dual heating and cooling sysem the passenger side turns cold and gives off nothing but COLD air

I have a '99 Grand Cherokee Limited with dual heating and cooling system. The heater works fine for a very short time (15 or 20 minutes), after which time the passenger side turns cold and gives off nothing but COLD air. How do I fix this problem?

Stereo Swap - need advice

I am trying to swap the stock AM/FM cassette deck in my wife's 2000 ford windstar van. How do you take the plastic shroud that surrounds the radio and heater out without breaking it? to expose the screws to remove the radio?

Response:

The shroud just snaps in and out. Use a plastic pry tool and pop it loose to expose the stereo mounting screws. Here is the wiring in case you need it for the swap.
2000 Ford Windstar Stereo Wiring


Constant 12V+ Green/Purple

Switched 12V+ Yellow/Black

Ground Black/Light Green

Illumination Green

Dimmer n/a

Front Speakers 6" x 8" Doors

Left Front (+) Orange/Light Green

Left Front (-) Light Blue/White

Right Front (+) White/Light Green

Right Front (-) Dark Green/Orange

Rear Speakers 6" x 8" Side Panels

Left Rear (+) Light Brown/White

Left Rear (-) Light Brown/Yellow

Right Rear (+) Light Brown/Green

Right Rear (-) Brown/Pink

96 Monte Carlo with a 3.4 liter motor he keeps burning up his alternator

my friend has a 96 Monte Carlo with a 3.4 liter motor he keeps burning up his alternator,he has replaced it 3 times.the 2nd one was he did not hook up the cowl for it to get air to cool it but it has happened again any ideas or maybe a cure for this would be helpful.


Response:

1) Disconnect that amp and subs.



2) Sounds like something is drawing a lot of amps. Has he been blowing fuses and replaced them with a higher amp fuse? Do any wires feel hot or warm. The fan belt could be over tighten,(this is bad for the bearings). Get it to a garage and have them check it.


3) One of the sensors is bad. Check your voltage at each sensor both cold and hot and compare to specs. Usually high voltage (battery voltage) is a cold cycle circuit. Low voltage (half battery voltage) is the run or warm circuit. This triggers the ECM to set the cycle for ignition and fuel pump. A common problem with the distributor model 4 cyl was the pickup coil and reluctor in what was known as the "Hall Effect" Ignition.
 
4) hall effect is possible. an automatic shut down relay is possible. another strange thing is the map sensor. these are all easy checks to find out no meters or other things. start with the shut down relay which is under the hood in the relay center and switch it with another relay of the same number like the ac or what ever and see if it runs when warm. for the test on the map unplug the vacuum and see if it runs (it will act flooded but it will run) if it is the map and if all else fails it can be the pick-up coil know as the hall effect. in the distributor flat plate their when cap is removed lol and have a great day.

1989 f 250 fuel tanks

I have a 89 f 250 5.8. I'm not to knowledgeable about repair but can be a quick learner. I just purchased this vehicle as a need to use weekend vehicle. I put fuel in the rear tank about 14 gal and a little more in the front tank which made neither one completely full,drove home then parked. The next morning I noticed the rear tank Gage showed almost empty and the front tank was as full as one can get on the Gage. Odd to me. Did the tank pump fuel into the other? I did not see any fuel leakage any where.Why did other tank now show more fuel?

Other question- The front tank gives me a lot of trouble when trying to pump fuel into it. The gas pump nozzle just keeps shutting off. Sure was a pain to get gas into the tank.

Response:
To answer your 1st question, there is a metering valve that changes which tank is drawing fuel and where the fuel is being returned. It is possible for that valve not to function properly thus allowing the fuel to be returned to the other tank. However, if it is fuel injected it will cause preformance problems and possible check engine light.


To answer your 2nd question, there is a restriction in your fill tube or the vent/return on the fill tube is restricted.

Toyota Recall - Frequently Asked Questions For Sticking Accelerator Pedal

Which models are affected by the recall/stop sale?


Toyota’s accelerator pedal recall and suspension of sales is confined to the following Toyota Division vehicles:

•Certain 2009-2010 RAV4,

•Certain 2009-2010 Corolla,

•2009-2010 Matrix,

•2005-2010 Avalon,

•Certain 2007-2010 Camry,

•Certain 2010 Highlander,

•2007-2010 Tundra,

•2008-2010 Sequoia

No Lexus Division or Scion vehicles are affected by these actions. Also not affected are Toyota Prius, Tacoma, Sienna, Venza, Solara, Yaris, 4Runner, FJ Cruiser, Land Cruiser, Highlander hybrids and Camry hybrids, which will remain for sale.

Further, Camry, RAV4, Corolla and Highlander vehicles with VINs that begin with "J" are not affected by the sticky accelerator pedal recall.



What is the condition that has prompted Toyota to take this action?

In rare instances, there is a possibility that certain accelerator pedal mechanisms may, mechanically stick in a partially depressed position or return slowly to the idle position.



What is the likelihood that my vehicle will experience this condition?

The condition is rare and does not occur suddenly. It can occur when the pedal mechanism becomes worn and, in certain conditions, the accelerator pedal may become harder to depress, slower to return or, in the worst case, stuck in a partially depressed position.



Are you continuing to investigate other models?

Toyota is confident that all models that contain the potentially sticking pedals have been identified.



Why has Toyota stopped selling the affected vehicles?

Until Toyota has finalized an appropriate remedy to address the potential for sticking accelerator pedals, a sales suspension is necessary.



How long will this stop sale be in effect?

New cars covered by this recall will not be delivered until a remedy is finalized and then implemented.

When do you expect to have a remedy?

Toyota is making every effort to remedy this situation for customers as quickly as possible.

What options are you exploring for a remedy?

Toyota is reviewing a number of different options, and the company hopes to announce a remedy soon.


What should I do if I believe my vehicle is affected by this condition, i.e. I have noticed that my accelerator pedal is hard to depress, slow to return or is unsmooth during operation. What should I do?

The vehicle should be driven to the nearest safe location, the engine shut off and a Toyota dealer contacted for assistance.


What if you experience a sticking accelerator pedal while driving?

Each circumstance may vary, and drivers must use their best judgment, but Toyota recommends taking one of the following actions:


• If you need to stop immediately, the vehicle can be controlled by stepping on the brake pedal with both feet using firm and steady pressure. Do not pump the brake pedal as it will deplete the vacuum utilized for the power brake assist.

• Shift the transmission gear selector to the Neutral (N) position and use the brakes to make a controlled stop at the side of the road and turn off the engine.

• If unable to put the vehicle in Neutral, turn the engine OFF. This will not cause loss of steering or braking control, but the power assist to these systems will be lost.

• If the vehicle is equipped with an Engine Start/Stop button, firmly and steadily push the button for at least three seconds to turn off the engine. Do NOT tap the Engine Start/Stop button.

• If the vehicle is equipped with a conventional key-ignition, turn the ignition key to the ACC position to turn off the engine. Do NOT remove the key from the ignition as this will lock the steering wheel.



If I am an owner of one of the affected vehicles, what action do I need to take?

Toyota is working quickly to prepare a correction remedy and will issue owner notifications in the future. No action is required at this time unless you feel you are experiencing this condition. If you are experiencing this condition, immediately contact your nearest Toyota Dealer for assistance.


Toyota stated that this did not affect new/low mileage vehicles, has the situation changed?

The law requires that the entire universe of new vehicles identified in the recall notice must be included in the stop sale.

Why are you stopping production at your factories?

Production is being stopped temporarily at five North American production facilities to assess and coordinate activities related to the recall announced on January 21.

What should I do if I still have questions or concerns?

If you still have questions or concerns that have not been addressed here, please contact the Toyota Customer Experience Center at 1-800-331-4331.

The Toyota Customer Experience Center hours are:

Mon - Fri, 5:00 am - 6:00 pm PST

Sat, 7:00 am - 4:00 pm PST
Reference link: http://pressroom.toyota.com/pr/tms/toyota/FAQ-for-Sticking-Accelerator-Pedal-152196.aspx

1989 Chevy Truck tail lights go out when I hit the Brakes

I have a 1989 Chevy pick up scottsdale 1500 the left tail light goes out when I activate the brakes any advice would be helpful. thanks

Response:

It's either a bad ground or a bad light socket itself and very common to fail. Your wire harness runs down the drivers side just inside the frame rail to just below the left tail light where it forks and part goes up the other over to the right tail light with quick connectors for the license plate light. UNLESS, someone has installed an aftermarket trailer wiring package. Also check your trailer connection. even though your not using the connection you are still receiving power to the plug. use a test light to make sure it's working properly.

good luck

1999 Ford E-150 has a misfire problem that I can't seem to fix

TPS Sensor

My 1999, E-150 has a misfire problem that I can't seem to fix. I had to replace the Camshaft Sensor due to the 3-wire connector being fused together during a simple thermostat replacement. I had trouble connecting the Sensor back onto the 3-wire coupling due to an electrical degreaser I used, which melted the 3-wire insulation and caused the wires to touch each other.

After I put it all back together, and started the engine, I got nothing to run. So..... after breaking it all down again to discover the Camshaft Sensor fried, along with the 30amp fuse in the fuse box under the hood, I had to go find another connector (used) and a NEW sensor, and put it all back together. The engine turned on!

But..... the motor ran a bit rough at idle. Then I drove the van around and the misfire was in all driving gears and RPM's. It was rough enough for me to park the van and try to diagnose the problem. I replaced the spark plugs, tested the Coil Pack with an Ohm meter and still nothing helped.

What do I do now?

Response:
Try your T.PS. sensor sounds like that may be the real problem. I had same problem and that fixed mine.

Oil Pressure Question

OK guys, my 1989 S-10 Blazer has an oil leak, I know this for sure. It has the oil filter on the fender well. Normally when the oil gets low the gauge drops below 40 and the light comes on. Last night when I was stopping at street lights I was starting to hear a slight knocking noise. The oil pressure gauge was still reading between 60-80 however when I checked the dipstick, there was no oil. Well, I threw in 4 quarts of oil, waited 10 minutes, checked and there was oil on the dipstick. Oil gauge was still reading 40-60 pressure.


What would make the gauge show pressure when there is no oil?

Oh, about 2 months ago, the converter plugged up and the truck backfired and blew the gasket out of the valve cover, but not to where the cover warped or leaks oil. We cut off the converter,it smoked for a few days, ran really rough and then cleared up and I haven't had problems with it until last night. After the oil was put in, it started smoking and running rough again. We didn't replace the muffler so i assume that is most likely plugged again, causing the smoke and rough running.
 
Response:
 
Oil filter remotely mounted? Haven't saw one of those since my 53 Chevy. I would look at what is moving the oil from the engine to the filter and back. Possible leak there. 60-80 psi is way too high. But gauges as they get older are not very accurate, and they can stick. Is the dip stick original? Was it changed for a shorter one? Without looking at the ride, it's only a guess at this point. If you plan to keep it, tow it in to a good mechanic and have him take a leak at it.
 
Here we are talking about at least 2 problems. They may be related. The Oil problem, air in your oil line will still give you a pressure reading although it is False. The lack of oil giving you the bearing knock is proof enough. Now, if you run your engine low on oil it runs at a Hotter Temp and causes wear and heat damages. Now remember this, the cat converter was attached and was removed because it was believed to be plugged. If it was then there is a good chance of Carbon Deposit Build Up in the EGR System. What is the Carbon? It's your engine oil cooked from heat. What is your EGR System? Exhaust Gas Recirculatory System. What removes Carbon? Heat. What causes the re occurance? Lack of Oil.

Window stuck down on my 1997 Lincoln Town Car

a cable to the window regulator in the driver's side door broke and the window is all the way down. Have taken off the door panel to try to push the window up, however it is stuck. How can I release the window to hold it up while the new regulator arrives?

Response:
I'm ASSUMING that you are referring to the nylon track itself being broken. There are 2 10mm nuts on the bottom of the glass that hold the window to the track. Unbolt and slide the window up and use a piece of rope on the inside of the window to control it up and down until you get the track. You can tie off 1 end to the door closer strap to keep the window up and still use the door.

1999 Chevy Tahoe and I need to replace the Blower Motor Resistor

Blower Motor Resistor = 1

I have a 1999 Chevy Tahoe and I need to replace the Blower Motor Resistor. I understand that it is on top of the blower and access is by removing the radio and heater control panel. Can anyone advise the easiest and best way to safely remove the dash panels to gain access? I don’t want to break anything during the removal process. Thanks!

Response:
The Resistor is under the hood in the engine compartment. It's held onto the fibreglass case with 2 1/4 screws and has 4 wires, 1 going to the blower itself and 3 going into the main harness and back to the switch. So follow that Orange or Tan 10 gauge wire on the blower back to that resistor.