Secondary Air Injection Code P1411

OPERATION The Secondary Air Injection (AIR) system is an electronically controlled system. The system diverts secondary air upstream to the exhaust manifold check valve or downstream to the rear section check valve and catalyst. The system will also dump secondary air into the atmosphere during some operating modes. TESTING Normally Closed Air Bypass Valve Functional Test Disconnect the air supply hose at the valve. Run the engine to normal operating temperature. Disconnect the vacuum line and make sure vacuum is present. If no vacuum is present, remove or bypass any restrictors or delay valves in the vacuum line. Run the engine at 1500 rpm with the vacuum line connected. Air pump supply air should be heard and felt at the valve outlet. With the engine still at 1500 rpm, disconnect the vacuum line. Air at the outlet should shut off or dramatically decrease. Air pump supply air should now be felt or heard at the silencer ports. If the valve doesn't pass each of these tests, replace it. Normally Open Air Bypass Valve Functional Test Disconnect the air supply hose at the valve. Run the engine to normal operating temperature. Disconnect the vacuum lines from the valve. Run the engine at 1500 rpm with the vacuum lines disconnected. Air pump supply air should be heard and felt at the valve outlet. Shut off the engine. Using a spare length of vacuum hose, connect the vacuum nipple of the valve to direct manifold vacuum. Run the engine at 1500 rpm. Air at the outlet should shut off or dramatically decrease. Air pump supply air should now be felt or heard at the silencer ports. With the engine still in this mode, cap the vacuum vent. Accelerate the engine to 2,000 rpm and suddenly release the throttle. A momentary interruption of air pump supply air should be felt at the valve outlet. If the valve doesn't pass each of these tests, replace it. Reconnect all lines. Air Control Valve Functional Test Run the engine to normal operating temperature, then increase the speed to 1500 rpm. Disconnect the air supply hose at the valve inlet and verify that there is airflow present. Reconnect the air supply hose. Disconnect both air supply hoses. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the valve. With the engine running at 1500 rpm, airflow should be felt and heard at the outlet on the side of the valve, with no airflow heard or felt at the outlet opposite the vacuum nipple. Shut off the engine. Using a spare piece of vacuum hose, connect direct manifold vacuum to the valve's vacuum fitting. Airflow should be heard and felt at the outlet opposite the vacuum nipple, and no airflow should be present at the other outlet. If the valve is not functioning properly, replace it. Air Supply Pump Functional Check Check and, if necessary, adjust the belt tension. Press at the mid-point of the belt's longest straight run. You should be able to depress the belt about 1⁄2 in. (13mm) at most. Run the engine to normal operating temperature and let it idle. Disconnect the air supply hose from the bypass control valve. If the pump is operating properly, airflow should be felt at the pump outlet. The flow should increase as you increase the engine speed. The pump is not serviceable and should be replaced if it is not functioning properly.

BELTS AND HOSES

How long do the belts in my car typically last?

Your belts drive critical systems of your car, including your alternator which recharges your battery, your water pump which keeps your engine cool, your air conditioner which keeps you cool, and your power steering pump. If a belt breaks, the effects can range from the simple inconvenience of not having your air conditioning to leaving you stranded in traffic to overheating and ruining your engine.V-belts will typically last three years or 30,000 miles. Serpentine belts will go farther, lasting five years or 50,000 miles. Belts will sometimes show visible signs of age before they break, including cracking, fraying, and glazing. Modern belts often show no visible signs of deterioration before they break, however.

How often should the hoses be replaced?

Like belts, hoses harden, split, or soften with age. Sometimes the aging is visible. Often, however, there are no outward signs of problems before a hose bursts or starts leaking. According to one study, internal corrosion caused by electrochemical reactions in the cooling system is the leading cause of hose failure. Hose manufacturers recommend replacing hoses every four years.

How often should I replace the timing belt in my car?

Many of the cars on the road today have timing belts. They keep the valves and pistons in your car in synch. These belts take the place of a timing chain. The advantage is that they are lighter and more fuel efficient. The drawback is that they wear out quicker. Like a fan belt, a timing belt needs to be replaced before it breaks. The timing belt needs to be replaced every 50,000-60,000 miles on most cars, but the exact interval depends on the make and model of your car.If you wait too long and your belt breaks while you are driving down the road, your engine loses its coordination. This can have horrible results. Your pistons may hit your valves, causing major damage to the head of your engine. It is common for repair bills to run $1000 to $2000 for this problem. Replacing your timing belt is one maintenance item you never want to skip.

Turns Over But Won't Start

Your running late for work, run out to jump in the car only to hear the engine cranking constantly and Not Starting.....

Once you have calmed down and decided you want to try and narrow down what might be causing the issue , resort to the basics. There are Four things that are required to make an engine run.

1. Spark - Ignition Spark is needed to ignite the fuel
2. Fuel - self explainitory
3. Compression - If there is no compression , the fuel will not burn properly
4. Timing - you need the first three items all at the right time

If you have Spark, try spraying starting fluid in the engine.. if it runs, consentrate on diagnosing the fuel system.

If you fuel but No Spark, consentrate on diagnosing the ignition system

If you have Spark and Fuel , perform a compression test and check you timing.. you may have a broken timing belt or blown head gasket

Oil Changes

Performing your own automotive oil change will save you money!

The most important service to maintain your vehicle is an automotive oil change. Engine oil is the life blood of your vehicle, and if changed on a regular 3000 mile interval, it will keep your automotive engine running for years. While oil keeps things lubricated, the oil filter keeps out the impurities, so the oil filter needs to be changed at every interval. Always consult your repair manual for proper oil quantity and the proper oil filter when performing an automotive oil change. Always remember the most important rule when performing any repair service is SAFETY FIRST!

Most automotive manufacturers will suggest that you do an automotive oil change between 5000 and 7500 miles, but I would only recommend that interval for synthetic oil. The maintenance schedules that they publish have two options, standard and extreme. Most consumers think that the standard schedule is fine no matter where you live, but 75% of the world lives in the extreme, hot,cold,city driving,etc! So lets stick to an automotive oil change every 3000 miles

Let's look at a comparison of paying a shop as opposed to performing your own automotive oil change....

Repair shop: Standard oil change $35.00 to $40.00 Synthetic oil change $65.00 to $85.00

Do it yourself: Standard oil Change $20.00 or less. Synthetic oil change $35.00 or less.

Engine Trouble Code P1345

DTC P1345 Crankshaft Position (CKP)-Camshaft Position (CMP) Correlation Circuit Description This diagnostic trouble code (DTC) monitors the crankshaft position (CKP) and the camshaft position (CMP) signals to determine if they are synchronized. If both signals are not observed by the control module within a narrow time window, the vehicle control module (VCM) will determine that an error has occurred. Conditions for Running the DTC The engine is running Conditions for Setting the DTC When the engine is running, the cam sensor reference pulse is not detected at the correct position relative to the crankshaft position sensor pulse. Action Taken When the DTC Sets The control module illuminates the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) the first time the diagnostic runs and fails. The control module will set the DTC and records the operating conditions at the time the diagnostic fails. The control module stores the failure information in the scan tools Freeze Frame/Failure Records. Conditions for Clearing the MIL or DTC The control module turns OFF the MIL after 3 consecutive drive trips when the test has run and passed. A history DTC will clear if no fault conditions have been detected for 40 warm-up cycles. A warm-up cycle occurs when the coolant temperature has risen 22°C (40°F) from the startup coolant temperature and the engine coolant reaches a temperature that is more than 70°C (158°F) during the same ignition cycle. Use a scan tool in order to clear the DTCs. Diagnostic Aids Check the following items: A loose CMP sensor causing a variance in the sensor signal Excessive free play in the timing chain and gear assembly Incorrectly installed distributor - 1 tooth off in either advance or retard positions A loose distributor rotor on the distributor shaft A loose or missing distributor hold down bolt An intermittent may be caused by any of the following conditions: A poor connection Rubbed through wire insulation A broken wire inside the insulation

Car Heater Blower Motor Doesn't Work

Question : I have a 2000 Honda Civic and My blower motor only works on high speed, what could be the cause of this???

Answer : This is an indication that the Blower motor Resistor has failed and needs to be replaced. If the blower motor did not function at all you would need to replace the motor . The resistor is located within 6" of the motor mounted inside the air box and can be removed externally. It is cooled by the air flow created by the blower motor.

Blower Motor and Resistor

VW P3801

VolksWagon Check Engine Light Code "19537 4C51 P3081 Engine temperature too low" That DTC is indicative of a missing thermostat, a stuck open thermostat, or a cooling system with 100% antifreeze. It is NOT associated with a defective ECT G62. When the coolant temperature is too low, that does not necessarily mean a sensor failure. Sounds like the sensor is telling you the truth. Watch the temperature on the scan tool as the engine warms up. Look for things that keep it from warming up. Things like radiator fans on all the time, straight anti-freeze, stuck open thermostat and so on. That is what it means. It means a system problem, not necessarily a component failure. More....

Brake Pad Break In Procedure

BRAKE PAD BEDDING IN PROCEDURE To ensure maximum performance and customer satisfaction, new brake pads must be bedded in upon installation. Correct bedding guarantees that new brake pads and new rotors work flawlessly together. In order to function optimally, organic brake pads must develop friction coal on its surface. This friction coal develops at a temperature of approximately 280°C (537°F). It is very important that this temperature is reached continuously and slowly. This gradual process generates temperatures that not only penetrate the surface of the brake discs and pads, but also distribute evenly through the whole disc and pad material. This is essential when using new brake discs, since the disc often shows signs of stress (due to the casting process and fast cooling) in the materials. A steady and careful warming and cooling process guarantees a good release of both materials. The bedding in/break in procedure should be done as follows: Drive at approx. 35 mph (60 kmh) for about 500 yards (solid front discs) to 800 yards (vented front discs) while slightly dragging the brakes (i.e. light brake pedal pressure). This process allows the brake temperature to slowly and evenly build up to 300°C (572°F). Now, if possible, drive about 2200 yards maintaining the same speed without braking. This will allow the pads and discs to cool down evenly. After this cool-down, perform a normal brake application from 35 mph to 0. No panic stops! Now, the friction surface has evenly developed friction coal, the pads have bonded with the disc surface, and tensions in the disc materials will have disappeared. Only trained master mechanics should perform this procedure before delivering the vehicle to its owner. Do not expect your customer to properly finish your brake job! This bedding process is only suitable for the front axle - not the rear. This is due to the brake force distribution of front and rear axles. In order to reach 300°C (527°F) on the rear pads you would have to drive several miles with dragging brakes. However, in that time the front brakes will be glowing red, overheating and thus destroying the front brakes. Final note – don’t forget to clean hubs and check the wheel bearings. Also, the brake fluid should be replaced at least every 2 years.

Bleeding Brake Systems

NON-ABS SYSTEMS When any part of the hydraulic system has been disconnected for repair or replacement, air may get into the lines and cause spongy pedal action (because air can be compressed and brake fluid cannot). To correct this condition, it is necessary to bleed the hydraulic system after it has been properly connected to be sure that all air is expelled from the brake cylinders and lines. When bleeding the brake system, bleed one brake cylinder at a time, beginning at the cylinder with the longest hydraulic line (farthest from the master cylinder) first. Keep the master cylinder reservoir filled with brake fluid during bleeding operation. Never use brake fluid that has been drained from the hydraulic system, no matter how clean it is. It will be necessary to centralize the pressure differential valve after a brake system failure has been corrected and the hydraulic system has been bled. The primary and secondary hydraulic brake systems are individual systems and are bled separately. During the entire bleeding operation, do not allow the reservoir to run dry. Keep the master cylinder reservoirs filled with brake fluid. Wheel Cylinders and Calipers Fig. 1: To bleed the front brakes, place one end of a clear hose on the bleeder screw and the other in a clear container of brake fluid Clean all dirt from around the master cylinder fill cap, remove the cap and fill the master cylinder with brake fluid until the level is within 1⁄4 in. (6mm) of the top of the edge of the reservoir. Clean off the bleeder screws at the wheel cylinders and calipers. Attach the length of rubber hose over the nozzle of the bleeder screw at the wheel to be done first. Place the other end of the hose in a glass jar, submerged in brake fluid. Open the bleed screw valve 1⁄2 – 3⁄4 turn. Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal. Close the bleeder screw valve and tell your assistant to allow the brake pedal to return slowly. Continue this pumping action to force any air out of the system. When bubbles cease to appear at the end of the bleeder hose, close the bleed valve and remove the hose. Check the master cylinder fluid level and add fluid accordingly. Do this after bleeding each wheel. Repeat the bleeding operation at the remaining 3 wheels, ending with the one closest to the master cylinder. Fill the master cylinder reservoir. Place the clear plastic hose over the wheel cylinder bleeder screw and the other in the clear container of brake fluid when bleeding the rear brakes Master Cylinder Fill the master cylinder reservoirs. Place absorbent rags under the fluid lines at the master cylinder. Have an assistant depress and hold the brake pedal. With the pedal held down, slowly crack open the hydraulic line fitting, allowing the air to escape. Close the fitting and have the pedal released. Repeat Steps 3 and 4 for each fitting until all the air is released.

Radial Tires, What does it mean ?

RADIAL The simple definition of a Radial type tire: The radial is a type of tire that is constructed with rubber coated, reinforcing steel cable belts that are assembled parallel and run from side to side, bead to bead at an angle of 90 degrees to the circumferential centerline of the tire. (As opposed to the 30 degree alternating application lengthwise as in bias ply tires). This makes the tire more flexible which reduces rolling resistance to improve fuel economy. Then numerous rubber coated steel belts are then constructed into the "crown" of the tire under the tread to form a strong stable two-stage unit. Performance and purpose of Radial tires Radial tires are the preferred tire of choice in most applications for several key reasons. The combination of steel stabilizing belts in the single-layer radial casing allows the tread and sidewall to act independently. The sidewall flexes more easily under the weight of the vehicle and its cargo, while the tank-track type tread provides even contact with the ground. Greater vertical deflection is achieved with radial tires. This is desirable because extreme flexing greatly increases resistance to punctures. To increase a radial tire's strength, larger diameter steel cables are used. Larger steel cables can help reduce punctures, tears and flats. Larger steel cables also help distribute heat, resulting in a cooler running tire and improving fuel economy. Unlike bias ply tires larger steel cables have little negative affect on performance. The parallel stabilizing steel belts of the radial minimize tread distortion. As the sidewalls flexes under load, the belts hold the tread firmly and evenly on the ground or object and thus minimizing tread scrub and greatly increasing tread life. When cornering the independent action of the tread and sidewalls keeps the tread flat on the road. This allows the tire to hold to its path. When offroad, the radial tire's stabilizing steel belt design aids in greater traction by holding the tread evenly over obstacles allowing the tread of the tire to have a better chance of finding traction.