slip, brake , and vsm light all light up at the same

QUESTION: 2005 Infiniti qx56 v8, why do my slip, brake , and vsm light all light up at the same time when ever they want to? I turn it on and pull off and all three are lit up in my odometer I am not sure why. My brake is not in but the light is still on and so is the slip light and the vsm light. I don't know what it is. ANSWER: There are several reasons for the lights to come on. About the only thing you can do without a scan tool is check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder. If it is close to the minimum level it may drop below on turns and stopping which will cause all of the lights to turn on.If it is full,you will have to have the system scanned to determine what is failing and either make the repair yourself or have it repaired.

tried to connect with scan tool, no communication

Question: 1995 Mitsubishi eclipse gs-t tried to connect with scan tool, no communication. car has OBD2 port and am using a MAC taskmaster with the latest updates. Answer; In most cases when a scanner will not communicate, it is due to a blown fuse. It is usually the cigar lighter/radio fuse but not limited to. Check and replace any bad fuse and it should work.

2007 Acura MDX Recalls

Trim: 2007 MDX Base Sport Utility Retail Value: $23,550.00 Body Type: SUV Whats New: Revised Gen II MDX arrives shortly with a stout 300-horsepower, 3.7-liter V-6, Super Handling All-Wheel Drive, and a magnum load of premium standards. Luxuriously appointed, this midsize SUV boasts leather upholstery, 253 watts of premium sound, a power moonroof, and seats for seven, though room is tight. Key options include an Entertainment Package with rear-seat DVD, a Technology Package, and a Sport Package with active damping. Recall Date: FEB 05, 2008 Model Affected: 2007 ACURA MDX Summary: HONDA IS RECALLING 2,032 HITCH STYLE BIKE RACKS SOLD AS AFTERMARKET FOR USE ON MY 2003-2007 AND SOME MY 2008 HONDA PILOT, RIDGELINE, AND ACURA MDX VEHICLES. A PINCH BOLT EXISTS BETWEEN THE BIKE ARM BRACKET AND THE UPRIGHT ASSEMBLY OF THE "HITCH" STYLE BICYCLE RACK. Consequence: WHEN MOVING THE BIKE ARM BRACKET TO ITS DOWN POSITION, THIS PINCH BOLT HAS THE POTENTIAL OF CAUSING SEVERE LACERATION OR AMPUTATION TO THE USER'S FINGERTIPS OR HAND. Remedy: OWNERS SHOULD CONTACT THULE AT 800-THULE91 (800-848-5391) TO OBTAIN A FREE REPAIR KIT ALONG WITH REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS OR OWNERS MAY CONTACT HONDA AT 1-800-999-1009 OR ACURA AT 1-800-382-2238 FOR FURTHER INFORMATION. Potential Units Affected: 2032 Notes: HONDA (AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO.)

am told that basically all the 2.3 heads are interchangeable

QUESTION:

I am putting a 2.3 in an 1953 Willy's and am told that basically all the 2.3 heads are interchangeable but that the block changed in 1974 or 1975 ?

ANSWER:

The change was in 1974. 1974 -1984 2.3 are the same. then the heads were changed a bit to accompany the start of fuel injection. Even some of the 2.0 engine heads will interchange with the 2.3 but they have smaller valves so I wouldn't recommend it. The short blocks are basically the same from 1974-1994.

heater/air conditioning fan that runs on high all the time

Air Conditioning Dash Console

QUESTION:

I have a 2007 Mercury grand marque that has the heater/air conditioning fan that runs on high all the time. the other functions on the system all seem to work fine. I HAVE ISOLATED THE CIRCUTS BY REMOVINE THE BLOWER FUSE AND THE RELAY AND THE FAN STOPS. IT HAS THE ELECTRONIC TEMP CONTROL MODULE ON IT, THE BLOWER DIAL SEEM TO MOVE OK. I'M THINKING IT MUST BE THERE

ANSWER:

In most cases the relay is stuck internally and replacing it should fix your issue. You can swap it with a "like" relay for testing. If this does not cure what ales your vehicle, then the only thing left is the module itself.

steering problems - when I steer the brake pedal is depressed

QUESTION: My 2001 f250 7.3 liter has power steering problems. I have replaced the pump and the hydro assist but I still have trouble steering and when I steer the brake pedal is depressed and brakes are applied sometimes brakes are completely locked up. Could this be from bad fluid.and my new hydro assist is still good.I thought i had all the fluid out but it still is not clear fluid. ANSWER: This is caused by a failed check valve inside the Hydro-boost Assembly at the master cylinder. if you have replaced this part already then you have received a faulty re-manufactured one. Take it back and get a different one. I have seen this issue before. No it is not from bad fluid. The ONLY thing that will cause this is as I described. "This is caused by a failed check valve inside the Hydro-boost Assembly at the master cylinder."

Free automotive wiring diagrams?

Free Automotive Wiring Diagram Downloads

QUESTION:

looking for a download of wiring diagram for a 94 Mitsubishi mirage.gotta fix my daughters car ! This is a 1.5L m/t a/c bare bones car no frills at all. Autozone nor the library have any info on it where I live. so if you have any better resources I'd appreciate the help.

ANSWER:

Freeautomechanic.com

They will provide you with a basic free automotive wiring diagrams in an email that can be downloaded, viewed, saved or printed for future use . Basic Automotive wiring diagrams are available free for domestic and Asian vehicles. Some European wiring diagrams are available also. Please be specific on what area of the vehicle you need a wiring schematic for. The images are in ".pdf " format and require Adobe Acrobat Reader to be viewed at there highest quality. This will insure the ability to read the automotive wiring diagram with ease. Adobe Acrobat Reader is available as a free download at Adobe.com

It over heated for like 5 minutes blowing white smoke out the back and will not turn over anymore

QUESTION: I have a 1998 Oldsmobile Regency with a 3.8L V6 SFI engine. It over heated for like 5 minutes one day then started blowing white smoke out the back and will not turn over anymore. It has been tested for a blown head gasket and that isn't what it is. A mechanic has it now and has replaced the Plenum gasket, injector O'rings, Lower intake manifold, and spark plugs, the plugs being the last thing tried. It started twice for him but when he turns it off it wont turn over again. We also tried a new battery. Someone told me something about a restart button. Sounds crazy to me but I'm no mechanic. Already Tried: Injector O'rings, Plenum gasket, Lower intake manifold, Battery, Spark plugs. This car was babied by my grandmother never missed an oil change or anything. Plugs being the last thing tried... Or the newest part on the car rather. ANSWER: The first test that needs to be performed is a compression test. This is how you determine if the head gasket is blown. The initial description of what happened is classic to a blown head gasket. Take the guess work out of it and let the compression test prove it. All cylinder pressure should be within 20 psi of each other, if not... you have a blown head gasket or cracked head(cracked head is not very common). If the starter just doesn't turn over then it can be tested by checking for power at the starter with the key in start position. If it has power and does nothing (no click, no nothing) then the starter needs to be replaced. If it gives a hard click. then the engine may be vapor locked from coolant entering the cylinders.... so back to the first thing first. Have a compression test performed(which should have been the first thing done). If the mechanic says he can not perform this, then you need to take it to a different shop.

1985 Camaro, the engine will start but not stay running.

QUESTION: I have a 1985 Camaro, 2.8 litre multi-port fuel injection. The motor has about 55,000 miles on it. I was driving down the road when it lost power. Now the engine will start but not stay running. I can hear the fuel pump running. ANSWER: First thing you will want to do is check for any computer codes. This can be done by you . Extract GM Codes . If there are any codes, repair as needed or let me know what the codes are if you are not sure what to do. If there are no codes then, you need to have the fuel pressure tested. It needs to have at least 40 psi with just the key on and the engine not running(see testing procedure below). If not, replace the fuel pump. Another way to test this is to have someone spray starting fluid in the air filter while you start it and keep spraying to see if it will stay running. If it stays running on the starting fluid, then you need a fuel pump. TESTING 1) Relieve the fuel system pressure and check that there is an adequate quantity of fuel in the tank. 2) Connect a fuel pressure gauge to the pressure connector fitting located on the end of the fuel rail. Fig. 1:Fuel pressure can be checked using an inexpensive pressure/vacuum gauge 3) Make sure the ignition switch has been in the OFF position for at least 10 seconds and that all accessories are OFF. 4) Turn the ignition switch ON and the pump will run for about 2 seconds. Note the system pressure with the pump running, it should be between 40-47 psi. NOTE: The ignition switch may have to be cycled to the ON position more than once to obtain maximum pressure. It is also normal for the pressure to drop slightly when the pump first stops, but it should then hold steady. 5) If the pressure is not as specified, verify that fuel pump operation is heard in the tank. 6) If fuel pump operation is not heard, inspect the fuel pump relay and wiring. 7) If fuel pump operation is heard, inspect the filter and lines for restriction. 8) Start the engine and make sure the pressure decreases about 3-10 psi at idle. 9) If fuel pressure does not decrease, inspect the fuel pressure regulator and hose. 10) Disconnect the fuel pressure gauge.

How hard is it to replace a raidiator on a 1999 Acura Integra

Question: My question is how hard is it to replace a radiator on a 99 Integra if I decided to do it myself? Answer: It is about a 2 hour job, I would say if you have not done this kind of work before I would leave it to a mechanic because this is kind of a tight fit and can be a bit difficult. 1) Disconnect the negative battery cable. CAUTION Do not open the radiator drain-cock or remove the radiator cap when the cooling system is hot and under pressure. This can cause serious burns from hot, pressurized coolant. Allow a sufficient amount of time for the cooling system to cool down before opening up the system. 2) Loosen the radiator drain plug and, using a large capacity container, drain the cooling system. 3) Remove the radiator cap. 4) Disconnect the upper radiator hose.

NOTE: It is recommended that each clamp be match-marked to the hose. Observe the marks and reinstall the clamps in exactly the same position when reinstalling the radiator. 5) Remove the radiator hoses. 6) Label and disengage the wiring from the thermosensors and the electric fan assemblies. 7) For vehicles with automatic trans-axles, disconnect the oil cooler lines at the radiator. Plug the trans-axle ports and the hose ends to contain the fluid and prevent contamination. 8) Remove the radiator. Be careful not to damage the radiators cooling fins while removing the unit. While the radiator is not heavy, it may be awkward. Use both hands to steady it during removal and installation 9) Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Refill the cooling system with the proper type and amount of coolant.

NOTE: You may need to bleed the air out of the system to avoid the possibility of a trapped air pocket that may cause engine overheating.