OPERATION
The Secondary Air Injection (AIR) system is an electronically controlled system. The system diverts secondary air upstream to the exhaust manifold check valve or downstream to the rear section check valve and catalyst. The system will also dump secondary air into the atmosphere during some operating modes.
TESTING
Normally Closed Air Bypass Valve Functional Test
Disconnect the air supply hose at the valve.
Run the engine to normal operating temperature.
Disconnect the vacuum line and make sure vacuum is present. If no vacuum is present, remove or bypass any restrictors or delay valves in the vacuum line.
Run the engine at 1500 rpm with the vacuum line connected. Air pump supply air should be heard and felt at the valve outlet.
With the engine still at 1500 rpm, disconnect the vacuum line. Air at the outlet should shut off or dramatically decrease. Air pump supply air should now be felt or heard at the silencer ports.
If the valve doesn't pass each of these tests, replace it.
Normally Open Air Bypass Valve Functional Test
Disconnect the air supply hose at the valve.
Run the engine to normal operating temperature.
Disconnect the vacuum lines from the valve.
Run the engine at 1500 rpm with the vacuum lines disconnected. Air pump supply air should be heard and felt at the valve outlet.
Shut off the engine. Using a spare length of vacuum hose, connect the vacuum nipple of the valve to direct manifold vacuum.
Run the engine at 1500 rpm. Air at the outlet should shut off or dramatically decrease. Air pump supply air should now be felt or heard at the silencer ports.
With the engine still in this mode, cap the vacuum vent. Accelerate the engine to 2,000 rpm and suddenly release the throttle. A momentary interruption of air pump supply air should be felt at the valve outlet.
If the valve doesn't pass each of these tests, replace it. Reconnect all lines.
Air Control Valve Functional Test
Run the engine to normal operating temperature, then increase the speed to 1500 rpm.
Disconnect the air supply hose at the valve inlet and verify that there is airflow present.
Reconnect the air supply hose.
Disconnect both air supply hoses.
Disconnect the vacuum hose from the valve.
With the engine running at 1500 rpm, airflow should be felt and heard at the outlet on the side of the valve, with no airflow heard or felt at the outlet opposite the vacuum nipple.
Shut off the engine.
Using a spare piece of vacuum hose, connect direct manifold vacuum to the valve's vacuum fitting. Airflow should be heard and felt at the outlet opposite the vacuum nipple, and no airflow should be present at the other outlet.
If the valve is not functioning properly, replace it.
Air Supply Pump Functional Check
Check and, if necessary, adjust the belt tension. Press at the mid-point of the belt's longest straight run. You should be able to depress the belt about 1⁄2 in. (13mm) at most.
Run the engine to normal operating temperature and let it idle.
Disconnect the air supply hose from the bypass control valve. If the pump is operating properly, airflow should be felt at the pump outlet. The flow should increase as you increase the engine speed. The pump is not serviceable and should be replaced if it is not functioning properly.
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Friday, April 27, 2007
Secondary Air Injection Code P1411
OPERATION
The Secondary Air Injection (AIR) system is an electronically controlled system. The system diverts secondary air upstream to the exhaust manifold check valve or downstream to the rear section check valve and catalyst. The system will also dump secondary air into the atmosphere during some operating modes.
TESTING
Normally Closed Air Bypass Valve Functional Test
Disconnect the air supply hose at the valve.
Run the engine to normal operating temperature.
Disconnect the vacuum line and make sure vacuum is present. If no vacuum is present, remove or bypass any restrictors or delay valves in the vacuum line.
Run the engine at 1500 rpm with the vacuum line connected. Air pump supply air should be heard and felt at the valve outlet.
With the engine still at 1500 rpm, disconnect the vacuum line. Air at the outlet should shut off or dramatically decrease. Air pump supply air should now be felt or heard at the silencer ports.
If the valve doesn't pass each of these tests, replace it.
Normally Open Air Bypass Valve Functional Test
Disconnect the air supply hose at the valve.
Run the engine to normal operating temperature.
Disconnect the vacuum lines from the valve.
Run the engine at 1500 rpm with the vacuum lines disconnected. Air pump supply air should be heard and felt at the valve outlet.
Shut off the engine. Using a spare length of vacuum hose, connect the vacuum nipple of the valve to direct manifold vacuum.
Run the engine at 1500 rpm. Air at the outlet should shut off or dramatically decrease. Air pump supply air should now be felt or heard at the silencer ports.
With the engine still in this mode, cap the vacuum vent. Accelerate the engine to 2,000 rpm and suddenly release the throttle. A momentary interruption of air pump supply air should be felt at the valve outlet.
If the valve doesn't pass each of these tests, replace it. Reconnect all lines.
Air Control Valve Functional Test
Run the engine to normal operating temperature, then increase the speed to 1500 rpm.
Disconnect the air supply hose at the valve inlet and verify that there is airflow present.
Reconnect the air supply hose.
Disconnect both air supply hoses.
Disconnect the vacuum hose from the valve.
With the engine running at 1500 rpm, airflow should be felt and heard at the outlet on the side of the valve, with no airflow heard or felt at the outlet opposite the vacuum nipple.
Shut off the engine.
Using a spare piece of vacuum hose, connect direct manifold vacuum to the valve's vacuum fitting. Airflow should be heard and felt at the outlet opposite the vacuum nipple, and no airflow should be present at the other outlet.
If the valve is not functioning properly, replace it.
Air Supply Pump Functional Check
Check and, if necessary, adjust the belt tension. Press at the mid-point of the belt's longest straight run. You should be able to depress the belt about 1⁄2 in. (13mm) at most.
Run the engine to normal operating temperature and let it idle.
Disconnect the air supply hose from the bypass control valve. If the pump is operating properly, airflow should be felt at the pump outlet. The flow should increase as you increase the engine speed. The pump is not serviceable and should be replaced if it is not functioning properly.
Wednesday, April 04, 2007
BELTS AND HOSES
Your belts drive critical systems of your car, including your alternator which recharges your battery, your water pump which keeps your engine cool, your air conditioner which keeps you cool, and your power steering pump. If a belt breaks, the effects can range from the simple inconvenience of not having your air conditioning to leaving you stranded in traffic to overheating and ruining your engine.V-belts will typically last three years or 30,000 miles. Serpentine belts will go farther, lasting five years or 50,000 miles. Belts will sometimes show visible signs of age before they break, including cracking, fraying, and glazing. Modern belts often show no visible signs of deterioration before they break, however.
Like belts, hoses harden, split, or soften with age. Sometimes the aging is visible. Often, however, there are no outward signs of problems before a hose bursts or starts leaking. According to one study, internal corrosion caused by electrochemical reactions in the cooling system is the leading cause of hose failure. Hose manufacturers recommend replacing hoses every four years.
Many of the cars on the road today have timing belts. They keep the valves and pistons in your car in synch. These belts take the place of a timing chain. The advantage is that they are lighter and more fuel efficient. The drawback is that they wear out quicker. Like a fan belt, a timing belt needs to be replaced before it breaks. The timing belt needs to be replaced every 50,000-60,000 miles on most cars, but the exact interval depends on the make and model of your car.If you wait too long and your belt breaks while you are driving down the road, your engine loses its coordination. This can have horrible results. Your pistons may hit your valves, causing major damage to the head of your engine. It is common for repair bills to run $1000 to $2000 for this problem. Replacing your timing belt is one maintenance item you never want to skip.
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