No Start Condition

Now that we are getting into winter some of us find that are having trouble starting. An Engine needs four basic things to allow it to run. It requires Spark, Fuel, Compression and at the right Time. Older vehicles ( pre - 1986) had carburetors that would cause a vehicle to flood themselves in the winter. Now that technology has stepped into play there are mostly fuel injected vehicles on the road, give or take a few hybrids. The Majority of No starts are caused from battery failure . Even if the battery is heavily corroded or just a loose connection. The vehicles computer controls the fuel system and on the latest of vehicles controls the starter. Test your battery at every service. Keep your battery terminals clean. Make sure you have over a 1/4 tank of fuel all winter long.

Save Money with Maintenance

HAPPY NEW YEAR !!!!

Make it a new years resolution to keep up on your vehicle maintenance that will save you both time and money. Think of the down time when your sitting along side the road with a flat tire or stuck at the air port because your car won't start. I don't need to tell you how much calling the tow truck costs.

The best and most efficient method of knowing about your car and keeping track of it is through the owner's manual which provides complete information on how to go about it. You can inspect your car every time you enter it, or on a daily or weekly basis or at intervals specified in the manual.

Must do's : Change the engine oil every 3,000 miles. oh but the book says every 5,000.....ask your self this " how does a vehicle manufacturer make money??" By selling you a new car !!! They only need the vehicle to last as long as the warranty. You can have it last longer buy properly maintaining your vehicle and have less problems. Yes, there are vehicles on the road with over 500,000 miles on there engines!!!!!

Keep a close eye on your tires. Check the pressure at each oil change and look at the tread depth across the entire surface. Anything below 3/32" and you are looking for trouble .

Check your battery for corroded terminals and have it load tested at each oil change.

If you follow these basic maintenance tips you are looking to save time and money in this New Year and the next !!!!

CODE PO401 : Insufficient EGR Flow

The Exhaust Gas Re circulation (EGR) system is designed to reintroduce exhaust gas into the combustion chambers, thereby lowering combustion temperatures and reducing the formation of Oxides of Nitrogen (NOx). The amount of exhaust gas that is reintroduced into the combustion cycle is determined by several factors, such as: engine speed, engine vacuum, exhaust system back pressure, coolant temperature, throttle position. All EGR valves are vacuum operated. The EGR vacuum diagram for your particular vehicle is displayed on the Vehicle Emission Control Information (VECI) label. The EGR system is Differential Pressure Feedback EGR (DPFE) system, controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and composed of the following components: DPFE sensor (also referred to as the back pressure transducer), EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR) solenoid, EGR valve, and assorted hoses. The P0401 code means that OBD detected an insufficient amount of EGR. Symptoms There may be drive-ability issues such as pinging ( pre-ignition knock , similar to cheap gas) when the vehicles engine is under heavy load or the vehicle is climbing a steep grade. There may also be other symptoms. Causes A code P0401 most likely means one or more of the following has happened: The DPF (differential pressure) sensor is faulty and needs to be replaced There is a blockage in the EGR (most likely carbon buildup) The EGR valve is faulty The EGR valve may not be opening due to a lack of vacuum Possible Solutions In fixing this code, it is quite common for people to just replace the EGR valve only to have the OBD code return. The EGR valve is not always the cause. If you replace all 3 components the like is all but guaranteed to go away . Or you can test each component . Use a vacuum pump and pull the EGR valve open while monitoring engine RPM's. There should be a noticeable difference in RPM's with the EGR open Clean out the EGR valve to remove deposits Replace the DPF sensor Replace the EGR valve

Diagnosing Your Brakes

Brake problems vary greatly with the make and model of a car, the age of the car and other variables. If your car is experiencing brake problems, bring it to a mechanic. You may, however, be able to narrow down some of the possible problems yourself. Below are some general guidelines. Followed by some helpful troubleshooting hints.

1. Step off the brakes, with the car's engine turned off. A soft or mushy brake pedal indicates that you may be low on brake fluid, or may need to bleed your brakes.
2. If it is safe, drive the car at low speed, braking as needed. You may need new brake pads, or to clean the brakes, if they squeal.
3. In a clear area, step sharply on the brake pedal. If the brakes do not stop the car effectively, several things may be wrong, including worn pads, contaminated brake fluid or contaminated brake pads.
4. If the brakes pull the car to one side, you may need to adjust the brake's clearance, may have to replace the pads or rotors, or may have insufficient hydraulic pressure in one part of the brake system.
5. Begin driving forward slowly. If the brakes bind or drag, it may be due to grease on the pads or scored rotors. Visit a mechanic if you do not know how to fix brakes. Describe the car's performance to the mechanic in as much detail as you can. Check brake fluid regularly. If you have determined that your brakes are bad, avoid driving the car until they are fixed. Computerized brakes, which are standard in many cars, need to be fixed by a mechanic.

MAINTENANCE

Benefits of Proper Maintenance The automobile is a truly amazing machine. It is expected to function under a wide range of weather conditions and other adverse conditions, yet it often is subjected to careless hard driving and indifferent maintenance. Recommended service intervals are often ignored by the same vehicle owners that wouldn't let a week go by without vacuuming all the rugs in the house. Today the automobile is an integral part of our life. We have come to rely on the proper functioning of the family vehicle and seldom, if ever, make a time allowance in case the vehicle should fail to start. We expect it to start and move every time, and fortunately, most of the time it does. However, the rare instance that it doesn't, causes the owner to forget the thousands of times it started without a problem. The irony is that, chances are, the vehicle failed to start because of neglect. A periodic maintenance program such as the one in this book can keep the vehicle owner more aware of the condition of his or her vehicle and will save money in three important areas-fuel economy, emissions and performance.

Oxygen Sensors

OXYGEN (O2) SENSORS

General Information An Oxygen (O2) sensor is an input device used by the engine control computer to monitor the amount of oxygen in the exhaust gas stream. This information is used by the computer, along with other inputs, to fine-tune the air/fuel mixture so that the engine can run with the greatest efficiency in all conditions. The O2sensor sends this information to the computer in the form of a 100–900 millivolt (mV) reference signal, which is actually created by the O2sensor itself through chemical interactions between the sensor tip material (zirconium dioxide in almost all cases), the oxygen levels in the exhaust gas stream, and ambient atmosphere gas. At operating temperatures, approximately 1100°F (600°C), the element becomes a semiconductor. Essentially, through the differing levels of oxygen in the exhaust gas stream and in the surrounding atmosphere, the sensor creates a voltage signal which is directly and consistently related to the concentration of oxygen in the exhaust stream. Typically, a higher than normal amount of oxygen in the exhaust stream indicates that not all of the available oxygen was used in the combustion process, because there was not enough fuel (lean condition) present. Inversely, a lower than normal concentration of oxygen in the exhaust stream indicates that a large amount was used in the combustion process, because a larger than necessary amount of fuel was present (rich condition). Thus, the engine control computer can correct the amount of fuel introduced into the combustion chambers.

Since the control computer uses the O2sensor output voltage as an indication of the oxygen concentration, and the oxygen concentration directly affects O2sensor output, the signal voltage from the sensor to the computer fluctuates constantly. This fluctuation is caused by the nature of the interaction between the computer and the O2sensor, which follows a general pattern: detect, compare, compensate, detect, compare, compensate, etc. This means that when the computer detects a lean signal from the O2sensor, it compares the reading with known parameters stored within its memory. It calculates that there is too much oxygen present in the exhaust gases, so it compensates by adding more fuel to the air/fuel mixture. This, in turn, causes the O2sensor to send a rich signal to the computer, which then compares this new signal, and adjusts the air/fuel mixture again. This pattern constantly repeats itself: detect rich, compare, compensate lean, detect lean, compare, compensate rich, etc. Since the O2sensor fluctuates between rich and lean, and because the lean limit for sensor output is 100 mV and the rich limit is 900 mV, the proper voltage signal from a normally functioning O2sensor consistently fluctuates between 100–300 and 700–900 mV.

NOTE: The sensor voltage may never quite reach 100 or 900 mV, but it should fluctuate from at least below 300 mV to above 700 mV, and the mid-point of the fluctuations should be centered around 500 mV.

To improve O2sensor efficiency, newer O2sensors were designed with a built-in heating element, and were called Heated Oxygen (HO2) sensors. This heating element was incorporated into the sensor so that the sensor would reach optimal operating temperature quicker, meaning that the O2sensor output signal could be used by the engine control computer sooner. Because the sensor reaches optimal temperature quicker, modern vehicles enjoy improved driveability and fuel economy even before the engine reaches normal operating temperature.

On-Board Diagnostics second generation (OBD-II), an updated system based on the former OBD-I, calls for additional O2sensors to be used after the catalytic converter, so that catalytic converter efficiency can be measured by the vehicle's engine control computer. The O2sensors mounted in the exhaust system after the catalytic converters are not used to affect air/fuel mixture; they are used solely to monitor catalytic converter efficiency.

Won't shut off

Symptom = starter starts the car but will not turn off until battery cable is diconnected, when the battery is connected again starts without key Request = please if you can tell me what is wrong & give me detailed advise on how to fix it my self Response = Replace the Ignition switch. Assuming this happened before replacing the solenoid and thats why you replaced it. Here is the thing the solenoid sends power to the starter only when it receives a signal from the ignition switch. So you can take a meter to the start wire at the solenoid and see if it has a constant voltage. Un plug the start wire at the solenoid. If there is constant voltage at the start wire on the solenoid replace the ignition switch(NOT the key and tumbler). Now if you disconnect the start wire from the solenoid and it still starts on its own, then you have installed the solenoid or starter improperly and need to check for a crossed wire.

Front End Alignment

WHEEL ALIGNMENT If the tires are worn unevenly, if the vehicle is not stable on the highway or if the handling seems uneven in spirited driving, the wheel alignment should be checked. If an alignment problem is suspected, first check for improper tire inflation and other possible causes. These can be worn suspension or steering components, accident damage or even unmatched tires. If any worn or damaged components are found, they must be replaced before the wheels can be properly aligned. Wheel alignment requires very expensive equipment and involves minute adjustments which must be accurate; it should only be performed by a trained technician. Take your vehicle to a properly equipped shop. Following is a description of the alignment angles which are adjustable on most vehicles and how they affect vehicle handling. Although these angles can apply to both the front and rear wheels, usually only the front suspension is adjustable. CASTER Looking at a vehicle from the side, caster angle describes the steering axis rather than a wheel angle. The steering knuckle is attached to a control arm or strut at the top and a control arm at the bottom. The wheel pivots around the line between these points to steer the vehicle. When the upper point is tilted back, this is described as positive caster. Having a positive caster tends to make the wheels self-centering, increasing directional stability. Excessive positive caster makes the wheels hard to steer, while an uneven caster will cause a pull to one side. Overloading the vehicle or sagging rear springs will affect caster, as will raising the rear of the vehicle. If the rear of the vehicle is lower than normal, the caster becomes more positive. CAMBER Looking from the front of the vehicle, camber is the inward or outward tilt of the top of wheels. When the tops of the wheels are tilted in, this is negative camber; if they are tilted out, it is positive. In a turn, a slight amount of negative camber helps maximize contact of the tire with the road. However, too much negative camber compromises straight-line stability, increases bump steer and torque steer. TOE Looking down at the wheels from above the vehicle, toe angle is the distance between the front of the wheels, relative to the distance between the back of the wheels. If the wheels are closer at the front, they are said to be toed-in or to have negative toe. A small amount of negative toe enhances directional stability and provides a smoother ride on the highway.

Code P0171

I ENGINES CODE P0171 AND P1309 HOW DO I FIX THESE CODES. " Code PO1309 : Misfire Monitor Failure Description : When the misfire monitor is disabled,usually due to the input signal generated by the camshaft position sensor, by sensing the passage of teeth from the camshaft position wheel. Possible Causes : PCM(powertrain control module), Mass Air Flow Sensor, Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor, Crank Shaft Position Sensor, Camshaft Position Sensor. Code PO171 : System too lean (bank 1) Description : The adaptive fuel Strategy continuously monitors fuel delivery hardware. The test fails when the adaptive fuel tables reach a rich calibrated limit. Now that we have an Idea of what the codes mean , we need to narrow them down. More than likely the problem is causing both codes to set. Keeping this in mind, lets concentrate on Code PO1309. Of the possible causes listed above I see two Sensors that may throw up a lean code. I would look at the MAF Sensor first and then the Temp Sensor. You may find that if you remove the internal Sensor from the MAF Case that some debree has collected on the thin wire. If you find debree, use a Q-Tip to clean it. DO NOT USE CHEMICALS TO CLEAN IT. If no debree is found, try a Known Good MAF Sensor. Still no fix, move on to testing the rest of the Sensors on the list till you find the problem. Keep in mind that the check engine light will have to be cleared after you have fixed the problem.

Code P0301

" I see that the code is a Cylinder 1 misfire. But what exactly is this? " It is exactly what it says. The # 1 cylinder has a misfire. this can be cause by a few different things.

1. Fouled or damaged spark plug 2. Failed spark plug wire 3. Failed coil pack 4. Failed fuel injector 5 .The " not likely " bent valve 6. Bad gas, but usually will misfire on all cylinders 7. Loss of compression ( loose plug, crack head, blown head gasket )

First thing is to remove the plug examine it, if the electrode is not rounded then place it in the wire, let it rest against the block and crank it over.. see if it sparking. This rules out the coil pack , plug and wire unless they are damaged and arching . Examine closely. If in doubt , replace them . Remember the problem is only in cylinder # 1. See if the fuel injector is firing. Check compression in relationship to # 2 cylinder. More than likely you just need a good healthy tune up. Go ahead , its probably been a while anyway. After that, treat it to a nice fresh tank of High Octane.