Check Engine Light

Check Engine light From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia A Check Engine or Service Engine Soon light is an indicator of the internal status of a car engine. It is found on the instrument console of most automobiles. When illuminated, it is typically either a red or amber color. The Check Engine light, also sometimes known as a MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp), can illuminate for any of a very large number of reasons. Typically, the reason is not serious enough to affect drivability of the vehicle. Common causes include: loose gas cap, vehicle due for scheduled maintenance, or problems with the emission control system (i.e., charcoal canister or oxygen sensor). This light became required on passenger cars due to emission control legislation in California, with the intention that the light would illuminate if there was a problem which would cause the vehicle to have excessive pollutant emissions. The owner would be aware that the emission control system needed to be serviced, and would be prevented from renewing their registration in the state of California. The Check Engine light can also illuminate for reasons which may affect drivability, so it is advisable that one have the vehicle examined by a mechanic at one's earliest convenience. A preliminary diagnostic check can be performed by retrieval of the "trouble code" which has caused the light to illuminate. The cost of hooking up a diagnostic computer to retrieve the trouble code varies greatly, costing as much as $99. Once a "trouble code" has been pulled, the technician will have a better idea of what the problem may be. These codes are seldom specific, but instead tend to relate to a system of complex parts, thus requiring further diagnosis. Said diagnosis will require paying the hourly labor fee of a skilled technician. Hard code vs Soft code If the cost of replacing a non-essential part seems exhorbitant, one may choose to "clear" the code by having the computer reset. If the problem reoccurs, the light will come back on. Sometimes the light goes off on its own -- this indicates a "soft code", which usually refers to a temporary non-serious problem. Even though the emission system typically does not affect anything more than gas mileage, problems will trip a "hard code", requiring a reset. One can attempt the reset themselves, either by removing (and reinserting) the proper fuse, or by temporarily disconnecting the battery. However, this will not work on all vehicles, and disconnecting the battery may reset other systems as well (such as the idle). Alternatively, one may cover the Check Engine light with a piece of black electrical tape or remove the bulb for the Check Engine light. "Trouble" indicator Be advised that on older vehicles, the unlabeled red light ("trouble" indicator) should NEVER be ignored, as said light typically only comes on just prior to a major breakdown of the engine (i.e., overheating due to low oil or coolant). Since this "trouble" indicator only indicates severe problems, it is not a true Check Engine light. A "trouble" indicator may be a single red light, or several red lights indicating oil pressure, temperature, battery, and brake. As these lights were meant to replace gauges which the average driver found confusing, they are commonly referred to as "idiot lights." If an "idiot light" comes on, it is often advisable to immediately stop your vehicle and have it towed to prevent further damage. As the Check Engine light typically works as an early warning of a non-essential problem, it would not be considered an idiot light. Odometer triggering Some vehicles made in the late 80s and early-to-mid 90s have a check-engine light that illuminates based on the odometer reading, regardless of what is going on in the engine. For example, in several Mazda models, the light will come on at 80,000 miles and remain lit without generating a computer trouble code. This was done in order to remind the driver to change the O2 sensor. In such cases, the only way to fix the problem is to make a physical adjustment inside the dashboord, such as removing a screw from one location and putting it in another location (replacing the O2 sensor alone will not cause the light to turn off).[1] The light will illuminate again at subsequent 80,000 mile intervals, at which point the fix must be repeated.

Engine Tune Ups

Tuneups : "'I want a tuneup,' that's the worst thing somebody can say," warns George Giek, AAA's director of automotive engineering. It's like giving the repair shop carte blanche to run up your bill. And you probably don't need a tuneup anyway. In the old days a tuneup included replacement of spark plugs, breaker points and condensers, along with the resetting of carburetor adjustments (such as the idle speed), and ignition-system adjustments (such as the timing and dwell angle). These days, cars don't have carburetors (fuel-injection systems see to that) and they don't have points and condensers (computerized electronic-ignition systems do that). That pretty much leaves replacement of spark plugs, which can last a good 30,000 miles now, and visual inspection of things like spark-plug wires, which can easily last 50,000 miles. None of this has stopped the proliferation of quickie tuneup shops. Nor has it stopped dealers and independent garages from selling tuneups to any customer who walks in the door. "All cars need a tuneup," insists Frank Rauth, whose family runs Frank's Stadium Service in Detroit. Really? Even modern cars? Well, Rauth concedes, a well-running car usually doesn't need to have any settings changed, but it should have its spark plugs replaced now and then. Six common spark plugs cost about $15. Frank's charge for a tuneup on a six-cylinder engine? Sixty-one dollars. The moral: Don't get a tuneup until your car runs ragged. By that we mean if your car lacks its normal acceleration, its fuel economy begins to suffer or it is hard to start. Then head to a trusty mechanic -- not a quickie shop -- and avoid using the term "tuneup." Describe the symptoms and let him or her figure out the proper repairs.

Hyundai Scoupe Clucth Cabe Adjustment

The Clutch cable information you requested. Pedal Height Adjustment : Measure the pedal height fromt the top of the pedal pad to the closest point on the floor. The distance should be 7 in.(178mm). Losen the clutch switch locknut and move the pedal stop bolt. Then tighten the lock nut. Clevis Pin Play Adjustment : Clevis pin play is measured at the pedal while observing the pin. Play should be 0.04-0.12in (1-3 mm). If not, loosen the lock nut and turn the pushrod, as required. Tighten the locknut. Free Play Adjustment for Cable : Slightly pull the cable away from the firewall. Turn the adjusting wheel on the cable until the play between the wheel and the cable retainer is 0.20-0.25 in. ( 5-6 mm). Release the cable and make sure the end of the tension spring engages the adjusting wheel, so the wheel won't turn. Check the clutch pedal free-play. Free-play should be 0.8-1.2 in.(20-30 mm). If it is outside specification, adjust it by means of the adjusting wheel on the cable. Free Play Adjustment for Hydraulic : Check this adjustment after checking pedal height and clevis play. Free-play should be 0.24-0.51 in.(6-13 mm). If not, there is air in the system which must be bled. If air persists, there ia a leak and system must be repaired.

Rough Idle

Question : OK here we go........2000 Pontiac sunfire gt 2.4 litre engine 180 000 Kmrough idle started suddenly one morning......things ive tried and tested.....changed sparkplugs twicereplaced throttlebody gasketreplaced intake manifold gaskettried new coilschecked engine compression all between 216-222 psichecked engine vacuum not steady but between 14-15" mercuryadded two cans combustion chamber cleanerno check engine soon light!!!my GM mechanic had it for three hours could not find anythingadded one can injector cleanerthing i havent checkedevapegrcatalityc converterfuel pressureengine idles rough only, when it gets above 1500 rpm it dissappears but it takes longer than usual to come back to idle speed , all this happens hot or cold....... Hope you can help or suggest Response to question: Your problem you say is below 1500 rpm and that the vehicle runs fine above 1500 rpm. I would say you need to replace the I A C valve (idle air control). The I A C only functions at or below 1500 rpm. This is a common issue with GM engines. If you have replaced the intake manifold gasket , this should be fairly simple for you. Also when you remove the old I A C clean any excessive carbon that may be present. information from www.freeautomechanic.com

Nitrous Oxide

While there has never been any question as to the wonderful power inducing performance gained by injecting nitrous oxide into your engine, it has also been surrounded by some total misconceptions. So we’re here to clear the air. The following are what we believe to be the top three myths about nitrous injection and its effects on your engine. Myth number 1: Nitrous will blow up my engine!Simply stated, nitrous, properly installed according to the manufacturer’s instructions, will not blow up your engine. Today, nitrous is still the easiest and safest way to greatly increase your engine’s horsepower. Where people run into problems is when they get greedy. With today’s modern nitrous systems, all that is required is approximately two minutes to change the nitrous and fuel jets, which will add an additional 50, 100, even 300 horsepower. Often, beginners try to push the window, figuring if everything appears to be running fine, a “little” more nitrous can’t hurt their engine. Caught up in the excitement, the novice nitrous user often forgets to make the proper (and safe) engine adjustments in accordance with the increased nitrous jet sizing. The most commonly overlooked adjustments include forgetting to retard the ignition timing, not changing to “colder” heat range spark plugs, and in some cases, not installing an increased flow capacity fuel pump to deliver sufficient fuel flow. The result is a nitrous system that is not correctly installed for safe operation, making engine damage inevitable. As long as the installer follows the manufacturer’s tuning instructions and advice with regard to engine adjustments and vehicle upgrades, they will have safe, reliable power gains that will not harm their engine in any way. Myth number 2: Blowers and turbos are safer than nitrous injection!A properly installed nitrous system offers virtually the same level of engine safety as supercharger and turbocharger enhancements. Forced induction engine kits are most commonly complete packages that include fuel system and computer tuning upgrades. This allows the manufacturer to build a safe computer “tune-up” into the system they provide. That concept is fine, but adding all those extras dramatically raises the cost of the upgrade by thousands of dollars. With a nitrous system, the manufacturer provides precisely what is required to safely use nitrous, as well as detailed recommendations when fuel and ignition upgrades are necessary. The beauty of this information is that the customer makes the decision as to how far they can go with their nitrous system based on their specific upgrades. A person spraying a 75 hp shot of nitrous doesn’t require a fuel pump upgrade, so why should they have to pay extra for one? But a person that wants to spray a 200 hp shot will definitely need to increase the fuel flow as well as the ignition system performance. When it comes right down to it, a nitrous system is just as safe as a blower or turbo kit as long as it’s installed with the fuel and ignition system upgrades needed for the power level you want to run. Myth number 3: Nitrous oxide is the same thing as nitro methane!Nitrous oxide and nitro methane are not the same thing - not even close! Many people, especially those casual spectators of Top Fuel/Funny Car drag racing competition, think that nitrous and nitro are the same fuel. Having watched their favorite racers explode engines while making a 300mph run down the quarter mile, they believe that nitrous will also cause their engines to blow up. Nothing could be further from the truth. Nitro methane used in Top Fuel competition is a very volatile liquid fuel and only racing engines designed specifically for this fuel can handle its huge power and destructive force. In these applications, nitro methane is the main fuel source, constituting as much as 90 percent of the total fuel burned. Nitrous oxide, on the other hand, is injected into the engine in comparatively small amounts and delivers smooth burning characteristics that enhance the fuel’s combustion process. Nitrous oxide can be safely used even with bone stock engines. Whether it’s a small 55 hp shot of nitrous added to a four cylinder engine or a 300 hp shot added to a properly built V8 racing engine, nitrous allows you to add just the right amount of power without fear of damaging your engine.

Car Insurance

Car Insurance ........ yeah ,they all say they're the cheapest out there......lol. Surely you are intellegent enough to know not all insurance companies are created equal. Each individual insurance policy should be read completely just as you would read a New car warrenty. The Policy is only as good as the coverage it "really" has. The Largest National Insurance Company is currently undergoing a class action law suit for charging individuals with multiple policies more than once as a primary driver, on each vehicle. So do not think just because they have a well known name that you will be treated fair. Take the time to read it, after all don't you want to know what you are paying for? Each policy is only as good as its coverage