroded or just a loose connection. The vehicles computer controls the fuel system and on the latest of vehicles controls the starter. Test your battery at every service. Keep your battery terminals clean. Make sure you have over a 1/4 tank of fuel all winter long.

Monday, January 01, 2007

Save Money with Maintenance

HAPPY NEW YEAR !!!!

Make it a new years resolution to keep up on your vehicle maintenance that will save you both time and money. Think of the down time when your sitting along side the road with a flat tire or stuck at the air port because your car won't start. I don't need to tell you how much calling the tow truck costs.

The best and most efficient method of knowing about your car and keeping track of it is through the owner's manual which provides complete information on how to go about it. You can inspect your car every time you enter it, or on a daily or weekly basis or at intervals specified in the manual.

Must do's : Change the engine oil every 3,000 miles. oh but the book says every 5,000.....ask your self this " how does a vehicle manufacturer make money??" By selling you a new car !!! They only need the vehicle to last as long as the warranty. You can have it last longer buy properly maintaining your vehicle and have less problems. Yes, there are vehicles on the road with over 500,000 miles on there engines!!!!!

Keep a close eye on your tires. Check the pressure at each oil change and look at the tread depth across the entire surface. Anything below 3/32" and you are looking for trouble .

Check your battery for corroded terminals and have it load tested at each oil change.

If you follow these basic maintenance tips you are looking to save time and money in this New Year and the next !!!!

Tuesday, December 12, 2006

MAINTENANCE

Benefits of Proper Maintenance The automobile is a truly amazing machine. It is expected to function under a wide range of weather conditions and other adverse conditions, yet it often is subjected to careless hard driving and indifferent maintenance. Recommended service intervals are often ignored by the same vehicle owners that wouldn't let a week go by without vacuuming all the rugs in the house. Today the automobile is an integral part of our life. We have come to rely on the proper functioning of the family vehicle and seldom, if ever, make a time allowance in case the vehicle should fail to start. We expect it to start and move every time, and fortunately, most of the time it does. However, the rare instance that it doesn't, causes the owner to forget the thousands of times it started without a problem. The irony is that, chances are, the vehicle failed to start because of neglect. A periodic maintenance program such as the one in this book can keep the vehicle owner more aware of the condition of his or her vehicle and will save money in three important areas-fuel economy, emissions and performance.

Wednesday, November 15, 2006

Front End Alignment

WHEEL ALIGNMENT If the tires are worn unevenly, if the vehicle is not stable on the highway or if the handling seems uneven in spirited driving, the wheel alignment should be checked. If an alignment problem is suspected, first check for improper tire inflation and other possible causes. These can be worn suspension or steering components, accident damage or even unmatched tires. If any worn or damaged components are found, they must be replaced before the wheels can be properly aligned. Wheel alignment requires very expensive equipment and involves minute adjustments which must be accurate; it should only be performed by a trained technician. Take your vehicle to a properly equipped shop. Following is a description of the alignment angles which are adjustable on most vehicles and how they affect vehicle handling. Although these angles can apply to both the front and rear wheels, usually only the front suspension is adjustable. CASTER Looking at a vehicle from the side, caster angle describes the steering axis rather than a wheel angle. The steering knuckle is attached to a control arm or strut at the top and a control arm at the bottom. The wheel pivots around the line between these points to steer the vehicle. When the upper point is tilted back, this is described as positive caster. Having a positive caster tends to make the wheels self-centering, increasing directional stability. Excessive positive caster makes the wheels hard to steer, while an uneven caster will cause a pull to one side. Overloading the vehicle or sagging rear springs will affect caster, as will raising the rear of the vehicle. If the rear of the vehicle is lower than normal, the caster becomes more positive. CAMBER Looking from the front of the vehicle, camber is the inward or outward tilt of the top of wheels. When the tops of the wheels are tilted in, this is negative camber; if they are tilted out, it is positive. In a turn, a slight amount of negative camber helps maximize contact of the tire with the road. However, too much negative camber compromises straight-line stability, increases bump steer and torque steer. TOE Looking down at the wheels from above the vehicle, toe angle is the distance between the front of the wheels, relative to the distance between the back of the wheels. If the wheels are closer at the front, they are said to be toed-in or to have negative toe. A small amount of negative toe enhances directional stability and provides a smoother ride on the highway.