VW P3801

VolksWagon Check Engine Light Code "19537 4C51 P3081 Engine temperature too low" That DTC is indicative of a missing thermostat, a stuck open thermostat, or a cooling system with 100% antifreeze. It is NOT associated with a defective ECT G62. When the coolant temperature is too low, that does not necessarily mean a sensor failure. Sounds like the sensor is telling you the truth. Watch the temperature on the scan tool as the engine warms up. Look for things that keep it from warming up. Things like radiator fans on all the time, straight anti-freeze, stuck open thermostat and so on. That is what it means. It means a system problem, not necessarily a component failure. More....

Brake Pad Break In Procedure

BRAKE PAD BEDDING IN PROCEDURE To ensure maximum performance and customer satisfaction, new brake pads must be bedded in upon installation. Correct bedding guarantees that new brake pads and new rotors work flawlessly together. In order to function optimally, organic brake pads must develop friction coal on its surface. This friction coal develops at a temperature of approximately 280°C (537°F). It is very important that this temperature is reached continuously and slowly. This gradual process generates temperatures that not only penetrate the surface of the brake discs and pads, but also distribute evenly through the whole disc and pad material. This is essential when using new brake discs, since the disc often shows signs of stress (due to the casting process and fast cooling) in the materials. A steady and careful warming and cooling process guarantees a good release of both materials. The bedding in/break in procedure should be done as follows: Drive at approx. 35 mph (60 kmh) for about 500 yards (solid front discs) to 800 yards (vented front discs) while slightly dragging the brakes (i.e. light brake pedal pressure). This process allows the brake temperature to slowly and evenly build up to 300°C (572°F). Now, if possible, drive about 2200 yards maintaining the same speed without braking. This will allow the pads and discs to cool down evenly. After this cool-down, perform a normal brake application from 35 mph to 0. No panic stops! Now, the friction surface has evenly developed friction coal, the pads have bonded with the disc surface, and tensions in the disc materials will have disappeared. Only trained master mechanics should perform this procedure before delivering the vehicle to its owner. Do not expect your customer to properly finish your brake job! This bedding process is only suitable for the front axle - not the rear. This is due to the brake force distribution of front and rear axles. In order to reach 300°C (527°F) on the rear pads you would have to drive several miles with dragging brakes. However, in that time the front brakes will be glowing red, overheating and thus destroying the front brakes. Final note – don’t forget to clean hubs and check the wheel bearings. Also, the brake fluid should be replaced at least every 2 years.

Bleeding Brake Systems

NON-ABS SYSTEMS When any part of the hydraulic system has been disconnected for repair or replacement, air may get into the lines and cause spongy pedal action (because air can be compressed and brake fluid cannot). To correct this condition, it is necessary to bleed the hydraulic system after it has been properly connected to be sure that all air is expelled from the brake cylinders and lines. When bleeding the brake system, bleed one brake cylinder at a time, beginning at the cylinder with the longest hydraulic line (farthest from the master cylinder) first. Keep the master cylinder reservoir filled with brake fluid during bleeding operation. Never use brake fluid that has been drained from the hydraulic system, no matter how clean it is. It will be necessary to centralize the pressure differential valve after a brake system failure has been corrected and the hydraulic system has been bled. The primary and secondary hydraulic brake systems are individual systems and are bled separately. During the entire bleeding operation, do not allow the reservoir to run dry. Keep the master cylinder reservoirs filled with brake fluid. Wheel Cylinders and Calipers Fig. 1: To bleed the front brakes, place one end of a clear hose on the bleeder screw and the other in a clear container of brake fluid Clean all dirt from around the master cylinder fill cap, remove the cap and fill the master cylinder with brake fluid until the level is within 1⁄4 in. (6mm) of the top of the edge of the reservoir. Clean off the bleeder screws at the wheel cylinders and calipers. Attach the length of rubber hose over the nozzle of the bleeder screw at the wheel to be done first. Place the other end of the hose in a glass jar, submerged in brake fluid. Open the bleed screw valve 1⁄2 – 3⁄4 turn. Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal. Close the bleeder screw valve and tell your assistant to allow the brake pedal to return slowly. Continue this pumping action to force any air out of the system. When bubbles cease to appear at the end of the bleeder hose, close the bleed valve and remove the hose. Check the master cylinder fluid level and add fluid accordingly. Do this after bleeding each wheel. Repeat the bleeding operation at the remaining 3 wheels, ending with the one closest to the master cylinder. Fill the master cylinder reservoir. Place the clear plastic hose over the wheel cylinder bleeder screw and the other in the clear container of brake fluid when bleeding the rear brakes Master Cylinder Fill the master cylinder reservoirs. Place absorbent rags under the fluid lines at the master cylinder. Have an assistant depress and hold the brake pedal. With the pedal held down, slowly crack open the hydraulic line fitting, allowing the air to escape. Close the fitting and have the pedal released. Repeat Steps 3 and 4 for each fitting until all the air is released.

Radial Tires, What does it mean ?

RADIAL The simple definition of a Radial type tire: The radial is a type of tire that is constructed with rubber coated, reinforcing steel cable belts that are assembled parallel and run from side to side, bead to bead at an angle of 90 degrees to the circumferential centerline of the tire. (As opposed to the 30 degree alternating application lengthwise as in bias ply tires). This makes the tire more flexible which reduces rolling resistance to improve fuel economy. Then numerous rubber coated steel belts are then constructed into the "crown" of the tire under the tread to form a strong stable two-stage unit. Performance and purpose of Radial tires Radial tires are the preferred tire of choice in most applications for several key reasons. The combination of steel stabilizing belts in the single-layer radial casing allows the tread and sidewall to act independently. The sidewall flexes more easily under the weight of the vehicle and its cargo, while the tank-track type tread provides even contact with the ground. Greater vertical deflection is achieved with radial tires. This is desirable because extreme flexing greatly increases resistance to punctures. To increase a radial tire's strength, larger diameter steel cables are used. Larger steel cables can help reduce punctures, tears and flats. Larger steel cables also help distribute heat, resulting in a cooler running tire and improving fuel economy. Unlike bias ply tires larger steel cables have little negative affect on performance. The parallel stabilizing steel belts of the radial minimize tread distortion. As the sidewalls flexes under load, the belts hold the tread firmly and evenly on the ground or object and thus minimizing tread scrub and greatly increasing tread life. When cornering the independent action of the tread and sidewalls keeps the tread flat on the road. This allows the tire to hold to its path. When offroad, the radial tire's stabilizing steel belt design aids in greater traction by holding the tread evenly over obstacles allowing the tread of the tire to have a better chance of finding traction.

Radial Tires, what does it mean ?

RADIAL The simple definition of a Radial type tire: The radial is a type of tire that is constructed with rubber coated, reinforcing steel cable belts that are assembled parallel and run from side to side, bead to bead at an angle of 90 degrees to the circumferential centerline of the tire. (As opposed to the 30 degree alternating application lengthwise as in bias ply tires). This makes the tire more flexible which reduces rolling resistance to improve fuel economy. Then numerous rubber coated steel belts are then constructed into the "crown" of the tire under the tread to form a strong stable two-stage unit. Performance and purpose of Radial tires Radial tires are the preferred tire of choice in most applications for several key reasons. The combination of steel stabilizing belts in the single-layer radial casing allows the tread and sidewall to act independently. The sidewall flexes more easily under the weight of the vehicle and its cargo, while the tank-track type tread provides even contact with the ground. Greater vertical deflection is achieved with radial tires. This is desirable because extreme flexing greatly increases resistance to punctures. To increase a radial tire's strength, larger diameter steel cables are used. Larger steel cables can help reduce punctures, tears and flats. Larger steel cables also help distribute heat, resulting in a cooler running tire and improving fuel economy. Unlike bias ply tires larger steel cables have little negative affect on performance. The parallel stabilizing steel belts of the radial minimize tread distortion. As the sidewalls flexes under load, the belts hold the tread firmly and evenly on the ground or object and thus minimizing tread scrub and greatly increasing tread life. When cornering the independent action of the tread and sidewalls keeps the tread flat on the road. This allows the tire to hold to its path. When offroad, the radial tire's stabilizing steel belt design aids in greater traction by holding the tread evenly over obstacles allowing the tread of the tire to have a better chance of finding traction.

No Start Condition

Now that we are getting into winter some of us find that are having trouble starting. An Engine needs four basic things to allow it to run. It requires Spark, Fuel, Compression and at the right Time. Older vehicles ( pre - 1986) had carburetors that would cause a vehicle to flood themselves in the winter. Now that technology has stepped into play there are mostly fuel injected vehicles on the road, give or take a few hybrids. The Majority of No starts are caused from battery failure . Even if the battery is heavily corroded or just a loose connection. The vehicles computer controls the fuel system and on the latest of vehicles controls the starter. Test your battery at every service. Keep your battery terminals clean. Make sure you have over a 1/4 tank of fuel all winter long.

Save Money with Maintenance

HAPPY NEW YEAR !!!!

Make it a new years resolution to keep up on your vehicle maintenance that will save you both time and money. Think of the down time when your sitting along side the road with a flat tire or stuck at the air port because your car won't start. I don't need to tell you how much calling the tow truck costs.

The best and most efficient method of knowing about your car and keeping track of it is through the owner's manual which provides complete information on how to go about it. You can inspect your car every time you enter it, or on a daily or weekly basis or at intervals specified in the manual.

Must do's : Change the engine oil every 3,000 miles. oh but the book says every 5,000.....ask your self this " how does a vehicle manufacturer make money??" By selling you a new car !!! They only need the vehicle to last as long as the warranty. You can have it last longer buy properly maintaining your vehicle and have less problems. Yes, there are vehicles on the road with over 500,000 miles on there engines!!!!!

Keep a close eye on your tires. Check the pressure at each oil change and look at the tread depth across the entire surface. Anything below 3/32" and you are looking for trouble .

Check your battery for corroded terminals and have it load tested at each oil change.

If you follow these basic maintenance tips you are looking to save time and money in this New Year and the next !!!!